^^ 


MODERN  METHODS  OF 
FORD  REPAIRING 


A  COMPLETE  manual  -for  the  Ford  repairman, 
•**>  explaining  the  use  of  all  the  up-to-date  tools 
and  shop  equipment  and  minutely  describing  the 
methods  of  performing  the  work  on  all  the  different 
mechanical  parts  of  the  car,  ;  ,  >  . 


By  ;'',-, 

J.HOWARD  PriVE  ' 


U.  P.  C.  Book  Company,  243-249  W.  39th  St.,  N.Y. 


ffyjvtreMvtty^^ 


Copyright  1920 

By 
U.  P.  C.  BOOK  COMPANY,  Inc. 


PREFACE 

THE  business  of  repairing  Fords  has  come  to  be  such  an  enormous  one  and 
open  to  such  competition  that  the  man  who  expects  to  make  a  success  of 
it  is  forced  to  use  the  most  up-to-the-minute  methods,  tools  and  machinery 
available  for  the  purpose.    This  book  is  designed  to  give  in  a  clear,  concise  and 
thorough  way  all  the  detail  operations  in  repairing  and  overhauling  the  Ford 
mechanical  units  using  the  best  and  quickest  methods  and  employing  the  tools 
and  machinery  that  will  save  time  and  labor  and  insure  jobs  as  nearly  perfect 
as  it  is  possible  to  get  out. 

Service  work  on  all  makes  of  cars  is  slowly  but  surely  turning  toward  fac- 
tory production  methods  and  this  is  more  true  of  Ford  service  than  of  any  other 
car.  Repairmen  are  realizing  that  to  "produce"  service  in  quantity  and  at  a 
low  figure  it  is  of  vital  importance  to  specialize  and  to  use  special  tools  and 
equipment.  The  "all  around"  mechanic  is  rapidly  giving  way  to  the  "motor" 
man  or  the  "rear  assembly"  man.  When  a  man  specializes  on  one  job,  he 
becomes  more  proficient,  does  the  job  quicker  and  also  does  it  better. 

With  the  use  of  modern  production  methods  and  special  tools,  Ford  service 
work  is  not  only  speeded  up  but  is  made  better.  The  repairs  are  standardized 

456692 


and  .the,  mechanic  is  less  liable  to  make  a  mistake  than  under  the  old  "monkey 
;aiid  hafiimei'"  method. 


In  the  preparation  of  this  jnaterial  the  writer  studied  the  methods  used 
in  the  Ford  factory  and  branches  in  the  manufacture  and  assembly  of  the  car 
in  the  first  place  and  then  observed  the  methods  in  general  use  in  the  largest 
and  best-equipped  Ford  repair  shops.  These  were  then  melted  together,  so  to 
speak,  and  the  result  is  given  on  the  pages  of  this  book.  There  is  no  mere 
theory  about  any  of  the  methods  used,  as  they  are  all  in  practical  use  in  Ford 
service  stations. 

J.  HOWARD  PILE. 
January,  1920. 


CHAPTER  I 
System  ,n  Handling  Ford  Service 7 

CHAPTER  II 

Labor    Operations    Covering    Repair 
Work  on  Model  T  Ford  Cars 12 

CHAPTER  III 
Removing  the  Engine  from  the  Car. .  25 

CHAPTER  IV 
Taking  Down  the  Engine 31 

CHAPTER  V 

Testing  and  Straightening  the  Crank- 
shaft     43 

CHAPTER  VI 
Rebabbitting  the  Cylinder  Block 46 

CHAPTER  VII 
Reboring  the  Cylinders 49 

CHAPTER  VIII 
Fitting  New  Pistons 54 


Table  of  Contents 

Page 


Page 

CHAPTER  IX 
Fitting  the  Piston  Pin 57 

CHAPTER  X 
Aligning  the  Connecting  Rod 59 

CHAPTER  XI 

Fitting  the  Piston  Rings  on  New  and 
Old  Pistons   .  .  63 


CHAPTER  XII 
Burning  In  the  Bearings 


68 


CHAPTER  XIII 
Testing  and  Overhauling  the  Magneto  81 

CHAPTER  XIV 
Overhauling  the  Transmission 96 

CHAPTER  XV 

Reseating   and   Grinding  Valves   and 
Other  Minor  Engine  Repairs 110 

CHAPTER  XVI 
The  Carbureter 116 


6  MODERN    METHODS 

Page 

CHAPTER  XVII 

Assembly   of   Engine    and   Transmis- 
sion     128 

CHAPTER  XVIII 
The  Ignition  System 139 

CHAPTER  XIX 
Testing  the  Engine 150 

CHAPTER  XX 
The  Radiator 162 

CHAPTER  XXI 
Engine   Numbers 170 

CHAPTER  XXII 
The  Front  Axle  Assembly 175 


OF    FORD    REPAIRING 

Page 

CHAPTER  XXIII 
The  Rear  Axle  Assembly 186 

CHAPTER  XXIV 
Miscellaneous    Parts 197 

CHAPTER  XXV 

Care  and  Repair  of  the  F.  A.  Starting 
and  Lighting  System 203 

CHAPTER  XXVI 

Reading  Wiring  Diagrams  with  Blue- 
prints of  25  Internal  and  External 
Circuits  Used  on  Ford  Cars .213 


CHAPTER  I 


System  in  Handling  Ford  Service 


SUCCESSFUL  Ford  service  requires 
system  in  routing  the  jobs.  A  care- 
ful record  of  each  job  from  the 
time  it  enters  the  shop  till  the  time  it 
leaves  and  is  paid  for  is  absolutely  es- 
sential. No  matter  how  large  or  how 
small  the  shop,  a  standard  Ford  repair 
order  must  be  made  out,  giving  the  de- 
tails of  the  work  that  is  to  be  done. 
This  is  signed  by  the  customer.  The 
standard  operations  are  written  on  the 
repair  order  by  name  and  the  price  put 
down.  All  that  is  necessary  thereafter 
is  to  enter  up  the  parts  used  in  effecting 
the  repairs. 

The  Repair  Order 

The  repair  order  is  part  of  the  system 
and  hooks  up  with  the  routing  of  the 
work,  so  a  perfect  understanding  of  it  is 
necessary.  There  are  three  sheets,  the 
original  (Fig.  1),  the  duplicate  which  is 


identical,  and  the  instruction  card  (Fig. 
4)o  Two  sheets  of  carbon  paper  dupli- 
cate what  is  written  on  the  original  on 
the  duplicate  and  instruction  card.  Fig. 
3  is  the  reverse  of  both  the  original 
and  duplicate  sheets,  illustrated  in  Fig.  1. 

The  original  is  filled  in  with  the  fol- 
lowing details  when  the  customer  brings 
the  car  in: 

Deliver  to  (owner's  or  driver's  name). 

Month,  day  and  year. 

Address. 

Telephone  number. 

Engine  number. 

License  number. 

Work  to  be  performed  (this  is  item- 
ized by  individual  operations  correspond- 
ing to  the  list  of  labor  operations). 

Prices  (for  labor  only). 

Owner's  or  driver's  signature  author- 
izing the  work. 

The   original    is   the   office    copy.     It 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


REPAIR  ORDER 


No.  5301 


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.Motor  No.  _ 

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TOTAL  AMOUNT 

ESTIMATES  ARE  FOR  LABOR  ONLY-MATERIAL  ADDITIONAL 


Ffjjr.  1 — The  original  repair  order  which  is  kept  in  the  office  until  all  the  work  has  been 
completed  on  the  car.  The  duplicate,  which  is  identical,  forms  the  customer's  invoice, 
and  this  is  kept  in  the  various  stockrooms  near  the  car,  all  materials  being  entered  up 

on  the  back  as  used 


SYSTEM  IN  HANDLING  FORD  SERVICE 


stays  in  the  office  till  the  duplicate  is 
returned  to  the  office  when  the  job  is 
finished. 

The  duplicate  follows  the  job  to  the 
stockroom  of  the  department  where  the 


on  the  back,  giving  the  part  number, 
quantity,  name,  price,  etc.,  of  every  part, 
piece  of  material  or  stock  used  on  the 
job.  The  entry  is  made  by  the  stock 
clerk  at  the  time  the  part  is  delivered 


O 


O 


Fig.  3 — Reverse  side  of  the  original  and  duplicate  shown  in  Fig.  1. 
These  reverses  are  identical 


car  is  being  repaired  and  when  the  car 
goes  to  another  department,  the  duplicate 
goes  to  the  stockroom  of  that  depart- 
ment. On  the  duplicate  an  entry  is  made 


from  the  stockroom  to  the  workman,  all 
requisitions  by  workmen  referring  to  the 
job  numbers.  When  the  job  is  finished, 
the  duplicate  is  returned  to  the  office,  the 


10 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


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ig,  4 — The  instruction  card  forms  the  triplicate.    It  is  on  heavy  manila 
card  and  goes  with  the  car  for  the  instruction  of  the  various  workmen 


SYSTEM  IN  HANDLING  FORD  SERVICE 


11 


prices  of  the  parts  added  up  and  trans- 
ferred to  the  front  of  the  sheet  opposite 
the  heading  "material."  The  addition  of 
"materials"  and  "labor"  will  be  the  to- 
tal amount  that  the  customer  is  to  pay. 

The  "materials"  items,  together  with 
the  total  and  the  addition  on  the  front 
are  transcribed  to  the  "original,"  which 
is  delivered  to  the  customer  when  he  pays 
the  bill  and  takes  the  car  away. 

The  instruction  card  will  have  dupli- 


cated on  it  the  work  to  be  done  on  the 
car.  There  are  two  stubs  which  are  de- 
tachable by  means  of  perforations,  one 
of  these  being  the  claim  check  which  is 
delivered  to  the  customer  to  identify  him 
when  he  calls  for  the  car  and  the  other 
is  the  "record"  which  is  put  in  a  small 
box  in  the  office  for  the  purpose  of  keep- 
ing track  of  the  job.  The  instruction 
card  goes  with  the  car  on  its  journeys 
through  the  shop. 


CHAPTER  II 


F 


Labor  Operations  Covering  Repair  Work  on  Model  T  Cars 

(Suggested  by  the  Ford  Motor  Company  as  a  Guide  for  Dealers  and  Garages) 
Segregation  of  Work 

ORD  service  work  is  highly  special- 
ized and   with  few  exceptions   any 


one  operation  is  the  same  on  every 
ear.    It  is  a  great  advantage,  therefore, 


be  given  unless  the  size  of  the  shop  is 
known,  but  the  schedule  given  below  of 
men  and  duties  for  a  force  of  12  men 
may  be  easily  enlarged  or  contracted  to 
suit  conditions. 


Service  Manager    - 


Cashier — Takes  care  of  office  work,  adding  up  bills,  receiving 

and  paying  out  cash,  etc. 

Tester — Receives  cars  at  door,  determines  troubles,  makes  put 
repair  orders  and  delivers  finished  cars  to  customers 
1  man  for  bearings,  pistons  and  cylinder  work 


Shop 
Foreman 


Stock  Clerk 
Porter 

to  segregate  the  work  in  the  shop  so  that 
certain  men  specialize  on  certain  jobs. 
No  actual  apportionment  of  the  work  can 


1  man  for  transmissions,  tearing  down  and  assembly 

1  radiator  man  for  soldering,  welding  and  brazing 

1  rear  axle  man 

1  painter  and  trimmer 

1  helper 


It  is  not  necessary  to  adhere  rigidly  to 
the  schedule,  because  when  work  slackens 
up  in  any  department,  one  or  more  men 


12 


LABOR    OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


13 


can  be  shifted  to  a  busier  department  or 
some  oi  the  men  can  be  set  to  work  re- 
claiming parts  and  salvaging  material. 

Arrangement  of  Departments 

As  fai  as  possible  the  departments  for 
the  different  classes  of  work  should  be 
separated  and  should  be  progressive  so 
that  the  car  keeps  moving  in  the  same 
direction  and  does  not  double  on  its 
tracks  from  the  time  it  enters  the  shop 
till  it  leaves.  If  the  building  has  a  num- 
ber of  floors,  a  good  routing  is  to  start 
at  the  top  floor  and  end  on  the  ground 
floor.  If  the  building  is  all  on  one  floor, 
start  at  one  end  and  finish  at  the  other. 

Disposition  of  Old  Material 

The  old  material  that  is  removed  from 
the  cars  during  the  various  repair  oper- 
ations is  all  saved.  Each  department 
should  be  provided  with  at  least  two 
large  boxes  mounted  on  castors.  One  of 
these  is  marked  SALVAGE  BOX  and  the 
other  JUNK  BOX.  These  boxes  are 
shown  in  Fig.  5. 

The  salvage  box  is  to  receive  all  parts 


which  are  fit  for  use  again  after  having 
some  work  done  on  them  or  having  some 
new  parts  put  on.  Brakerod  supports, 
fender  irons,  transmission  bands,  engine 
pans  and  other  items  which  do  not  WEAR 
OUT  in  use  but  simply  become  bent  or 
otherwise  unfit  for  present  use  can  be 
salvaged  by  straightening,  painting,  etc. 
The  following  list  of  labor  operations 
on  the  Ford  has  been  compiled  by  the 
Ford  Motor  Co.,  with  the  charges  that 
are  suggested  as  being  reasonable.  Much 
latitude  should  be  allowed,  however,  cir- 
cumstances making  it  necessary  to  in- 
crease these  charges  by  amounts  up  to 
25  per  cent.  Where  the  shop  is  a  large 
one  and  the  work  can  be  routed  through 
the  shop  along  with  a  similar  class  of 
work  it  is  perfectly  possible  to  make  a 
reasonable  profit  on  the  prices  as  listed. 
Where  the  shop  is  a  small  one,  with  one, 
two  or  three  workmen,  each  job  assumes 
the  character  of  an  individual  operation, 
one  man  does  all  classes  of  work  and  it 
is  impossible  to  maintain  the  speed  and 
departmentization  that  is  so  necessary  in 
getting  results. 


14 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


The  right  way  to  use  this  list  is  to 
make  a  careful  study  of  the  individual 


shop.     If  there  is  any  way  to  sp^ed  up 
the  performance  with  the  limited  amount 


Fig.  5 — The  junk  and  salvage  boxes  are  mounted  on  castors  and  have  hinged  lids 


operations  and  then  compare  the  prices 
with  the  average  time  records  for  the 
same  operations  as  performed  in  your 


of  help  available,  then  the  cost  of  doing 
the  job  may  be  cut  down  in  this  way,  but 
if  things  are  going  as  fast  as  it  is  pos- 


LABOR    OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


15 


sible  ftr  them  to  go,  then  the  only  other 
remedy  is  to  adjust  the  scale  to  take  care 
of  this  still  keeping  in  mind  that  compe- 
tition  vill  force  you  either  to  pare  the 
price  o-  take  business  away  from  you. 
Aim  to  ?ive  the  greatest  amount  of  serv- 
ice  possible  and  still  make  a  profit,  but 
do  not  co  business  without  a  profit. 

The  prices  given  in  the  list  were  in  ef- 
feet  Dec  1,  1919. 

Engine  Division 

The  following  charges  cover  work  on 
cars  driven  into  the  service  stations: 
Operation  Labor 

Number  Charges 

1.  Overhaul  engine  and  transmis- 

sion  ......................  $25.00 

2.  Overhaul  engine  only  ........   20.00 

3.  Overhaul  transmission  only,  or 

repair  or  replace  magneto.  .  .   14.00 

4.  Rebraze    crank    case    arms    or 

support    or    repair    leak    in 
case  by  taking  out  the  engine  12.00 

5.  Install  or  refit  one  piston   or 

one  connecting  rod  .........     4.50 

6.  Install  or  refit  two  or  more  pis- 

tons  or  connecting  rods  ,  ,  ,  ,  .     6.00 


7.  Tighten    one    connecting    rod 

bearing  ...................  $2.50 

8.  Tighten  two  or  more  connect- 

in£  rod  bearings  ..........     4.50 

9.  Replace     transmission     bands 

(Sedans    and    Coupes,    $1.00 

J     transmission  "  cover 
gasket  2  50 

n    Change  engine'  !.'.'!!.'  .'  .'!.'!  .'  .'  !     Q.5Q 
12.  Replace   cam   shaft,   and   refit 

^  Rep1™n  sea^arge!  !  '.  \  '.  \  I™ 

14.  Replace  cylinder  front  cover.  .  2.50 

15.  Grind  valves  and  clean  carbon  3.00 

16.  Remove    carbon    only.       (This 

operation  to  be  used  only 
when  customer  will  not  per- 
mit  grinding  of  valves)  ....  1.75 

17.  Repair     cylinder     head     bolts 

stripped  —  one  or  two  .......     2.50 

18.  Repair     cylinder     head     bolts 

stripped  under  dash  ........  5.00 

19.  Clean  out  oil  feed  pipe  ........  3.25 

20.  Replace  cylinder  head  gasket.-  1.00 

21.  Replace   radiator  or  all  three 

hose  connections  ............  60 

22.  Replace    one    hose    connection 

only  .......................  40 


16 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


23.  Replace    crank    shaft    starting 

pin,  or  pulley $1.50 

24.  Tighten  engine  to  frame 1.25 

25.  Clean    crank    case    or    install 

gasket  under  lower  cover  . .       .75 

26.  Replace    carburetor    or    mani- 

fold— or  repair  leak  in  mani- 
fold      75 

27.  Install  new  butterfly  spring. . .       .75 

28.  Overhaul   carburetor    1.50 

29.  Repair  leaky  carburetor 1.00 

30.  Replace       commutator       wire 

loom    60 

31.  Replace    commutator    case    or 

brush    50 

32.  Replace    commutator   pull   rod 

joint 60 

33.  Replace  or  rebush  fan  pulley 

assembly    60 

34.  Adjust  clutch  fingers  and  trans. 

bands    60 

35.  Adjust  trans,  bands  only 40 

36.  Stop  oil  leak  in  valve  doors 50 

37.  Install   trans,   band    springs — 

each 50 

38.  Replace  cylinder  water  jacket 

plug — one  or  more 40 

39.  Install     new     starting     crank 

handle   ,  A , , , , , , , , , , , 50 


Operations  5  and  15  combine^ 
on  one  order I 

Operations  6  and  15  combine^ 
on  one  order j. 

Operations  12  and  15  combined 
on  one  order  

Operations  15  and  17  combined 
one  one  order 

Operations  9  and  19  combined 

on  one  order /. .  5.00 

Operations  10  and  19  combined 

on  one  order  I . .  4.75 

Operations  30  and  31  combined 
on  one  order | . . . 

No  charge  for  operation!  10 
when  combined  with  opera- 
tion 9. 

No  charge  for  operation  16 
when  combined  with  opera- 
tions 5,  6  or  12. 

No  charge  for  operation  21 
when  combined  with  opera- 
tions 228  or  238. 

No  charge  for  operation  34 
when  combined  with  opera- 
tion 9. 

No  charge  for  operation  21 
when  combined  with  opera- 
tion 14. 


$6.00 
7.50 


6.50 


4.00 


.75 


LABOR  OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


17 


Parts  Brought  in  or  Shipped  in  for 
Repairs 

55B.  Overhaul  engine  and  trans- 
mission   $15.75 

56B.  Overhaul  engine  only 11.00 

57B.  Overhaul  transmission  only. .     4.00 

58B.  Rebore  cylinder  only 1.50 

59B.  Rebore  cylinder  only  includ- 
ing refitting  of  pistons 2.55 

BOB.  Rebore  and  rebabbitt  cylin- 
der including  fitting  of  pis- 
tons    3.75 

61B.  Rebabbitt  cylinder  only 1.50 

62B.  Rebabbitt   cylinder,   fit  crank 

shaft,  and  run-in 2.25 

63B.  Rebore    and    rebabbitt    cylin- 
der, including  fitting  of  pis- 
tons, crank  shaft,  connect- 
ing rods  and  running  in. . .     5.00 
64B.  Rebore   and    rebabbitt   cylin- 
der, fit  pistons,  valves,  push 
rods,  cam  shaft,  crank  shaft 
connecting    rods    and    run- 
in    7.50 

65B.  Rebore    and    fit    pistons    and 

valves    2.75 

66B.  Rebore  and  fit  pistons,  valves 
and  push  rods  and  straight- 
en and  fit  cam  shaft 3.50 


67B.  Fit  pistons,  crank  shaft  and 

run-in  (rebored  block)   ....   $1.25 

68B.  Rebush     three     transmission 

drums 1.50 

69B.  Rebush  transmission  drums — 

each    60 

70B.  Rebush     and     re-rivet     three 

triple   gear   assemblies 1.25 

71B.  Braze   crank   case   arms   and 

supports    3.00 

72B.  Repair  crank  case  drain  plug 

housing 2.00 

73B.  Overhaul  and  repair  car- 
buretor    1.00 

74B.  Disassemble  %",  9/16"  or  %" 
magnets  from  flywheel  and 
install  new  set 60 

75B.  Straighten  crank  shaft 1.00 

76B.  Straighten  cam  shaft 60 

77B.  Straighten  cam  shaft  and  fit 

bearings   1.00 

Operations  71B  and  72B  com- 
bined in  one  order 3.00 

Note :  —  When  the  cylinder  block  is 
brought  in  or  shipped  in  to  the  Dealer  for 
operations  Nos.  58B,  59B,  60B,  61B,  62B, 
65B,  or  66B,  and  it  is  necessary  to  send 
the  block  to  the  nearest  Branch  for  rebor- 


18 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


ing  or  rebabbitting,  the  Dealer  may  add 
$1.00  to  the  regular  charge  to  cover  ex- 
pense of  handling  the  transaction. 

Rear  System  Division 

The  following  charges  cover  work  on 
cars  driven  into  the  service  stations: 

96.  Overhaul    rear    axle    and    re- 

bush  springs  and  perches 
when  necessary $  6.00 

97.  Repair  or  replace  drive  shaft 

tube  4.00 

98.  Repair    or    replace    one    rear 

radius  rod    1.50 

99.  Replace   rear   spring  tie   bolt 

or  new  leaf  including  pol- 
ishing and  graphiting  of 
leaves  and  lining  up  of  body  3.00 

100.  Remove       front       and       rear 

springs,  polish  and  graph- 
ite leaves  only 3.00 

101.  Replace    spring    perches — one 

.75— both    1.25 

102.  Pad    rear    spring    to    line    up 

body  or  replace  rear  spring 

tie  bolt  only   1.50 

103.  Rebush  spring  and  perches . .  2.00 

104.  Install  universal  joint 2.75 


105.  Straighten   axle   shaft   (with- 

out removing  from  car) . . .  $1.50 

106.  Tighten  rear  radius  rod 75 

107.  Install    felt    and    steel    wash- 

ers— one      side      .75 — both 
sides  1.25 

108.  Install  brake  shoes  and  equal- 

ize emergency  brakes — one 
shoe  .75— both 1.25 

109.  Tighten     universal     ball     cap 

bolts 60 

110.  Install  or  tighten  rear  spring 

clips   60 

111.  Tighten  rear  hub   lock  nut — 

one   side   .40 — both  sides . .       .60 

112.  Fit   new   hub   keys- — one   side 

.50— both  sides 75 

113.  Replace    pull    rod    supports — 

— one      support      .40 — both 
supports 60 

114.  Replace  or  rebush  hub  brake 

cam — each  side   1.50 

115.  Replace  rear  axle  assembly..     2.50 

116.  Adjust    pull    rods    or    replace 

one 75 

117.  Straighten  rear  radius  rod  (in 

car)     75 

118.  Install    outer    roller    bearing 

--each  ...  1.25 


LABOR    OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


119.  Replace  rear  axle  shaft,  drive 
shaft  pinion,  or  drive  gear 
(no  other  work  necessary) .  $3.00 

Operations  96  and  99  com- 
bined on  one  order 7.25 

Operations  96  and  102  com- 
bined one  one  order. 6.50 

Operations  96  and  110  com- 
bined on  one  order ...  6.25 

The  following  extra  charges  should  be 
made  for  special  equipment: 

Axle  overhaul  when  neces- 
sary to  remove  special 
trunk  racks  or  truss  rods . .  1.00 

Axle  overhaul,  when  car  has 
shock  absorbers  and  owner 
will  not  permit  removal . .  1.00 

Axle  overhaul,  when  car  is 
equipped  with  special  hub 
brakes  1.50 

Parts  Brought  in  or  Shipped  in  for 
Repairs : 

140B.  Overhaul   rear   axle 4.00 

141B.  Straighten    or    repair    rear 

radius  rod 60 

142B.  Overhaul  differential  assem- 
bly with  shafts 1.50 

143B.  Remove   old   and   press   new- 

gear  on  axle-shaft — each,       .40 


Front  System  Division 

The  following  charges  cover  work  on 
cars  driven  into  the  service  stations: 

167.  Overhaul  front  axle,  including 

rebushing  of  springs  and 
perches  when  necessary, 
straightening  and  lining  up 
and  adjusting  of  wheels . . .  5.00 

168.  Rebush     spindle    bodies     and 

arms — each  side   1.50 

169.  Replace    or    straighten    front 

axle  (no  other  repairs) ....     2.50 

170.  Rebush  spindle  body — each . . .     1.00 

171.  Rebush  spindle  arm — each ...       .75 

172.  Replace  broken  off  radius  rod 

ball  cap  stud  2.50 

173.  Replace  front  spring  tie  bolt 

or  new  leaf,  including  pol- 
ishing and  graphiting  of 
leaves  2.50 

174.  Replace    front    spring    or   tie 

bolt  only  1.50 

175.  Install  or  tighten  front  spring 

clips— one  .40— both 60 

176.  Tighten  radius  rod  or  steering 

gear  ball  cap 60 

177.  Replace  radius  rod 75 

178.  Straighten    front    radius    rod 

and  line  up  front  assembly    1.00 


20 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


179.  Replace  spindle  arm  or  body 

and  line  up  assembly $  .75 

180.  Replace    radius   rod  ball   cap 

with  new  style 60 

181.  Tighten  all  sockets  and  joints 

of  front  end  1.25 

182.  Replace  or  straighten  spindle 

or  steering  gear  connecting 

rod    60 

Operations  167  and  172  com- 
bined on  one  order 6.50 

Operations  167  and  173  com- 
bined on  one  order 6.50 

Operations  167  and  208B  com- 
bined on  one  order 6.50 

The  following  extra  charges  should  be 
made  for  special  equipment: 

Overhauling  front  axle  when 
bumpers,  special  radius 
rods,  and  such  devices  are 
used  1.50 

Parts  Brought  in  or  Shipped  in  for 
Repairs: 

202B.  Straighten  front  axle 1.50 

203B.  Straighten  radius  rod 60 

204B.  Install  stud  in  radius  rod. . .       .75 
205B.  Rebush    spindle    body    and 

arm    75 

206B.  Rebush  spindle  arm 40 


207B.  Rebush  spindle  body $8.50 

208B.  Rethread  front  axle  by  drill- 
ing out  and  bushing   2.00 

Chassis  Division 

The  following  charges  cover  work  on 
cars  driven  into  the  service  stations: 

Front  End  and  Frame 

228.  Replace  front  cross  member. .     6.00 

229.  Replace   front   cross   member 

when  radiator  is  off 5.00 

230.  Straighten  front  cross  mem- 

ber (without  removing  from 
car)  3.00 

231.  Replace  rear  cross  member..     /7.50 

232.  Replace      side      member      or 

frame 20.00 

233.  Install   engine   pans — one   .75 

—both    1.25 

234.  Tighten  engine  pan 60 

235.  Tighten  crank  case  front  end 

bearing  cup   1.00 

236.  Install  hood  clips  or  springs 

on  hood  board — each  side. .       .60 

237.  Free  up  hand  brake  lever 60 

238.  Remove    radiator    to    replace 

radiator  stud  or  tighten 
fender  brackets  —  each  or 
both  ,  1.00 


LABOR    OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


21 


239.  Replace  starting  crank  ratchet 

pin    $  .60 

240.  Replace     starting     crank     or 

sleeve   1.25 

241.  Install  running  board  'bracket     2.50 

242.  Repair  hand  brake  lever  as- 

sembly including  replacing 

of  pawl   1.00 

243.  Replace     hand     brake     lever 

quadrant  without  removing 
running  board  shield 1.25 

244.  Tighten  all  bolts  and  nuts  on 

car    3.00 

245.  Tighten  body  bracket  bolts  . .     1.00 

246.  Install  tail  lamp  bracket 60 

Fenders  and  Running  Boards 

258.  Replace  one  fender  or  running 

board  (.25  extra  when  nec- 
essary to  straighten  iron  or 
bracket)  75 

259.  Tighten   all  fenders,   running 

boards,  shields  and  truss 
rods — one  only  .40 — 1.75 

260.  Remove     fender    or    running 

board  and  straighten 1.00 

261.  Replace  running  board  shield 

— one  $1.25 — two 2.00 

262.  Install  fender-to-shield  brack- 

et— each  ,  .60 


263.  Install  metal  tool  ibox $  .75 

264.  Replace  rear  fender  iron 75 

265.  Replace   truss   rods — one   rod 

.40— both  rods 60 

Dash 

276.  Replace  dash 4.50 

277.  Replace  dash  when  engine  is 

out     1.50 

278.  Tighten  dash  bracket  to  body 

and  dash  1.25 

279.  Replace  coil  and  install  Yale 

lock  

280.  Replace      coil,      install      new 

switch  on  coil  box  or  repair 
the  box 


1.50 


.60 


Steering  Gear 


291.  Overhaul  steering  gear  includ- 

ing replacing  of  quadrant 
or  gear  case  and  rebush- 
ing  of  bracket 3.50 

292.  Overhaul  steering  gear  when 

engine  is  out 2.50 

293.  Tighten  rivets  of  internal  gear 

case   1.25 

294.  Tighten  at  dash  and  rebush 

bracket 1.25 

295.  Replace  wheel  or  spider 60 


22 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


296.  Tighten  at  dash  and  post 

297.  Replace  steering  gear  assem- 

bly     

298.  Rebush  bracket  only 

299.  Tighten    steering    gear    case 

cover    

Muffler 

310.  Change  long  exhaust  pipe... 

311.  Replace  muffler   

312.  Repair  muffler   

313.  Repack     exhaust     pipe    pack 

nut   

Gas  Tank  and  Line 

323.  Repair  leak  in  touring  car  gas 

tank    

324.  Repair  leak  in  touring  car  gas 

tank     (when    necessary    to 
remove  body)    

325.  Clean  sediment  bulb,  gasoline 

feed  line  and   drain  carbu- 
retor    

Hood 

336.  Straighten  hood  

337.  Install  hood  leather 

Radiator 

348.  Overhaul    radiator    (requiring 
4  to  7  hours'  time) 


$  .75 

3.00 

.75 

.75 


.75 

.60 

1.00 

.60 
1.50 
6.00 

.75 


1.00 
.60 


7.50 


349.  Install  new  core  in  radiator..  $6.00 

350.  Repair  radiator,  solder  one  or 

two  tubes  and  replace  one 

or  both  sides 4.00 

351.  Solder   neck   or   top   tank   or 

repair     without     removing 
from  car    1.00 

352.  Solder  casting  to  lower  or  top 

tank  when  necessary  to  re- 
move radiator 1.50 

353.  Replace  broken  pet  cock 60 

Wheels 

365.  Change  hub,  rear  or  front 1.25 

366.  Replace  wheel  and  tire — each  .75 

367.  Adjust  and  dope  front  wheels  .60 

368.  Remove  front  wheels  and  re- 

place    bearing     parts — one 
wheel  .75— both" 1.25 

369.  Line   up   front  wheels    (when 

necessary  to  replace  spindle 

arm  .60) 40 

370.  Oil   and   dope   car    (including 

material)      (Graphiting 
springs  in  car  .75  extra)..       .75 

Paint  Division 

391.  Repaint  and  revarnish  chassis 

only 12.00 


LABOR    OPERATIONS    COVERING    REPAIR    WORK 


23 


392.  Repaint  and  revarnish  car — 

Touring  or  Runabout $25.00 

393.  Repaint  and  revarnish  Coupe- 

let    35.00 

394.  Repaint  and  revarnish  Sedan.   45.00 

395.  Repaint    and    revarnish    body 

only — Touring1  or  Runabout  15.00 

396.  Revarnish  body  only — Touring 

or  Runabout  (on  chassis) . .     5.00 

397.  Revarnish    body    only — Sedan 

or  Coupelet  (on  chassis) . . .   12.00 

398.  Refinish  deck  on  Torpedo  Run- 

about         1.50 

399.  Refinish  fenders,  dust  shields, 

running  boards,  wheels,   or 
hood  off  car,  each 75 

Body  Division 

411.  Tighten  all  doors 1.25 

412.  Install  new  lock — Touring  or 

Runabout — each 1.00 

413.  Replace  Town  Car  or   Sedan 

door  lock   1.50 

414.  Replace  top  irons — each 1.00 

415.  Install    new   leather    on   door 

panel— one  .60 — two 75 

416.  Install    new    leather    on   arm 

rest    1.00 

417.  Patch  section  of  upholstering    1.00 


418.  Re-upholster     Touring     body 

(using    new   material) ...  .$10.00 

419.  Re-upholster    Runabout   body 
(using  new  material)   6.00 

420.  Change  closed  body 8.00 

421.  Change  Touring  or  Runabout 

body   5.00 

422.  Take    dent    out    of   any   side 

panel    4.00 

423.  Take    dent    out   of    any    side 

panel  and  refinish 5.00 

424.  Take  dent  out  of  door 2.00 

425.  Take    dent   out   of    door    and 

refinish    3.00 

426.  Take  dent  out  of  rear  or  cor- 

ner panel  without  removing 
from  car  6.00 

427.  Take  dent  out  of  rear  or  cor- 

ner panel  and  refinish  with- 
out removing  from  car  ....   10.00 

428.  Take  dent  out  of  rear  or  cor- 

ner  panel    (when    removed 
from  car)    13.00 

429.  Take  dent  out  of  rear  or  cor- 

ner     panel      and      refinish 
(when  removed  from  car) .   16.00 

430.  Take  dent  out  of  Torpedo  deck 

and  refinish    2.00 

431.  Repair    front    or    rear    seat 

cushion  2.50 


24 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


432.  Replace    binding    on    one    or 

more  doors   $  .75 

433.  Put  on  new  trim  rail 2.50 

434.  Replace  door  hinge 75 

Top  and  Windshield  Division 

455.  Overhaul  Touring  Car  or  Tor- 

pedo top  including  recover- 
ing, lining-up  and  fitting  of 
curtains 7.50 

456.  Replace  top  deck  or  side  quar- 

ters— each  or  both   4.50 

457.  Line  up  and  dress  top 2.00 

458.  Install  and  fit  top 1.25 

459.  Repair  tear  in  top  up  to  4  in.  1.00 

460.  Replace  front  or  rear  bow — 

Touring  or  Runabout 2.50 

461.  Replace  center  bow — Touring 

or  Runabout — each 1.25 

462.  Patch  small  pin  holes 60 

463.  Patch  hole  in  curtain  or  re- 

place celluloid 60 

464.  Replace  back  curtain 1.50 

465.  Replace  celluloid  in  back  cur- 

tain         1.75 

466.  Refit  complete  set  of  side  cur- 

tains       1.50 

467.  Refit  one  side  curtain  .60 — two       .75 

468.  Replace     top     bow     socket — 

Touring  or  Runabout 1.25 


469.  Replace  windshield-^-and  line 

up  windshield  frame $1.00 

470.  Replace     windshield     glass — 

upper 60 

471.  Replace     windshield     glass — 

lower    1.00 

472.  Replace  hinge 60 

473.  Replace  or  tighten  dash  clips 

and  hinge  screws 50 

474.  Pack  windshield  glass  or  take 

out  rattle— each    1.00 

475.  Replace  windshield  bracket..     1.50 

476.  Repair  windshield  lower  frame 

— and  install  glass 1.75 

Lamp  and  Horn  Division 

502.  Replace     or     repair     electric 

headlight  switch 60 

503.  Straighten  damaged  headlamp     1.25 

504.  Take  dent  out  of  head  lamp 

door     frame     and     replace 
glass 75 

505.  Clean   up   and   repair   set   of 

oil  lamps 1.00 

506.  Install  electric  horn  and  wire     1.00 

507.  Install  electric  headlights  and 

wire    1.50 

508.  Install  new  parts  in  oil  lamps 

— each 60 

5*09.  Take  short-circuit  from  switch 

or  lamp  , 60 


CHAPTER  III 


Removing  the  Engine  from  the  Car 


IT  is  an  economy  of  time  for  a  man  and 
helper  to  work  together  on  this  job, 
the  man  doing  the  more  important 
things  and  the  helper  the  less  important. 
The  numbered  operations  in  plain  type 
are  to  be  performed  by  the  man  and  the 
lettered  operations  in  italics  by  the 
helper. 

A  parts  box  mounted  on  castors  and 
divided  into  compartments  is  provided  to 
receive  the  parts  of  the  engine  which  are 
to  be  used  again.  The  box  is  divided  into 
a  number  of  compartments  so  that  the 
parts  can  be  kept  separate.  If  the  box 
is  marked  with  the  job  number  and  is 
left  undisturbed  until  the  engine  is  as- 
sembled again,  there  will  be  little  chance 
of  the  parts  getting  lost  or  mislaid. 

A  list  of  parts  that  are  to  be  replaced 
with  new  ones  should  be  made  out  on  a 
card  as  the  old  parts  are  junked  or  sal- 
vaged. This  will  save  time  in  assembly 


as  all  the  parts  needed  can  be  secured 
from  the  stockroom  at  one  trip  instead 
of  making  a  number  of  trips  as  the  items 
are  needed. 

A->— Remove  the  hood. 

B — Drain  the  radiator  into  a  bucket. 
If  the  water  does  not  run  out  freely 
when  the  petcock  is  opened,  stick  a  wire 
up  through  the  opening  to  break  up  the 
•mud  and  sediment.  If  the  petcock  will  not 
turn  after  applying  reasonable  pressure, 
loosen  the  screw  a  half  turn  if  it  is  in 
position  to  make  this  possible  and  tap 
the  screw  lightly.  The  key  in  the  petcock 
is  tapered  and  this  tapping  will  loosen  it 
in  its  seat  so  that  it  can  be  turned. 

1 — Disconnect  the  four  wires  from  the 
spark  plugs. 

2 — Remove  the  cotter  pin  from  the 
timer  rod,  slip  it  out  and  unsnap  the 
timer  case  with  its  wires  in  place  and 
lay  it  aside  till  later. 


25 


26 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


C — Remove  th6  rubber  mat,  the  front 
cushion  and  the  three  floor  boards  from, 
the  driver's  compartment. 

3 — Disconnect  the  wire  from  the  mag- 
neto terminal. 

4 — Loosen  the  radiator  stay  rod  from 
the  radiator  with  a  pipe  wrench  and 
loosen  the  locknut  at  the  dash. 

5 — Disconnect  the  headlamp  wires. 

D — Drive  a  broad,  flat  screwdriver  or 
a  small  flat  cold  chisel  in  between  the 
frame  and  the  square  nuts  on  the  lower 
ends  of  the  radiator  stud  bolts  to  keep 
them  from  turning  while  the  nuts  are  re- 
moved from  the  top.  See  Fig.  6. 

E — Remove  the  cotter  pins  from  the 
tops  of  the  radiator  stud  bolts. 

6 — Unscrew  the  brass  nuts  with  a 
1&-in.  speed  wrench.  If  the  nuts  are  cor- 
roded fast,  it  will  be  necessary  to  start 
them  with  a  %-in.  open-end  wrench, 
turning  them  off  with  the  speed  wrench 
after  they  are  loosened  a  little. 

F — Take  off  the  brass  washers. 

The  radiator  is  now  ready  to  be  dis- 
connected from  the  engine, 


7 — Remove  the  two  cap  screws  from 
the  outlet  water  connection  with  a  7/16- 
in.  S.  A.  E.  end  wrench. 

8— Remove  the  two  cap  screws  from 
the  inlet  water  connection  with  a  short 
handled  7/16-in.  T-wrench. 

9 — Remove  the  radiator  by  lifting  it 
straight  off  the  studs.  The  hoses  and 
water  connections  to  the  cylinder  block 
will  come  off  with  the  radiator.  Hang 
the  two  copper-asbestos  gaskets  and  the 
leather  pads  from  under  the  radiator  on 
one  of  the  nails  on  the  side  of  the  parts 
box.  If  the  rubber  hoses  are  to  be  re- 
newed— 

G — Loosen  the  six  hose  clamps  with 
screwdriver  and  pair  of  pliers  and  cut 
the  old  hose  off  with  a  knife.  Junk  the 
hose  and  such  of  the  hose  clamps  as  are 
gone  or  unfit  for  use  again  and  put  the 
remainder  in  the  parts  box  together  with 
tJie  outlet  connection  pipe,  inlet  connec- 
tion and  outlet  connection. 

H — Remove  the  spark  plugs  with  the 
spark-plug  wrencJi, 

10 — Remove  the  throttle  rod  by  taking 


REMOVING    THE    ENGINE    FROM    THE    CAR 


27 


out  the  cotter  pins  at  both  ends  and  slip- 
ping the  ends  out  of  the  throttle  arm  and 
the  arm  on  the  steering  column. 

11 — Push  the  carbureter  dash  control 
up  out  of  the  way. 


Fig.  6 — The  lower  nut  of  the 
radiator  stud  is  kept  from 
turning  while  the  top  nut  is 
removed  by  driving  a  broad, 
flat  screwdriver  between  the 
nut  and  the  chassis  frame 


I — Turn  off  the  gasoline  at  the  tank. 

12 — Disconnect  the  gasoline  line  at  the 
carbureter  by  unscrewing  the  brass 
coupling  nut  with  a  pair  of  pliers  or  end 
wrench. 


13 — Remove  the  locking  wire  from  the 
crankcase  front-bearing  screws  and  start 
the  screws  out  with  a  7-16-in.  open-end 
wrench,  turning  them  out  with  a  7-16-in. 
speed  wrench  after  they  are  loose 
enough. 

/ — Remove  the  cotter  pins  from  the 
four  crankcase-arm  bolts,  two  in  the  side 
and  two  in  the  top. 

K — Remove  the  side  nuts  with  a  %-in. 
end  wrench. 

L — Remove  the  top  nuts  with  a  %-in. 
speed  wrench,  holding  the  bolts  with  an 
end  wrench  both  here  and  in  operation 
K. 

14 — Remove  the  four  nuts  from  the 
manifold  clamp  studs  with  a  %-in.  speed 
wrench. 

F — Take  off  the  brass  washers. 

The  radiator  is  now  ready  to  be  dis- 
connected from  the  engine. 

16 — Lift  off  the  intake  manifold  com- 
plete with  the  carbureter.  Slide  it 
straight  out  and  then  lift  up  to  avoid 
spoiling  the  copper  -  asbestos  gaskets. 
Hang  the  gaskets  on  a  nail  on  the  parts 
box. 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


17 — Lift  off  the  exhaust  manifold, 
pulling  the  pipe  straight  ahead  out  of 
the  muffler  head.  The  manifold  does  not 


Fig.  1 — This  is  a  cotter-pin  box 
made  of  wood  with  V-shaped  com- 
partments to  hold  the  different  size 
cotter  pins.  One  of  these  boxes  is 
placed  in  a  handy  position  near 
every  workman  who  has  need  for 
new  cotter  pins 

have  to  be  disconnected  from  the  exhaust 
pipe  and  the  pack  nut  does  not  have  to 
be  touched.  If  it  should  be  necessary  to 


separate  the  manifold  from  the  pipe,  the 
pack  nut  is  best  loosened  with  a  pack  nut 
solid  wrench  before  the  clamps  are  loos- 
ened, as  these  clamps  hold  the  manifold 
much  better  than  it  could  be  held  in  a 
vise  and  there  is  no  danger  of  cracking 
the  manifold  or  denting  the  pipe. 

M — Remove  the  cotter  pins  from,  the 
crankcase  bolts. 

18 — Loosen  those  bolts  which  clamp 
the  engine  pans.  This  is  done  with  a 
jew  wrench  or  a  speeder  on  the  nut  and 
a  knee  wrench  on  the  head  of.  the  bolt 
underneath.  Either  of  these  tools  allows 
the  bolts  to  be  loosened  or  taken  out  by 
one  man.  See  operations  under  "Taking 
the  engine  down"  for  more  complete  de- 
tails on  this  operation. 

19 — Remove  the  stove  bolts  and  nuts 
that  hold  the  engine  pans  to  the  frame 
and  then  take  out  the  pans.  T.ie  right 
pan  is  to  be  placed  in  the  parts  box,  but 
the  left  pan  cannot  be  taken  off  entirely 
unless  the  steering-arm  connection  is 
taken  off,  but  it  can  be  slid  down  out  of 
the  way  and  left  hanging  on  the  steering 
arm. 


REMOVING  THE  ENGINE  FROM  THE  CAR 


29 


.  g  —  This  illustrates  the 
method  of  lifting  the  engine  out 
of  the  chassis  with  the  special 
tongs.  The  correct  position  for 
the  tongs  to  properly  balance 
the  engine  and  transmission  is 
shown 


30 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


20 — Remove  the  two  bolts,  two  nuts 
and  two  cap  screws  that  hold  the  uni- 
versal-joint ball  housing  to  the  crank- 
case,  first  taking  out  the  locking  wire. 
Use  a  %-in.  end  wrench  or  long  speed 
wrench  from  the  rear  of  the  car. 

N — Take  out  the  two  cap  screws  that 
hold  the  front-radius-rod  ball  cap  to  the 
engine. 

This  breaks  the  last  connection  be- 
tween the  engine  and  chassis  and  the 
engine  is  now  ready  to  be  taken  out. 
But  the  dash  must  first  be  loosened  to 
allow  the  crankcase  arms  to  come  for- 


ward. This  is  done  by  removing  the 
bolts  from  the  angle  irons. 

There  are  several  methods  of  lifting 
the  engine  out  of  the  frame,  the  best  one 
being  with  a  pair  of  tongs  and  a  chain 
hoist. 

A  pair  of  tongs  grips  the  cylinder 
block  at  a  point  between  the  third  and 
fourth  cylinders.  The  tongs  are  hung 
from  a  chain  hoist  or  tackle  and  will 
grip  the  engine  without  danger  of  falling 
as  the  heavier  the  weight,  the  harder  the 
tongs  grip.  This  is  shown  in  Fig.  8. 


CHAPTER  IV 


Taking  Down  the  Engine 


FOR  rapid  work  on  the  engine,  both 
in  taking  down  and  in  assembling, 
an  engine  stand  must  be  used.  Just 
how  many  and  what  kind  of  stands  to 
use  will  depend  largely  on  the  volume 
of  work  to  be  done  in  the  shop.  The 
simplest  and  cheapest  engine  stands  are 
constructed  of  wood  and  are  made  in  two 
styles,  one  holding  the  engine  right  side 
up  and  the  other  holding  it  upside  down. 
These  are  shown  in  Figs.  9  and  10.  A 
metal  engine  stand  which  is  lighter  is 
shown  in  Fig.  lie  These  stands  are  for 
assembly  and  taking  down  only  and  there 
is  no  means  of  fastening  the  engine  to 
the  stand.  These  stands  should  be  pro- 
vided with  castors  so  that  the  whole  as- 
sembly can  be  easily  moved  about  by 
one  man  or  a  helper. 

After  taking  the  engine  out  of  the 
car  wtih  the  tongs  (Fig.  15)  and  chain 
hoist,  it  is  set  on  one  of  the  stands 


shown  in  Figs.  9  or  11,  and  the  work  of 
taking  down  starts. 

1 — Drain  the  oil  into  a  pail  by  taking 
out  the  drain  plug.  The  gasket  should 
be  renewed  as  it  is  hard  to  get  an  old  one 
tight,  so  this  one  can  be  junked.  Put  the 
plug  back  in  the  hole  after  the  oil  is  all 
out  and  screw  it  in  far  enough  so  that 
it  will  not  lose. 

2— Take  all  the  cotter  pins  out  of  the 
crankcase  bolts  and  transmission  case 
bolts.  They  are  to  be  junked. 

3 — Remove  the  fan  shaft  bracket  by 
taking  out  the  cotter  pin  at  the  back  end 
of  the  bolt,  taking  off  the  locknut  and 
screwing  out  the  long  bolt. 

4— Take  off  the  fan  belt. 

5 — Remove  the  timer  from  the  cam- 
shaft. 

6 — Remove  the  timing  gear  case  by 
taking  out  the  cap  screws. 

7 — Loosen  the  reverse,  low  speed  and 


31 


32 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 

w — 

2Q" 

<•»•*-»  •   K 

19 


Fig.  9— Wooden  engine  stand  for  holding  the  assembled  engine  in  its  natural  position 


TAKING    DOWN    THE    ENGINE 

FLAT 


33 


TANGLE  IRON 
i*  PLATS 


Fig.  10 — Wooden  engine  stand  for  holding  the  assembled  engine  upside  down 
for  easy  removal  of  the  crankcase  and  subsequent  work  on  the  bearings  and 
connecting  rods.  The  head  is  removed  from  the  engine  before  transferring  it 

to  this  stand 


34 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  11 — A  metal 
engine  stand  made 
from  iron  pipe 
welded  at  the 
joints.  It  answers 
the  same  purpose 
as  the  wooden  one 
shown  in  Fig.  9 
but  it  is  lighter  in 
weight 


TAKING    DOWN    THE    ENGINE 


35 


brake  adjustments  on  the  transmission. 

8 — 'Hold  the  boltheads  underneath  the 
transmission  case  with  a  %-in.  open  end 
wrench  or  a  knee  wrench  and  turn  the 
nuts  off  with  a  %-in.  speed  wrench.  A 
jew  socket  wrench  may  be  used  and  one 
is  shown  in  Fig.  14. 

9 — 'Remove  the  transmission  cover,  the 
pedals  coming  off  .with  it. 

10 — [Loosen  the  cylinder-head  bolts 
with  a  7/16-in.  end  wrench. 

11— Turn  the  bolts  out  with  a  7/16-in. 
speed  wrench. 

12— Lift  off  the  cylinder  head.  If  it 
sticks,  it  can  .be  started  loose  by  cau- 
tiously slipping  the  point  of  a  screw- 
driver between  the  head  and  the  block 
and  turning  or  prying  until  the  joint 
loosens.  It  is  then  lifted  off  by  catch- 
ing a  finger  of  each  hand  in  the  spark- 
plug holes  of  cylinders  1  and  4. 

13 — Hang  the  copper-asbestos  cylin- 
der-head gasket  on  a  nail  if  it  is  in  fair 
shape  to  be  used  again,  otherwise  put  it 
in  the  junk  box. 

14 — Remove  the  nuts  from  the  valve- 


caver  studs  with  a  %-in,  speed  wrench. 

15 — Remove  the  valve  covers. 

16 — Put  the  nuts  back  on  the  studs  to 
prevent  their  getting  lost. 

17 — Mark  the  valve  heads  with  a  cen- 
ter punch,  starting  with  the  front  No.  1 
to  the  back  No.  8. 

18 — Raise  the  valve  springs  one  at  a 
time  with  the  valve  lifter  and  pull  out 
the  pins.  The  pins  can  best  be  taken 
out  with  a  light  pair  of  pliers  with  long 
noses.  This  is  quicker  and  easier  than 
using  the  fingers. 

19 — Lift  out  the  valves  by  the  heads. 

20 — Pull  out  the  springs  and  cup 
washers. 

21 — Turn  the  engine  upside  down  and 
set  it  on  the  stand  shown  in  Fig.  10. 

22 — Hold  the  crankcase  nuts  with  a 
%-in.  open-end  wrench  or  knee  wrench. 

23— Turn  out  the  bolts  with  a  %-in. 
speed  wrench.  (See  Fig.  13.)  The  jew 
socket  wrench  shown  in  Fig.  14  may  also 
be  used  for  this  purpose. 

24- — Remove  the  crankcase. 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  12 — Horizontal  and  vertical 
cylinder  block  clamps  mounted 
on  a  bench.  For  bearing  work 
the  clamp  to  the  right  had  best 
be  turned  around  so  that  the  workman  can  stand  at 
the  end  of  the  bench.  The  way  it  is  mounted  here  is 
for  valve  work  and  other  work  to  be  done  to  the  head 
of  the  block.  The  clamp  to  the  left  is  suitable  for 
fitting  the  main  bearings 


TAKING    DOWN    THE    ENGINE 


37 


Fig.  13 — In  using  a  speeder  of  any 
kind,  greater  speed  can  be  obtained 
by  holding  the  right  hand  on  the 
crank  and  the  left  hand  just  below 
the  crank  and  making  both  hands 
move.  This  just  doubles  the  speed 
obtained  by  holding  the  right  hand 
on  the  crank  and  the  left  hand 
on  top,  because  the  "stroke"  is  only 
half  as  much 


Fig.  14 — Jew    socket    wrench   for   removing    the 

crankcase  bolts.     This  method  is  even  faster  than 

the  knee  wrench  and  speeder  as  the  spring  holds 

the  lower  socket  up  against  the  bolt  head 


38 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


25  —  Remove  the  three 
brake  bands  by  slipping 
them  back  off  the  drums. 

26  —  Take  out  the  wire 
that  locks  the  flywheel 
bolts. 

27  —  Remove   the   fly- 
wheel  with   a   flywheel 
wrench. 

28  —  The  transmission 
will  now  come  off  and 
it  is    to    be    laid  aside 
until  it  is  ready  to  be 
disassembled  further. 

29  —  Remove  the  four 
bolts  that  hold  the  field 
coil    assembly    to    the 
block. 


Fig.  15  —  This  is  a  de- 
tailed drawing  of  the 
engine  -  lifting  tongs, 
showing  all  the  dimen- 
sions. The  use  of  these 
tongs  was  described  and 
illustrated  in  Chapter 
III 


Fig.  16— Re- 
moving the 
era nkcas e 
bolts  with  a 
knee  wrench 
and  speeder 


TAKING    DOWN    THE    ENGINE  39 

30— Lift  off  the  coil  assembly. 
31 — Remove  the  oil  pipe. 

32 — The  engine  block,  now  containing  the 
crankshaft,  connecting  rods,  pistons  and  cam- 
shaft, is  washed  with  kerosene  to  remove  all  the 
oil  and  dirt. 

33 — Place  the  block  in  a  stand  shown  in  Fig.  17. 

34 — Turn  the  block  in  the  stand  so  that  the 
cylinders  are  horizontal,  then  latch  the  stand  in 
this  position. 

35 — Remove  the  %-in.  cap  screws  that  keep  the 
camshaft  bearings  from  turning. 

36 — Remove  the  timer  roller  locknut  and  roller. 

37 — Pull  the  camshaft  out  through  the  front  of 
the  engine  in  one  unit  with  the  gear-wheel. 

38 — Mark  the  pistons  on  top  with  a  center 
punch,  1,  2,  3  and  4. 

39 — Mark  the  main-bearing  caps  in  the  same 
way  at  the  front  ends,  1,  2  and  3. 

40 — Mark  the  connecting-rod  bearing  caps  on 
the  camshaft  side,  1,  2,  3  and  4. 


40 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


TAKING    DOWN    THE    ENGINE 


41 


Fig.  18 — Cylinder  block  stand  for  bolting  to  the 
'•bench.  This  holds  the  block  in  a  horizontal  posi- 
tion for  work  on  the  bearings,  pistons,  etc.  The 
handle  operates  an  eccentric  cam  which  locks  the 
block  to  the  stand 


41 — Remove  the  cotters 
from  the  connecting  -  rod 
bolts. 

42 — Remove  the  connecting- 
rod  bolts,  starting  them  with 
an  L-wrench  and  turning 
them  out  with  a  speeder. 

43 — Reassemble  the  caps  to 
the  rods  with  the  bolts. 

44 — Push  the  pistons  out 
through  the  top  of  the  cylin- 
der block. 

45 — Lay  the  pistons  on  the 
bench  on  their  heads. 

46 — Remove  the  cotter  pins 
from  the  main-bearing  bolts. 

47— Hold  the  heads  of  the 
main-bearing  bolts  from  turn- 
ing while  the  nuts  are  taken 
off.  These  front  and  center 
bolt  heads  are  square,  and  the 
rear  heads  are  round  with 
one  side  milled  off.  The  nuts 
are  hexagon.  Use  speeders 
on  the  lower  ends. 

48 — Lift  out  the  crank- 
shaft. 


42 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


There  is  no  better  place  to  practice 
economy  than  in  tearing  down  the  engine 
where  nearly  all  the  work  can  be  done  by 
boys  or  helpers.  They  can  soon  be  taught 
to  use  the  speeders  and  can  take  nuts  off 
quite  as  quickly  as  more  experienced  and 
higher  priced  men.  This  leaves  the  bet- 
ter grade  mechanics  available  for  work 
that  requires  more  judgment  and  skill. 


Routing  and  dividing  the  work  spells 
success  or  failure  and  it  is  often  possible 
for  one  good  mechanic  to  superintend  the 
work  of  several  helpers  and  at  the  same 
time  list  and  tag  the  parts  of  the  dif- 
ferent engines  so  that  the  new  parts  can 
be  ordered  from  stock.  Every  minute 
lost  is  expense  added  to  the  jobs  and  the 
more  time  is  lost,  the  higher  the  job  will 
come. 


CHAPTER  V 


Testing  and  Straightening  the  Crankshaft 


BEFORE  fitting  the  main  and  con- 
necting-rod bearings  to  the  crank- 
shaft it  is  necessary  to  test  the 
crankshaft  to  find  out  whether  the  shaft 
is  bent  or  sprung.  No  matter  how  care- 
fully or  how  well  the  bearings  are  fitted, 
if  the  crankshaft  is  out  of  line,  it  is  only 
a  matter  of  time  when  the  same  old  bear- 
ing trouble  will  appear  and  the  more  the 
shaft  is  out  of  line  the  quicker  the  bear- 
ings will  go. 

For  straightening  and  testing,  a  com- 
bination tool  shown  in  Fig.  19  is  used. 
This  tool  has  a  bar  in  front  to  which  are 
fitted  two  sliding  centers. 

1 — Place  the  crankshaft  between  these 
centers,  sliding  one  or  the  other  to  the 
shaft  till  it  is  held  firmly. 

2 — A  multiplying  indicator  (see  Fig. 
19 A)  is  placed  with  the  base  on  the 
block  of  the  press  and  the  plunger  of  the 


indicator  resting  lightly  on  the  center 
bearing  of  the  shaft. 

3— Turn  the  shaft  around  slowly,  keep- 
ing your  eye  on  the  needle.  A  variation 
of  .002  in.  is  permissible,  but  more  than 
this  indicates  that  the  shaft  needs 
straightening.  The  high  side  of  the 
shaft  is  marked  with  a  piece  of  chalk. 

4 — A  bent  shaft  is  straightened  in  a 
straightening  press  which  forms  the  rear 
part  of  the  tool  shown  in  Fig.  19.  The 
shaft  is  laid  across  the  two  lugs  with 
the  chalked  or  high  side  up. 

5 — 'Pressure  is  applied  to  this  point 
by  setting  down  on  the  screw  and  the 
shaft  is  tested  again. 

6 — This  operation  is  repeated  until  the 
needle  of  the  indicator  shows  a  variation 
of  not  more  than  .002  in. 

7_A  shaft  that  is  much  out  of  line 
should  be  tested  also  on  the  two  end 


43 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


X.  Fig.   19a  —  This gage     as  a 
Fig.   19— Crankshaft  straightening  press  and   testing  plunger  that  records  any  up 
machine.    The  shaft  is  caught  between  the  centers  and  and  down  motion  on  the  dial, 
tested  with  the  gage  shown  in  the  figure  to  the  right        which  can  be  set  to  zero 


TESTING   AND    STRAIGHTENING  THE  CRANKSHAFT  45 

bearings  after  straightening  as  there  is  9 — If  the  main  bearing  surfaces  are 

a  possibility  of  throwing  these  out  of  true,  the  crankpins  are  bound  to  be  true, 

line  when  bringing  the  center  bearing  in  Even  a  new  shaft  from  stock  should  be 

line.  tested  for  alignment  as  there  is  a  pos- 

8 — A  shaft  that  shows  true  on  the  cen-  sibility    of    its    having    received    rough 

ter  bearing  before  straightening  will  be  usage  at  some  point  in  its  travels  from 

true  on  the  end  bearing,  the  factory  to  you. 


CHAPTER  VI 
Rebabbitting  the  Cylinder  Block 


IP  the  babbitt  in  the  cylinder  block  is 
loose  or  much  worn,  the  block  will  have 
to  be  rebabbitted.     This  may  be  done 
by  sending  the  block  to  the  nearest  Ford 
branch  or  it  can  be  done  with  a  babbitt- 
ing jig  as  follows: 

1 — Hold  the  block  on  the  engine  stand 
so  that  it  is  bottom  side  up  and  the 
cylinders  as  nearly  perpendicular  as  pos- 
sible. 

2— Cut  out  the  old  babbitt  metal,  tak- 
ing care  to  clean  out  the  holes  which 
key  the  babbitt  to  the  block  and  also  the 
oil  holes. 

3— 'Clamp  the  babbitting  jig  (Fig.  20) 
in  position  with  the  camshaft  centering 
pins  in  the  camshaft  bearings.  This 
gives  the  correct  gear  distance  between 
the  camshaft  and  the  crankshaft  so  that 
the  gears  will  mesh  properly. 

4 — Turn  the  eccentric  locks  up  against 
the  bearings  to  prevent  leakage  of  bab- 
bitt. 


46 


5 — Melt  the  babbitt  in  a  ladle.  To  pro- 
duce a  satisfactory  bearing,  use  the  best 
grade  of  babbitt,  melting  about  5  Ib.  in 
a  10-lb.  ladle. 

6 — It  should  be  heated  till  it  scorches  a 
pine  stick  but  does  not  set  it  on  fire.  If 
it  sets  it  on  fire,  it  is  too  hot,  the  metal 
has  been  burned  and  should  be  discarded. 

7 — Stir  the  metal  with  the  stick  and 
skim  off  the  dross. 

8 — Pour  the  metal  quickly  but  steadily 
into  the  molds. 

9 — Needless  to  say  the  molds  should  be 
absolutely  clean,  dry  and  free  from  oil 
and  grease.  A  trace  of  moisture  would 
be  turned  to  steam  by  the  hot  metal  and 
this  would  forcibly  expel  the  molten 
metal,  necessitating  the  removal  of  the 
jig,  cleaning  the  bits  of  metal  and  start- 
ing all  over  again,  not  to  mention  the 
possibility  of  injury  to  the  operator. 
This  cannot  happen  in  a  perfectly  dry 
mold.  Oil  or  grease  may  cause  some- 


REBABBITTING  THE  CYLINDER  BLOCK 


47 


Fig.  20 — The  rebabbitting  jig  set  in  position  on  the  block.   The  correct  distance 
between  the  camshaft  and  crankshaft  is  secured  by  the  lugs  which  fit  into  the 

camshaft  bearings 


48 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


what  the  same  trouble  and  make  blow 
holes  in  the  bearing.  It  is  best  to  pre- 
heat the  portion  of  the  block  around  the 
bearings  with  a  blow  torch  or  gas  torch 
and  also  heat  the  jig  as  this  will  make  a 
smoother  job. 

10— If  the  metal  is  too  cold,  it  will  not 
get  into  the  corners  of  the  mold  and  it 
will  not  hug  closely  around  the  shaft. 

11 — After  the  metal  has  cooled  off 
enough  to  set,  remove  the  jig  and  file  off 
any  fins  that  have  been  formed.  The 
babbitt  should  be  flat  across  with  the 
iron  seat  that  the  cap  rests  on. 

12 — If  the  babbitt  has  been  well  done, 
the  metal  at  the  right  temperature,  the 
casting  preheated  and  it  flows  up  smooth- 
ly around  the  shaft  there  should  be  no 
need  to  ream  the  bearings  before  burning 
in.  However,  a  more  satisfactory  job 
will  result  if  the  bearings  are  reamed  or 


bored  with  a  special  jig  or  reamer,  of 
which  there  are  several  excellent  makes 
on  the  market. 

13 — Rough  scrape  the  bearings  to  fit 
the  crankshaft  endwise,  being  careful  not 
to  remove  too  much  metal.  There  must 
be  no  endplay  to  the  crankshaft. 

14 — The  bearings  are  now  ready  to 
burn  in. 

If  no  other  operations  are  necessary, 
the  preparations  for  burning-in  can  be 
started  at  once,  but  if  the  cylinders  are 
to  be  rebored,  the  reboring  should  be  com- 
pleted before  the  bearing  work  is  star|ted 
because  it  is  not  necessary  to  disassemble 
the  bearings  after  they  have  been  burned 
in.  The  overhauling  and  assembly  of  the 
pistons  should  also  be  completed  before 
starting  to  burn  in  the  bearings.  In  other 
words,  the  burning-in  goes  along  with 
the  assembly  operation, 


CHAPTER  VII 
Reboring  the  Cylinders 


can  be  rebored  by  a 
number  of  different  methods.  The 
quickest  way  is  by  the  use  of  a 
boring  mill  which  is  specially  set  or  spe 
cially  constructed  for  the  Ford  engine. 
Such  a  machine  is  quite  expensive,  how- 
ever, and  only  the  larger  service  stations 
would  find  it  profitable  to  own  and  oper- 
ate one.  * 

There  are  several  very  excellent  small- 
er tools  on  the  market  at  the  present 
time  which  are  really  greatly  modified 
reamers  especially  designed  for  the  pur- 
pose of  boring  out  cylinders.  These 
operate  by  clamping  a  guide  to  the  top 
of  the  cylinder  block.  Through  this  guide 
extends  the  shaft  which  has  a  cutter 
head  on  the  lower  end.  The  cutters  are 
adjustable  so  that  the  cylinder  can  be 
bored  to  fit  the  standard  oversize  pistons 
and  the  cutter  head  is  fed  'by  a  screw  on 
the  shaft  which  turns  in  a  nut  or  thread- 
ed hole  in  the  clamp.  Some  of  the  types 


49 


are  shown  in  Fig.  21.  No  specific  in- 
structions can  be  given  for  operating  the 
tools  as  they  vary  in  mechanical  design. 
The  following  operations  cover  the  use 
of  any  one  of  the  tools: 

1 — Examine  the  bore  of  each  cylinder 
carefully  to  decide  how  muc  oversize 
the  bore  will  have  to  <be.  The  standards 
are: 

No.  3021  (piston)  3%  in.  diameter 
(standard  size) 

No.  3021-C  (piston)  .0025  in.  oversize 

No.  3021-D  (piston)  .03125  in.  oversize 

No.  3021-E  (piston)  .033  in.  oversize 

The    bore    should   be    measured    at   a 

number  of  different  places  with  an  inside 

micrometer  and  the  cylinder  bored  to  the 

next  largest    standard    oversize    unless 

there  are  scores  and  scratches,  in  which 

case  the  sizes  will  be  larger  still.     The 

method  of  using  the  inside  micrometer 

for  this  purpose  is  shown  in  Fig.  22.    If 

the  block  has  already  been  rebored  to  the 


50 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


largest  oversize,  it  will  have  to  be  dis- 
carded and  replaced  .by  a  new  one,  as 
there  is  a  chance  of  running  into  a  blow 
Jhole  or  getting  the  metal  of  the  cylinder 


wall  too  thin  at  places  and  not  only  this, 
but  it  would  be  necessary  to  make  up 
special  pistons  and  rings  which  would 


Fig.  21-A 


Fig.  21-B 


Fig.  21 — There  are  a  number  of  types  of  cylinder  boring  tools,  two  of  which  are 
shown  here  and  one  on  the  next  page 


REBORING    THE    CYLINDERS 


51 


Fig.  21-C — Another  type  of  reboring  tool. 


most  likely  cost  more  than  the  fitting  of 
a  new  block. 

2— Set  the  cutters  on  the  Coring  tool  to 
the  exact  oversize  desired,  using  an  out- 
side micrometer.  The  method  is  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  23. 

3 — Clean  off  the  top  of  the  cylinder 
block,  scraping  off  all  the  dirt  and 
pieces  of  gasket  with  a  putty  knife.  This 
will  allow  the  clamp  to  sit  down  true  and 
flat  on  the  block  so  that  the  cutters  will 
cut  a  surface  exactly  at  right  angles  to 
the  top  of  the  cylinder  block.  Theoreti- 
cally the  clamp  does  not  actually  guide 
the  direction  of  the  cutters,  but  any  side 
thrust  caused  by  the  clamp  not  being 
set  down  true  is  bound  to  cause  more 
pressure  on  one  side  than  the  other. 
Therefore  it  is  best  to  have  the  clamp 
true. 

4 — Clean  out  the  cylinder  bore,  remov- 
ing all  oil,  grease  and  dirt. 

5 — Clamp  the  cylinder  block  firmly  in 
place  in  such  a  position  that  the  work- 
man will  find  it  convenient  and  easy  to 
turn  the  handle.  It  is  generally  found 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Fig.  22 — Measuring  the  bore  with  a  micrometer 


convenient  to  have  some  means 
of  clamping  the  block  directly  on 
the  floor  or  on  a  stand  a  few 
inches  high.  This  enables  the 
workman  to  stand  in  an  upright 
position. 

6 — Put  the  clamp  in  place.  On 
some  boring  tools  the  cutter  cen- 
ters itself  in  the  cylinder  bore 
by  means  of  a  lead  ring.  In 
such  a  case  it  is  only  necessary 
to  insert  the  lead  ring  in  the 
cylinder  and  then  bolt  the  clamp 
fast  to  the  top  of  the  block. 
Other  makes  require  centering 
by  hand  and  this  must  be  done 
very  carefully  to  insure  a  true 
bore. 

7 — Set  all  the  clamp  bolts 
down  good  and  tight  and  be  sure 
that  they  are  all  equally  set. 
One  or  two  loose  bolts  may 
throw  the  clamp  out  of  line  or 
allow  it  to  slip,  which  would  be 
fatal  to  a  true  bore. 


REBORING    THE    CYLINDERS 


53 


Fig.  23 — Setting  the  cutters  with  an  out- 
side micrometer 


8 — Turn  the  handle  of  the  bar  which 
rotates  the  cutters  and  also  feeds  the 
cutters  into  the  cylinder.  The  cutters 
should  be  fed  clear  through  the  cylinder. 

9 — Repeat  the  operation  on  the  other 
cylinders. 

10 — Remove  all  the  chips  and  cuttings, 
first  by  blowing  out  with  compressed 
air,  then  by  washing  with  gasoline  or 
kerosene. 

If  the  cylinders  are  not  scored  and  are 
very  little  out  of  round,  they  may  be 
lapped  true,  as  described  in  Chapter 
VIII.  As  a  rule,  however,  it  is  cheaper 
and  quicker  to  rebore  and  fit  new  pistons 
and  rings  than  to  lap. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
Fitting  New  Pistons 


IF  the  cylinders  have  been  rebored,  the 
new  oversize  pistons  should  fit  into  the 
cylinders  very  closely  but  should  not 
stick.  Ordinarily  lapping  is  not  resorted 
to  in  Ford  work  because  the  pistons  are 
very  accurately  sized  and  if  the  cylinder 
reboring  has  been  accurately  done,  there 
is  no  need  for  it.  It  simply  adds  to  the 
expense  of  the  overhaul  operation  with- 
out any  appreciable  benefit.  In  extreme 
cases  where  the  bore  is  not  quite  up  to 
size  or  where  oversize  pistons  are  to  be 
fitted  to  old  cylinders  without  reboring, 
the  pistons  may  be  lapped  in  if  they  fit 
too  closely.  In  any  case  an  extra  charge 
should  be  made  for  lapping,  over  and 
above  the  regular  charges,  otherwise  a 
loss  may  be  sustained  on  the  operation. 
This  is  the  procedure  if  lapping  is 
deemed  necessary: 

1— Take  a  Ford  piston  which  is  larger 
than  the  diameter  of  the  cylinder  to  be 
lapped  and  turn  down  the  head  to  the 


Fig.  24 — An  old  piston  slit  to  make 
a  cylinder  lap 


54 


FITTING    NEW    PISTONS 


55 


diameter  of  the  cylinder,  leaving  the 
skirt  full  size.  See  Fig.  24. 

2 — Slit  the  skirt  diagonally  with  a 
hack  saw. 

3 — Make  a  handle  of  1-in.  iron  pipe 
and  fittings  as  shown  in  Fig.  25. 

4 — Smear  the  lap  with  a  small  amount 
of  fine  grinding  compound.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  use  a  large  amount  and  an 
excess  will  simply  be  wasted  and  will  run 
down  the  walls,  getting  over  everything. 

5 — The  proper  lapping  motion  is  a 
combined  twist  and  up-and-down  stroke 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  cylin- 
der. The  lap  should  be  turned  from  time 
to  time  to  bring  new  surfaces  into  con- 
tact. 

6 — When  the  cylinder  has  been  lapped 
so  that  the  new  piston  will  enter  the 
cylinder  and  slide  clear  through  without 
binding,  the  lapping  is  finished. 

7 — Coat  the  new  piston  with  a  mixture 
of  ground  glass  and  oil  and  transfer  the 
lapping  handle  from  the  slit  piston  to 
the  new  one, 


Fig.  25  — A 
handle  made 
up  of  pipe  fit- 
tings is  used 
to  operate  the 
cylinder  lap 
shown  in  Fig. 
24.  The  han- 
dle should  be 
'made  long 
enough  so  that 
the  operator 
will  assume  an 
easy  position. 


56 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


8 — Lap  each  piston  into  the  cylinder 
which  it  is  to  occupy. 

9 — The  lapping  should  be  continued 
until  the  piston  when  dry  and  clean  may 
be  easily  moved  through  the  entire 
length  of  the  stroke.  It  should  not  bind 
when  moved  around. 


10 — The  clearance  between  pistons  and 
cylinders  should  be  between  .003  and 
.004  in.  for  cast  iron  pistons.  Alloy  pis- 
tons require  about  twice  this  clearance. 

If  the  difference  in  size  is  not  too  great 
it  is  not  necessary  to  use  the  slit  piston 
and  the  new  piston  can  be  lapped  right 
in. 


CHAPTER  IX 
Fitting  the  Piston  Pin 


JF  there  is  lost  motion  between  the  pis- 
ton pin  and  the  bronze  bushings  in  the 
piston   bosses,   the   bushings,   or  per- 
haps both  bushings  and  pin  will  have  to 
be  renewed.    If  the  pin  is  worn,  the  wear 
can  be  easily  seen  or  it  can  be  deter- 
mined with  a  micrometer. 

1 — Set  the  piston  on  a  jig  shown  in 


fig.  27 — This  piston-pin  bushing 
driver  is  turned  out  of  a  solid  piece 
of  steel. 


Fig.  26,  while  driving  the  bushings  out. 
2 — Drive  out  the  bushings  with  a  tool 


Fig.  26 — This  stand  holds  the  piston 
while    the    bushings    are   driven   out. 


57 


58 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


shown  in  Fig.  27.  This  is  made  with  the 
shaft  a  little  less  in  diameter  than  the 
diameter  of  the  piston  pin  and  the  diam- 
eter of  the  collar  a  trifle  less  than  the 
outside  diameter  of  the  bushing.  It  Is 


gimilar  tool  and  jig  can  be  advantageous- 
ly used. 

4 — Drive  in  the  new  bushings  with  the 
same  tool  and  jig. 

5 — Ream  the  bushings  to  the  correct 


Fig.  28 — The  piston~pin  bushing  reamer 


preferable  that  the  whole  tool  be  made 
in  pne  piece,  turned  down  to  size. 
3 — If  an  arbor  press   is  available,  a 


size    with    the    piston    bushing    reamer 
shown  in  Fig.  28. 


CHAPTER  X 
Aligning  the  Connecting  Rod 


THE  two  holes  in  the  connecting  rod 
must  be  parallel  both  ways  to  in- 
sure  perfect  operation  of  the  engine. 
Twisted  rods  cause  a  great  deal  of  trouble, 


ing  and  straightening  jig  used  and 
recommended  by  the  Ford  Motor  Co.  is 
shown  in  Fig.  31.  This  jig  is  bolted  to 
the  bench  on  a  block  so  that  it  is  about 


Fig,  29  —  Detailed  drawing  of  the  connecting-rod  bending  tool 

rapid  wear  and  noisy  engines.  All  rods, 
new  and  old,  should  be  tested  before  as- 
sembling  the  rod  in  the  piston.  A  test- 

59 


on  a  level  with  the  workman's  eye. 

1  —  Put  the  larger  of  the  two  arbors 
through  one  side  of  the  frame  of  the  jig. 


60 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


2 — Slack  the  connecting-rod  bolts  a 
trifle  to  allow  the  arbor  to  go  through 
the  bearing. 

3 — Slide  the  arbor  through  the  bearing 


for  twist.  If  light  can  be  seen  under  one 
side  in  either  case,  the  rod  must  be  bent 
until  the  small  arbor  rests  evenly  down 
on  all  four  test  surfaces. 


SOFT    METAL 
LINING 


Fig,  30 — Three  types  of  piston  vise,  two  to  be  attached  to  the  bench  and  one  to  be 

used  in  a  regular  vise 


and  through  the  other  side  of  the  jig 
frame. 

4 — Tighten  the  bolts. 

5 — Clamp  the  small  arbor  in  the  up* 
per  hole  with  the  small  clamp. 

6 — Rest  the  small  arbor  first  against 
the  top  test  surface  to  test  for  parallel- 
ism, then  against  the  lower  set  to  test 


7— The  bending  is  done  with  the  bend- 
ing iron  shown  in  Fig.  29. 

8 — The  connecting  rod  is  now  assem- 
bled to  the  piston  with  the  piston  pin. 

9 — The  piston  is  clamped  in  a  special 
piston  vise  to  prevent  injury  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  piston,  Three  types  are 
shown  in  Fig-.  30.  Two  of  these  are  in- 


ALIGNING   THE    CONNECTING    ROD 


61 


tended  to  be  fastened  to  the 
bench  with  a  hole  for  the  con- 
necting rod  to  drop  through 
when  the  piston  is  clamped  right 
side  up  for  working  on  the 
piston  rings,  and  the  other  type 
fits  in  a  regular  machinist's  vise. 
The  faces  are  lined  with  babbitt 
or  soft  metal  to  prevent  injury 
to  the  piston  or  rings. 

10 — Push  the  piston  pin 
through  the  bushings  and  upper 
hole  in  the  connecting  rod. 

11 — Center  the  piston  pin  so 
that  it  will  not  extend  to  the 
outside  of  the  piston  when  the 
rod  is  slid  sidewise  to  touch 
either  boss. 

12 — Tighten  the  piston  -  pin 
clamp  screw. 

13 — Insert  and  spread  the  cot- 
ter pin. 

Fig.    31  —  The    connecting  -  rod 

alignment  jig  is  set  on  a  line 

with  the  workman's  eye 


62 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


After  the  rods  have  been  straightened, 
the  utmost  care  should  be  used  not  to 
bend  them  again.  The  bolts  must  not  be 
tightened  when  the  rod  is  held  in  a  regu- 
lar vise. 

The  connecting  rod  should  swing  freely 
in  the  piston  but  should  not  have  any 
lost  motion  up-and-down.  It  is  very  easy 
to  confuse  side  motion  with  up-and-down 


motion,  especially  if  the  piston  pin  is 
well  oiled.  The  connecting  rod  should  be 
grasped  firmly  in  the  hand  to  make  the 
Rebabbitting  connecting  rods  has  not 
been  largely  practiced  so  far  unless  the 
shop  is  a  very  large  one  or  is  out  of  close 
touch  with  a  Ford  branch,  but  there  are 
several  excellent  jigs  on  the  market  at 
the  present  time, 


CHAPTER  XI 


Fitting  the  Piston  Rings  on  New  and  Old  Pistons 


PISTON  rings  can  be  slipped  on  and 
off  the  pistons  by  using  any  one  of 
a  variety  of  methods,  but  the  piston 
ring  expander  shown  in  Fig.  32  is  the 
quickest  and  easiest  to  operate.  If  the 
piston  is  new: 

1 — Fit  each  ring  to  the  groove  and 
to  the  cylinder  that  it  is  to  occupy. 
Fig.  33  shows  the  method  of  fitting  the 
rings  to  the  pistons.  Work  the  ring 
around  the  groove.  It  should  fit  freely 
all  the  way  round. 

2 — If  there  are  any  high  spots,  they 
are  removed  by  rubbing  the  ring  on  a 
piece  of  emery  cloth  mounted  on  a  flat 
board  as  shown  in  Fig.  34  or  on  a  surface 
plate  with  grinding  compound  on  it. 
The  fit  should  be  free  but  not  too  free. 
The  rings  must  not  be  mixed  after  fitting-. 

Note — All  rings  now  made  by  the 
Ford  Motor  Co.  are  slightly  tapered  on 
the  outside  to  prevent  pumping  oil  up 


into  the  combustion  chamber.  The  small 
diameter  goes  to  the  top.  The  edge  with 
the  smaller  diameter  is  marked  on  the 
inside  by  a  light  cold  chisel  mark  as 
shown  in  Fig.  35.  This  chisel  mark  must 
go  to  the  top  of  the  piston. 

3 — The  ends  of  the  rings  are  now  filed 
down  so  that  the  rings  will  fit  into  the 
cylinder. 

4 — A  piston  without  rings  is  placed 
in  the  cylinder. 

5 — 'Push  one  ring  down  above  it. 

6 — Raise  the  piston  to  square  the  ring 
in  the  cylinder. 

7-^File  the  end  of  the  ring  till  the 
clearance  between  the  ends  is  about  .004 
in.  or  a  little  more  than  the  thickness  of 
the  paper  that  this  is  printed  on. 

8 — Assemble  the  rings  on  the  pistons 
with  the  chisel  mark  up. 

9 — Where  old  pistons  are  used,  the 
/ing  grooves  are  first  cleaned  out,  re- 


63 


64 


MODERN    METHODS    OP   FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  33— Fitting  the 
rings   to  the  piston. 


Fig.  32 — Piston  ring 
removing    tool. 


FITTING    THE    PISTON    RINGS 


65 


Fig.   34— Grinding   down   the   ring   edges. 
moving  all  accumulations  of  carbon.     A 


.       CHlSfL    MARK  ON 
>    INSIDE  OF.RING 


W> 
the 


35—  This    chisel   mark   on 
e  piston  ring  goes  to  the  top 


from  an  old  piston  ring  or  can 
be  forged  from  tool  steel  so  that 
it  will  retain  its  edge  longer. 

10  —  New  rings  are  fitted  the 
same  as  in  the  case  of  a  new 
piston. 


quick  and  easy  way  to  do  this  is  with  a 
tool  shown  in  Fig,  36,    This  can  be  made 


In  using  such  a  tool  or  any 
other  means  of  cleaning  out  the  piston 
grooves,  it  is  very  essential  that  the  sides 
of  the  grooves  be  kept  unscratched  because 


66 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


FORD   PISTON    RING 
TO  A    CHISEL 


Fig.   36—  Tool 

for      cleaning 

piston  ring 

groove 


\ 


every  scratch  or  cut  will 
allow  a*  little  of  the  com- 
pression to  leak  in  back  and 
around  the  ring.  The  tool 
shown,  if  made  of  cast 
iron,  the  same  as  the  piston 
material,  is  less  likely  to 
damage  the  piston  than  a 
tool  made  of  hardened  steel 
such  as  a  file  or  screwdriver. 
It  is  also  very  important 
that  the  carbon  be  removed 
from  the  corners  of  the 
grooves.  It  is  useless  to  re- 
move the  carbon  from  the 
center  and  then  leave  it  in 
the  corners,  because  this 
will  prevent  the  freedom  of 
movement  of  the  piston  ring 
which  is  so  necessary  to  se- 
cure good  piston  ring  action. 
Carbon  on  the  back  of  the 
ring  should  also  be  removed 
and  the  same  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  scratch  the 
sides  of  the  ring. 


FITTING   THE    PISTON   RINGS 


67 


The  foregoing  method  treats  of  the 
individual  fitting  of  rings.  Standard 
rings  are  also  put  out  in  the  same  stand- 
ard oversizes  as  the  pistons  so  that  it  is 
not  necessary  to  file  the  ends  of  the  rings 
at  all.  Where  the  cylinder  is  rebored  to 
a  standard  oversize  and  a  new  oversize 


piston  fitted,  the  same  oversize  rings  can 
be  used,  this  saving  a  great  deal  of  time 
in  fitting  and  also  insuring  an  accurate 
fit  at  the  ends. 

Of  course  when  a  piston  is  lapped  in  to 
an  odd  size,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
file  the  ring  ends  to  fit. 


CHAPTER  XII 
Burning  in  the  Bearings 


THE  operation  of  burning  in  the 
bearings  on  the  Ford  consists  es- 
sentially in  setting  up  the  caps  very 
tight  and  running  the  shaft  in  the  bear- 
ings without  oil  or  lubricant  of  any 
kind.  After  running  this  way  for  a  few 
minutes,  the  friction  of  the  shaft  against 
the  bearing  melts  the  skin  of  the  babbitt 
next  to  the  shaft  and  the  babbitt  forms 
itself  into  a  perfect  fit  around  the  shaft 
without  further  manipulation.  Here  is 
a  comparison  of  the  time  and  money  ex- 
pended in  fitting  bearings  by  burning 
them  in  and  scraping  them  in  by  hand. 
Burning-in: 

Time    (including  fitting  caps,  putting 
on  machine,   taking  off,   putting  in 

piston,  etc 1%  hr. 

Bearing  surface  secured    90-95% 

Hand  scraping: 
Time   (including  fitting  caps,  putting 


in  pistons,  etc.)   7-10  hr. 

Bearing  surface  secured 40-60% 

Almost  twice  as  good  a  job  is  pro- 
duced at  a  saving  of  from  E  to  8  hr.  on 
each  job  and  a  saving  in  money  of  from 
$3  to  $6  in  operator's  time. 

The  main  and  connecting-rod  bearings 
are  burned  in  separately  and  in  order 
that  there  shall  be  no  delay  at  the  ma- 
chine, the  pistons,  connecting  rods,  riiigs 
and  piston  pins  should  first  have  been 
overhauled  in  accordance  with  instruc- 
tions given  in  previous  chapters  of  this 
article,  so  that  they  arc  ready  to  be 
assembled  into  the  cylinders  as  soon  as 
the  main  bearings  have  been  burned-in. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  take  the  bearing 
caps  off  after  the  bearings  are  burned-in, 
consequently  this  much  of  the  assembly 
is  complete. 

There  are  twe  types  of  burning-in 
machines  made  at  present,  one  of  these 


68 


BURNING    IN    THE    BEARINGS 


69 


being  so  designed  that  the  cylinder  block 
is  held  right  side  up  and  the  other  hold- 
ing the  block  up  side  down.  There  is 
no  special  advantage  in  either  design 
over  the  other,  except  that  where  the 
block  is  held  up  side  down,  the  bearings, 
caps  and  shaft  are  in  plain  sight  and 
the  progress  of  the  operation  can  be 
watched  with  more  facility. 

Set-Up  of  the  Machine 

It  is  desirable  that  the  burning-in 
machine  be  set  up  on  as  firm  a  founda- 
tion as  possible.  Lag  screws  of  sufficient 
length  to  hold  it  firmly  in  place  must 
be  used,  but  if  it  is  possible  to  bolt 
through  the  floor,  this  is  better  still. 

The  power  required  to  run  a  burning- 
in  machine  is  not  so  great  after  the  first 
30  seconds  of  starting,  but  the  first  pull 
is  pr-  ,t,y  great  and  an  electric  motor  of 
at  least  10  hp.  is  desirable.  A  smaller 
motor  can  be  used  if  it  is  not  considered 
possible  to  use  the  bigger  one,  but  the 
caps  may  have  to  be  fitted  a  little  looser, 
the  actual  time  of  the  burning-in  will  be 


different  and  it  is  not  possible  to  get  as 
satisfactory  a  job. 

The  proper  speed  for  the  machine  is 
250  r.p.m.  This  gives  the  best  uniform 
results.  The  lowest  speed  at  which  it  is 
possible  to  get  any  kind  of  results  is 
200  r.p.m.,  and  the  speed  should  cer- 
tainly not  exceed  300  r.p.m. 

The  usual  speed  of  electric  motors 
is  between  1200  and  1800  r.p.m.,  and 
this  will  have  to  be  reduced  by  means 
of  pulleys  of  different  sizes  from  the 
shafts. 

The  best  general  arrangement  if  the 
burning-in  machine  is  the  only  power- 
driven  unit  in  the  shop  is  to  belt  the 
motor  to  an  overhead  shaft  and  then 
belt  from  this  shaft  to  the  burning-in 
machine.  If  other  power  machines  are 
already  in  operation  the  burning-in  ma- 
chine may  be  driven  from  an  additional 
pulley  on  this  shaft..  The  usual  speed 
of  line  shafts  is  about  300  r.p.m. 

To  calculate  the  correct  diameter  of 
pulleys  to  produce  certain  speeds  multi- 


70 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig,  37 — Both  the  main  bearing  and  connecting-rod  caps 
are  tolken  down  on  emery  cloth 


ply  the  diameter  of  the 
driving  pulley  by  the 
speed  of  that  pulley, 
then  divide  by  the  speed 
of  the  driven  pulleys, 
the  answer  being  the 
correct  diameter  for  the 
driven  pulley.  For  ex- 
ample: 

Electric  motor  pulley 
10  in.  diameter,  speed 
1200  r.p.m. 

Required  to  belt  (this 
to  a  line  shaft  to  give 
300  r.p.m.  and  then  to 
a  burning  -  in  machine 
with  18  in.  pulley  the 
speed  to  be  250  r.p.m. 

Multiply  the  diameter 
of  the  electric  motor 
pulley  (10  in.)  by  the 
speed  (1200  r.p.m.), 
which  gives  12,000.  Di- 
vide this  by  the  speed 
that  the  line  shaft  is  to 


BURNING    IN    THE    BEARINGS 


71 


run  (300  r.p.m.),  gives 
us  40,  which  is  the  di- 
ameter the  pulley  on 
the  line  shaft  should  be. 

Another  belt  goes 
from  the  line  shaft  to 
the  burning-in  machine 
from  another  pulley. 
Multiplying  the  diam- 
eter of  the  machine 
pulley  (18  in.)  by  the 
speed  it  is  designed  to 
run  (250  r.p.m.),  gives 
us  4500,  which  divided 
by  the  speed  of  the  line 
shaft  (300  r.p.m.), 
gives  an  answer  of  15, 
which  is  the  proper 
diameter  of  the  line 
shaft  pulley. 

1 — Fit  the  main  bear- 
ing caps  to  the  shaft  so 
that  when  they  are  held 
in  place  with  the  hand,  Fig.  38 — The  rock  of  the  caps  should  be  tested  with  a  feeler 
the  ends  of  the  bearing  gage  or  piece  of  shim  steel 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


where  the  bolts  go  through  the  holes  will 
rock  slightly.  In  other  words,  the  bear- 
ing must  be  a  little  too  tight  to  set  down 
tight  by  hand  against  the  liners.  If  the 
adjustment  cannot  be  made  very  exact 
by  shifting  the  liners  around,  then  the 


bearing  cap  should  be  taken  down  a 
little  until  the  proper  "rock"  to  the  cap 
is  obtained.  The  proper  rock  is  between 
.004  and  .006  in.  The  paper  that  this 
is  printed  on  is  .0025  in.  thick  by  mi- 
crometer measurement,  so  fthe  rock 


Pig,  39 — Time  can  be  saved  in  beveling  the  babbitt  by  making  a  special  scraper 
which  cuts  the  edges  down  very  quickly 


BURNING    IN    THE    BEARINGS 


CO     <» 

H 


. 


*9. 

1 


iff 

»  !*> 


•S .,» 


74 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


should  be  about  twice  the  thickness  of 
the  paper.  A  feeler  gage  can  be  pur- 
chased the  correct  thickness  or  can  be 
made  up  out  of  shim  stock.  The  method 
of  testing  the  rock  is  shown  in  Fig.  38. 
A  rock  of  .0025  in.  on  each  side  would 
give  a  rock  of  .005  in.  on  one  side  when 
the  other  side  is  held  down  to  the  block. 
.2 — When  taking  down  bearing  caps, 
they  should  not  be  filed  as  it  is  a  very 
pretty  job  to  file  the  caps  so  that  they 
are  not  skewed  or  twisted.  A  much 
more  accurate  method  is  to  take  them 
down  on  a  sheet  of  emery  cloth  tacked 
down  to  a  flat  board  or  over  a  sheet  of 
glass.  By  using  the  method  shown  in 
Fig.  37,  the  caps  can  be  taken  down 
evenly  and  the  faces  will  be  true  and 
flat.  If  much  is  to  be  taken  off,  a  coarse 
grade  may  be  used  to  get  quicker  action. 
Another  plan  is  to  get  an  emery  or  car- 
borundum block  and  use  it  in  the  same 
way  as  the  emery  cloth.  The  block  must 
be  trued  up  occasionally,  however,  to 
insure  its  remaining  flat. 

3 — 'Remove    all    traces    of    emery    or 
grinding    compound    by    washing    thor- 


oughly in  gasoline, 

4 — The  babbitt  in  the  blocks  must  be 
beveled  off  to  allow  for  the  surplus  metal 
which  is  burned  off  in  the  burning-in  proc- 
ess. This  can  be  taken  out  with  a  file 
or  a  special  scraper  may  be  made  on 
the  plan  shown  in  Fig.  39.  This  is 
simply  an  ordinary  painter's  scraper  with 
part  of  one  side  ground  off  and  a  cutting 
edge  formed  on  the  45  deg.  angle  formed 
between  the  two  parts  of  the  blade.  The 
caps  do  not  need  to  be  beveled  out  as 
they  already  have  a  little  clearance  in 
the  babbitt.  ( 

5 — Place  the  block  in  position  on  the 
machine,  engaging  the  lugs  of  the  driv- 
ing head  in  the  holes  in  the  flywheel 
flange.  The  details  of  the  parts  are 
shown  in  Fig.  42. 

6 — €lamp  the  block  firmly  to  the  bed 
with  the  clamps  which  will  be  either  on 
top  of  the  block  or  at  the  sides. 

7 — There  is  a  hand  wheel  between  the 
clutch  of  the  machine  and  the  block  and 
it  should  not  be  possible  to  turn  this 
by  hand  if  the  proper  amount  of  rock 
has  been  given  to  the  caps. 


BURNING   IN    THE    BEARINGS 


75 


^7.  41 — rftis  is  another  type  burning-in  machine.    A  flywheel  is  added  to  the 

shaft  and  it  differs  in  some  other  respects  from  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  40,  but 

the  principle  remains  the  same 


76 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig,  42  —  Details  of  the  driving  head  of  the  burning-in 
machine.    The  lugs  engage  the  holes  in  the  flywheel  flange 


8 — Throw  in  the 
clutch  slowly.  If  the 
bearings  are  so  tight 
that  the  belt  slips  or 
the  motor  slows  down, 
slip  the  clutch  in  and 
out  two  or  three  times 
till  things  loosen  up  so 
that  the  machinery  will 
take  the  load. 

9 — Have  a  watch  or 
clock  handy  and  time 
the  running  of  the  ma- 
chine for  the  time  that 
the  clutch  is  in.  After 
the  machine  has  run 
about  30  seconds,  feel 
the  three  bearing  caps 
with  the  finger,  being 
careful  not  to  get  mixed 
up  with  the  revolving 
cranks.  The  caps  should 
be  smoking  hot  by  this 
time  and  should  not  bear 
the  touch  of  the  bare 
skin,  In  one  or  two  or 


BURNING    IN    THE    BEARINGS 


77 


even  all  three  of  the  caps  show  a  dis- 
position not  to  heat  up,  the  caps  have 
not  been  fitted  properly 
and  the  clutch  should 
be  thrown  out. 

10 — A  cool  cap  is  a 
sure  indication  that 
there  has  not  been 
enough  rock  to  the  cap, 
and  this  may  have  been 
brought  about  by  some 
nick  or  obstruction  on 
the  babbitt  which  stuck 
up  above  the  rest  of  the 
surface  and  gave  the 
cap  a  raise  from  the 
shaft.  Then  when  the 
bolts  were  set  down, 
the  protruding  lump 
was  pressed  into  the 
rest  of  the  babbitt  and 
the  bearing  cap  has  a 
nice  loose  fit  which 
makes  it  absolutely  im- 
possible to  burn  it 
in.  The  cool  caps  must  be  caught 
immediately,  as  otherwise  the  whole 


burning-in  operation  will  have  to  be  done 
over  again. 


Fig.  43 — This  is  a  clamp  for  holding  the  crankshaft  while 

polishing    the    cranks    preparatory    to    fitting    the    bearings. 

It  obviates  the  necessity  of  using  an  ordinary  vise  and  makes 

the  shaft  rigid  and  convenient  to  work  on 

11 — Remove   the    cool    caps   and   take 
them  down  on  the  emery  cloth  or  abra- 


78 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


sive  stone  exactly  the  same  way  as  they 
should  have  been  fitted  up  in  the  first 


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gr.  44 — .rwo  views  of  the  turning  bar  which  is  used  in  turn- 
ing the  crankshaft  around  when  the  flywheel  is  removed 


place.  The  rock  should  be  between  .004 
and  .006  in.  No  allowance  is  to  be  made 
for  heat  in  this  case. 


12 — Continue  the  operation  the  same 
s    when    starting    thefirst  time. 

13 — The  total  time 
the  machine  takes  to 
burn  in  the  bearings 
is  in  the  neighborhood 
of  2  minutes,  but  this 
may  vary  with  .the  exact 
tightness  of  the  caps  in 
the  first  place,  the  grade 
and  softness  of  the  bab- 
bitt and  the  speed  of 
the  machine. 

14 — It  is  an  excellent 
plan  to  throw  out  the 
clutch  at  the  end  of  1 
minute     and     try     the 
handwheel.     If  it  can- 
not be  turned  with  one 
hand,  the  bearings  are 
not    done.      Try    again 
at     the     end     of     l1^ 
minutes    and   frequently    thereafter   till 
a  point  is  reached  when  the  handwheel 
can  just  be  turned  with  one  hand.    This 


BURNING    IN    THE    BEARINGS 


79 


1O     PULLEY 
1-200   r.pnv 


LINE  SHAFT 
5PEED  300    r.p.m. 


40    PULLEY 


Fig.  45 — Diagram 
of  pulleys  and 
belting  to  illus- 
trate the  example 
which  is  worked 
out  in  the  text 


16"  PULLEY 
250  r.p.m. 


BURNING  -IN     MACHINE 


is  the  proper  freeness 
of  the  bearings  at  this 
point.  After  they  are 
oiled  and  run  in  on  tire 
stand  later,  they  will 
loosen  up  a  little  more. 

Connecting-Rod  Bear- 
ings 

15 — Apply  oil  freely 
to  the  main  bearings  so 
that  they  will  not  burn 
in  any  more  while  tha 
connecting-rod  bearings 
burn  in.  This  applica- 
tion of  oil  will  also  put 
a  polish  on  them  during 
the  running. 

16 — R  emove  the 
block  from  the  machine 
and  insert  the  pistons 
complete  with  rings  and 
rods.  Be  sure  to  get 
the  pistons  into  the  cyl- 
inders they  have  previ- 
ously been  fitted  to  as 
shown  by  the  marks. 


80 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


The  clamp  screws  on  the  upper  ends  of 
the  connecting  rods  all  go  toward  the 
camshaft  side  of  the  engine  and  the 
bearing  caps  are  then  put  in  place. 

17 — The  same  method  of  taking  down 
the  caps  or  shifting  liners  to  get  .004 
to  .006  in.  rock  is  gone  through  as  was 
the  case  in  fitting  up  the  main  bearings. 

18 — The  caps  are  taken  down  the 
necessary  amount  on  emery  cloth  or  an 
abrasive  block,  and  it  is  even  more  im- 
portant in  the  case  of  the  connecting- 
rod  caps  to  use  this  method  than  in  the 
case  of  the  main  bearing  caps,  because 
the  connecting-rod  caps  are  smaller  and 
it  is  much  easier  to  file  them  with  a 
twist,  giving  an  unsatisfactory  and  short 
lived  bearing. 

19 — Set  the  nuts  up  tight  as  possible. 

20 — Put  the  block  in  the  machine,  en- 
gage the  driving  head  with  the  flange 
of  the  crankshaft  and  set  up  the  clamps. 

21 — Try  the  handwheel  as  a  check. 
It  should  not  be  possible  to  turn  it. 

22 — Oil  the  pistons  and  cylinders  and 
give  the  main  bearings  another  dose  of 
oil,  but  do  not  allow  any  oil  to  get  on 


or  near  the  connecting-rod  bearkigs. 

23 — Throw  in  the  clutch,  carrying  out 
the  same  precautions  as  in  the  case  of 
starting  to  burn-in  the  main  bearings. 

Attend  to  Cool  Rods  Immediately 

24 — Time  the  operation  as  before  and 
throw  out  the  clutch  after  30  seconds  to 
see  if  all  the  rods  are  heating  up  as 
they  should.  Any  cool  rod  should  be 
attended  to  at  once,  taking  down  the 
cap  until  there  is  the  right  amount  of 
rock. 

25 — Continue  the  operation  of  the  ma- 
chine for  a  minute  and  try  the  hand- 
wheel.  If  it  will  not  turn  with  one  hand, 
continue,  trying  the  tightness  at  short 
intervals,  till  the  handwheel  can  be 
turned  with  one  hand. 

26— When  the  bearings  are  done,  apply 
oil  and  run  for  a  few  minutes  longer  to 
get  a  little  polish  on  the  bearings. 

27 — The  block  is  now  to  be  removed 
from  the  machine  and  is  ready  for  as- 
sembly as  soon  as  the  other  components 
of  the  power  plant  have  been  repaired 
or  overhauled  as  the  case  may  be. 


CHAPTER  XIII 


Testing  and  Overhauling  the  Magneto 


THE  Ford  magneto  consists  of  but 
three  main  parts  and  they  are  so 
simple  to  understand  and  so  readily 
tested  that  no  engine  should  be  assembled 
without  making  sure  that  each  of  the 
components  is  in  good  mechanical  and 
electrical  condition.  The  only  require- 
ments are  that  the  magnets  have  a  suffi- 
cient amount  of  magnetism  or  pulling 
power,  that  they  are  assembled  correctly 
on  the  face  of  the  flywheel,  that  the  coils 
are  neither  open  circuited  nor  short  cir- 
cuited and,  finally,  that  the  contact  is 
in  such  shape  that  it  will  conduct  the 
current  generated  by  the  magneto  to 
the  place  where  it  is  supposed  to  go. 

A  mpst  handy  and  convenient  arrange- 
ment for  testing  the  strength  of  the 
individual  magnets  is  shown  in  Figs.  46 
and  47.  A  slide  allows  the  flywheel  with 
the  magnets  in  place  to  be  pushed  under 
the  measuring  instrument  and  held  evenly 
balanced  in  this  position. 


The  measuring  instrument  is  a  direct 
current  voltmeter  with  a  range  of  30-0- 
30  volts.  Two  extensions  made  of  soft 
iron  extend  down  from  the  poles  of  the 
magnet  in  the  instrument,  and  they  are 
spaced  so  that  they  touch  the  ends  of 
the  Ford  magnets.  The  theory  is  that 
the  voltage  shown  on  the  dial  of  the  in- 
strument will  be  proportional  to  the 
strength  of  the  magnet  being  tested 
when  a  constant  current  such  as  that 
from  a  few  dry  cells  is  sent  through  the 
meter.  By  comparing  the  voltage  regis- 
tered when  a  magnet  known  to  be  good 
is  placed  under  the  instrument  with  the 
voltage  shown  on  the  one  under  test, 
the  exact  strength  of  the  magnet  can  be 
determined.  The  correct  strength  may 
run  anywhere  from  5  to  12  volts  with  six 
dry  cells  Connected  up,  but  each  instru- 
ment must  be  tested  up  with  a  good 
magnet  and  the  calibration  secured  in 
this  way.  Any  standard  voltmeter  can 


81 


82 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  46 — Diagram  of  the  ar- 
rangement used  on  a  voltmeter  to 
adapt  it  to  measure  the  strength 
of  the  Ford  magnets.  The  ex- 
tensions to  the  magnet  in  the  in- 
strument are  soft  iron 


EXTENSION  T' 
POLE  PlECf.5 
WHiCH  REST 
ON  MAGNETS 


Fig.  47a — The  complete  apparatus  for 
testing  the  Ford  magnets 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


Fig.  476 — The  instrument  is  mounted  on  a  sliding  board  which 
is  held  up  by  a,  spring  and  depressed  by  a  foot  lever  under  the 
bench.  The  current  is  only  connected  when  the  test  is  being 
carried  out.  An  automatic  switch  may  be  installed  to  cut  it 
off  at  other  times. 


be  altered  by  any  instru- 
ment maker  when  the 
conditions  are  known. 

In  case  the  testing 
instrument  described 
above  is  not  available, 
the  test  can  be  carried 
out  a  little  less  accu- 
rately but  reliably  by 
hanging  a  block  of  cast 
iron  or  steel  from  the 
poles  of  each  magnet 
in  turn. 

1  —  Each  magnet 
should  be  capable  of 
lifting  2  Ib. 

2 — Cut  out  a  piece  of 
soft  steel  such  as  cold 
rolled  to  the  dimensions 
of  1%  x  1%  x  3  9/16. 
This  will  weigh  just  a 
shade  under  2  Ib.  If  it 
is  not  possible  or  con- 
venient to  cut  it  to  these 
dimensions,  use  any 


84 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  48 — A  block  of  steel  weigh- 
ing about  2  Ib.  should  hang  from 
the  magnets  if  they  are  of  the 
correct  strength.  If  they  are  too 
weak,  the  block  will  drop  off. 


other    sizes    that    will    bring    the    piece 
to  a  size  so  that  it  contains  6%   cu.  in. 

3 — Hold  the  flywheel  vertically  or  in 
the  position  which  it  assumes  when  in 
the  engine  and  hold  the  block  of  steel 
to  each  pair  of  magnet  poles  in  succes- 
sion. TJw  test  is  to  be  made  on  each 
pair  of  like  poles,  that  is,  a  pole  of  one 
magnet  and  a  pole  of  the  next  magnet, 
not  the  two  poles  of  the  same  magnet. 

4 — If  the  magnet  will  sustain  the 
weight,  it  has  sufficient  strength,  but  if 
the  weight  drops  off,  then  the  magnet  is 
too  weak. 

5 — Regardless  of  which  method  of 
testing  has  been  used,  if  one  or  more 
of  the  magnets  is  found  under  strength, 
an  entire  new  set  should  be  installed. 
The  new  magnets  come  from  the  branch 
or  factory  mounted  on  a  board  just  in 
the  position  that  they  should  be  on  the 
flywheel.  However,  a  method  of  check- 
ing up  the  polarity  of  the  magnet  poles 
will  be  explained  further  on  in  this  chap- 
ter. 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


85 


6 — When  assembling  or  disassembling 
the  magnets,  if  the  flywheel  is  separated 
from  the  transmission,  two  pieces  of 


Fig.   49 — Diagram   of  the   correct 

assembly   of   the   magnets    on   the 

flywheel. 

wood  about  1  in.  thick  should  be  laid 
on  the  bench  so  that  the  flywheel  will 
have  a  good  solid  base  to  sit  on  while 
the  cap  screws  are  taken  out  or  put  in 


as  the  case  may  be.  If  the  flywheel  is 
still  on  the  transmission,  then  the  whole 
unit  can  be  set  in  a  box  made  so  that  the 
sides  support  the  rim  of  the  flywheel. 

7 — Cut  the  locking  wire  that  runs 
through  the  heads  of  the  steel  cap  screws 
nearest  the  center  of  the  flywheel. 

8— Remove  the  bronze  screws  that  hold 
the  pole  pieces  of  the  magnets  down. 
These  are  or  should  be  riveted  after  they 
are  screwed  in,  so  that  the  cheapest  and 
most  effective  method  of  taking  them  out 
is  to  cut  the  riveted  parts  off  with  a 
chisel  and  replace  them  with  new  ones. 

9 — Remove  the  steel  cap  screws  from 
which  the  locking  wire  has  been  pre- 
viously removed. 

10 — The  magnets  can  now  be  lifted 
right  off  the  flywheel. 

11 — Clean  off  the  flywheel,  the  screw 
holes  and  the  magnet  pole  pieces. 

Remagnetizing  Magnets 

A  question  that  has  caused  a  lot  of 
discussion  is  whether  it  is  practical  to 
remagnetize  Ford  magnets  rather  than 


86 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


replacing  them  with  new  ones,  There 
are  several  answers  to  this. 

1 — It  is  perfectly  possible  to  recharge 
the  magnets  by  any  one  of  a  number  of 
different  methods,  but  the  expense  of 
operating  the  charging  mechanism,  the 
skill  required  to  get  each  magnet  the 
same  strength  and  the  possibility  that 
the  magnet  may  go  back  again  on 
account  of  softness  or  other  causes,  makes 
it  inadvisable  to  attempt  the  operation 
unless  it  can  be  done  on  such  a  scale 
that  one  man  can  give  pretty  much  all 
of  his  time  and  experience  to  it  so  that 
the  results  can  be  guaranteed. 

2 — It  is  even  possible  to  remagnetize 
the  magnets  by  sending  a  current  of 
electricity  through  the  coils  when  the 
magneto  is  assembled  in  the  engine,  but 
the  magnets  have  to  be  very  accurately 
in  front  of  the  proper  spools,  the  right 
amount  of  current  must  be  put  through 
the  coils  and  kept  connected  for  just 
the  proper  length  of  time.  The  possibil- 
ity of  reversing  the  poles  is  so  great  that 
there  is  only  one  chance  in  five  of  the 
operation  turning  out  a  success. 


Neither  of  the  methods  mentioned  in 
operations  Nos.  I  or  2  is  recommended 
or  countenanced  by  the  Ford  Motor  Co., 
or  any  of  its  branches,  but  the  question 
is  asked  so  often  that  we  cannot  pass 
aver  the  subject  of  the  magneto  without 
making  brief  mention  of  the  two  methods 
and  their  disadvantages. 

3 — Dropping  a  magnet  on  the  floor  is 
very  likely  to  cause  it  to  lose  its  mag- 
netism. Hammering  or  vibration  will 
have  the  same  effect,  therefore  the  mag- 
nets should  be  handled  with  the  utmost 
care  and  should  be  tested  with  the  meter 
after  having  been  assembled  to  the  fly- 
wheel in  order  to  learn  whether  any- 
thing has  happened  to  them  in  the  mean- 
time. 

Magnet  Polarity 

Every  permanent  magnet  has  two 
poles,  a  north  and  a  south,  and  the  mag- 
nets which  form  a  part  of  the  Ford 
magneto  are  no  exception  to  this  rule. 
It  is  immaterial  which  is  which,  but  the 
magnets  must  be  assembled  so  that 
the  north  pole  of  one  magnet  is  held 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


87 


under  the  same  pole  piece  as  the  similar 
pole  of  the  next  magnet.    The  next  two 


Fig.  50 — This  is  the  method  used 

in  determining  the  polarity  of  the 

magnets. 

poles  will  be  south,  then  two  north,  and 
so  on. 

1 — To  tell  which  pole  is  which,  hold 


two  magnets  close  together.  If  two  of 
the  poles  attract  each  other,  then  these 
are  unlike  poles,  because  unlike  poles 
attract.  In  other  words,  one  'is  a  north 
and  the  other  is  a  south.  To  get  the  like 
poles  together,  simply  reverse  one  of 
the  magnets.  In  this  position  the  poles 
will  not  attract  each  other  but  will  have 
a  slight  repellent  action  which  will  not 
be  quite  so  marked  as  the  attractive 
action  of  the  unlike  poles.  (See  Fig.  50.) 

2 — Another  method  that  is  often  used 
is  to  bring  a  small  pocket  compass  near 
the  poles.  After  the  magnets  are  as- 
sembled on  the  flywheel,  if  the  compass 
is  moved  slowly  around  the  outside  of 
the  flywheel,  the  needle  should  take  a 
violent  jump  and  reverse  its  position 
every  time  it  passes  from  one  set  of 
poles  to  the  next  set.  If  at  any  pair  of 
poles  the  needle  just  wiggles  and  does 
not  seem  to  know  which  way  to  turn, 
this  indicates  that  this  pair  of  magnets 
is  wrongly  placed.  (See  Fig.  51.) 

3 — One  magnet  improperly  placed  will 
cause  a  considerable  reduction  in  the 


88 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


voltage  of  the  entire  magneto  and  will 
also  make  it  jumpy  so  that  missing  may 
result.  It  might  be  possible  to  run  the 


A®    0B 


Fig.   51 — Using  a  compass   to  de- 
termine the  correct  assembly  of  the 
magnets. 


car  after  a  fashion  with  one  magnet  in 
wrong,  but  all  the  other  equipment  would 
most  certainly  have  to  be  in  the  very 
pink  of  condition  to  do  so.  No  job 
should  ever  be  allowed  to  pass  through 
with  a  single  magnet  in  wrong. 

4 — After  ascertaining  the  polarity  and 
arranging  the  magnets  the  way  they 
should  go,  put  them  in  place  on  the  fly- 
wheel. 

5 — Catch  the  center  retaining  bolts 
in  the  holes,  but  do  not  tighten  them 
up.  These  are  the  steel  bolts. 

6 — Slip  the  outside  spools  under  the 
ends  of  the  magnet  poles. 

7 — Put  the  pole  pieces  in  place. 

8 — Catch  the  brass  screws,  which 
should  be  new  ones,  in  their  holes. 

9 — get  the  screws  down  tight  with  a 
brace  screwdriver. 

10 — Pinch  the  ends  of  the  magnets  ir 
with  a  pair  of  pliers  until  the  sides  of 
the  magnets  rest  against  the  lug  on  th* 
pole  pieces. 

11 — Tighten  the  brass  screws 

12— Tighten  the  central  bolts. 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


89 


13 — Put  a  new  locking  wire  through 
the  steel  bolts,  getting  it  as  tight  as 
possible  and  then  twisting  the  ends  to- 
gether. 

14 — In    inserting    this     wire,    put    it 


through  the  holes  in  the  manner  shown 
in  Fig.  52,  as  this  creates  a  tendency 
to  tighten  the  bolts  rather  than  loosen 
them. 

15 — Knock    the    four   corners    of   the 


Fig.  52 — This  is  the  way  the  wire  should  be  run  through  the  heads  of  the 

bolts.    If  run  through  the  other  way,  there  is  a  tendency  to  loosen  the  bolts 

when  the  wire  is  pulled  tight 


90 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


pole  pieces  down  over  the  magnets  so 
that  there  will   be  no   chance   of  their 


110  VOLT 
5  O  WATT  LAMP 


Fig.  53 — Diagram  of  the  connections  of  test  points  and  lamp 
for  testing  with  a  IW-volt  circuit 


catching  in  the  coils  when  the  parts  are 
assembled. 

Replacement  Coils  and 
Magnets 

In  replacing  sets  of 
magnets  it  should  be 
noted  that  1909  and 
1910  cars  used  magnets 
9/16-in.  thick  (order 
number  3275),  together 
with  coil  assembly  No. 
3250B,  both  of  which, 
are  now  obsolete.  Re- 
placements should  be 
made  with  magnet  as- 
sembly No.  3276B,  the 
magnets  of  which  are 
%-in.  thick  and  the 
thinner  coil  No.  3250D 
will  fit  in  the  assembly 
with  this. 

From  1911  to  1914, 
the  magnet  assembly 
No.  3276  was  used,  and 
these  were  %-in.  thick. 
Coil  assembly  No.  3250C 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


91 


was  used  with  this  assembly,  and  these 
should  be  replaced  with  magnet  assembly 
No.  3267B  and  coil  assembly  No.  3250D, 
the  same  as  in  the  other  case. 

Testing  the  Coils 

Each  one  of  the  coils  on  the  coil  as- 
sembly consists  of  a  number  of  turns 
of  copper  ribbon  running  around  the  soft 
iron  core.  Adjacent  coils  are  wound  in 
the  opposite  direction.  This,  with  the 
alternating  arrangement  of  the  magnet 
poles  which  pass  in  front  of  the  cores, 
produces  the  alternating  current  in  the 
magneto. 

In  order  that  the  magneto  may  deliver 
the  current  which  is  generated  to  the 
terminal  on  top  of  the  transmission  cover, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  circuit  be  con- 
tinuous from  the  point  where  the  first 
coil  is  grounded  to  the  frame  to  the 
contact  on  the  last  spool  which  con- 
nects with  the  magneto  terminal.  Any 
break  in  this  circuit  will  result  in  a  dead 
magneto. 

Of  equal  importance  is  the  perfect  in- 
sulation of  the  coils  from  start  to  finish. 


If  there  is  a  short  circuit  from  the  coils 
to  the  frame  the  current  generated  by 
the  magneto  will  either  be  so  weak  as 
to  seriously  interfere  with  correct  igni- 
tion, or  there  may  be  "no  current  at  all, 
depending  on  just  which  coil  is  shorted. 

Tests  for  short  circuits  and  open  cir- 
cuits on  the  coils  are  carried  out  by 
means  of  an  electric  lamp  connected  to 
some  form  of  current.  It  really  does 
not  make  any  difference  whether  a  bat- 
tery is  used  or  whether  the  current  is 
taken  from  the  electric  light  mains, 
although  the  latter  is  more  convenient 
in  most  cases.  Both  ways  are  described. 

Using  Electric  Light  Current 

1 — 'Connect  up  a  set  of  test  points  with 
a  switch  and  electric  light,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  53.  For  110-volt  current  use  a  50- 
watt  lamp.  Fuses  of  6-ampere  capac- 
ity should  be  used  to  protect  the  wiring. 
The  cord  is  ordinary  braided  silk  covered 
flexible  conductor  and  the  test  points  can 
be  bought  ready  made  or  can  be  made 
up  in  the  shop.  They  are  simply  wooden 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


UNSOLDERED 
ETTD  OP 
J2IBBON 


CONTACT 

Figm  54 — Testing  for  open  circuit 


handles  with  steel  or 
brass  points,  the  ends 
of  the  flexible  cord  be- 
ing soldered  to  the 
points  so  as  to  make  a 
good  connection. 

2 — Before  making  any 
test  at  any  time  close 
the  switch  and  touch 
the  two  points  together 
to  see  if  the  light  is  in 
working  order.  When 
the  points  are  touched 
together,  the  light 
should  light. 

To  Test  for  Open  Cir- 
cuits 

3 — To  test  for  open, 
circuits,  unsolder  the 
end  of  the  coil  ribbon 
from  the  sheet  steel 
frame.  This  can  gen- 
erally be  done  by  pry- 
ing it  off  carefully  with 
a  screwdriver,  taking: 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


93 


care  not  to  break  the 
ribbon  off,  but  simply 
to  pry  it  loose  from  the 
solder.  If  there  hap- 
pens to  be  too  much 
solder,  melt  the  solder 
with  a  hot  soldering 
iron  or  a  fine  jet  from 
a  torch.  (See  Fig.  55.) 

4 — Hold  one  of  the 
test  points  to  the  un- 
soldered end  of  the  rib- 
bon and  the  other  to  the 
bare  metal  against 
which  the  magneto  con- 
tact presses.  If  the 
circuit  is  continuous 
throughout  the  coils, 
the  light  will  light.  If 
it  does  not  light,  there 
is  a  break  somewhere. 
Be  sure  in  making  this 
or  any  of  the  other 
tests  that  the  test  points 
make  a  good  metallic 
contact.  Scrape  off  any 


•UNSOLDERED  END  OP  IHBBON 

Fig.  55 — Testing  for  short  circuit 


94 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


shellac,  oil,  grease  or  other  material  till 
a  bright  clean  surface  is  obtained  and 
touch  the  test  point  to  this  spot. 

5— To    test    for    a    short    circuit,    the 
grounded  ribbon  must  be  unsoldered  just 


contact  end.    The  other  point  is  touched 
to  any  point  on  the  sheet  steel  frame  or 
to  one  of  the  iron  cores.    Use  the  same 
precaution  to  get  a  good  metallic  con- 
tact, scraping  off  the  shellac  or  other 
material      that      might 
prevent  such  good  con- 
tact. 

6 — If  the  coils  pass 
these  two  tests,  they 
are  in  good  serviceable 
condition  and  can  be 
assembled  into  the  en- 
gine at  any  time  ^fter 
the  ground  connection 
is  resoldered  to  the 
frame. 

7 — If  the  coils  do  not 
pass  the  test,  a  new  set 
of  coils    should   be   in- 
ig.  5(j — Diagram  of  the  connections  for  test  points  and  lamp     stalled.     It   is   possible 


using  a  Q-volt  storage  battery 

as  in  the  other  test,  but  in  this  case, 
one  of  the  points  is  touched  to  eitkor 
the  unsoldered  end  of  the  ribbon,  or  the 


to  repair  defective  coils 
sometimes,     but    it    is 
cheaper  and  makes  a  better  job  to  re- 
place the  whole  coil  unit. 
8— If  the  coils  are   replaced  be  -sure 


TESTING    AND    OVERHAULING    THE    MAGNETO 


95 


that  the  correct  magnet  set  is  installed 
on  the  flywheel.  The  groups  are  ex- 
plained under  the  heading  of  "Replace- 
ment Coils  and  Magnets,"  page  90. 

9 — If  the  coils  and  magnets  have  been 
tested  and  assembled  according  to  these 
instructions,  there  is  no  possibility  of 
the  magneto  not  working  unless  some 
damage  is  done  to  it  between  the  tests 
and  the  assembly  of  the  engine.  Later 
operations  will  tell  how  to  test  the  mag- 
neto after  the  engine  assembly  is  com- 
plete. The  gap  between  the  coil  cores 
and  the  magnets  is  1/32  in. 

Using  a  Battery  and  Light 

10 — 'If  the  tests  are  to  be  carried 
out  with  a  battery  current  instead  of 
the  electric  light  current,  the  connec- 
tions are  hooked  up,  as  shown  in  Fig.  56, 
and  the  test  then  made  in  exactly  the 
same  manner.  Of  course  it  would  be 


necessary  to  use  a  low  voltage  lamp 
instead  of  the  110-volt  lamp,  and  a  handy 
size  to  use  would  be  6-volt  18  c.p.  if  a 
6-volt  battery  is  used.  Do  not  use  a 
battery  when  it  becomes  so  weak  that 
the  current  is  unreliable.  A  slight  re- 
sistance at  the  test  points  may  throw  the 
test  all  out. 

11 — Tests  can  even  be  made  with  the 
regular  bell-ringing  magneto,  which  is 
used  in  electrical  line  testing,  but  it  is 
not  so  handy  or  convenient  as  the  elec- 
tric light  method  and  it  takes  one  more 
hand  to  turn  the  magneto  crank. 

A  storage  battery  makes  the  best 
source  of  current  for  this  purpose,  and 
when  it  gets  run  down  it  should  be  re- 
charged or  replaced  with  another  one  in 
good  condition. 

Dry  cells  can  also  be  used,  but  not  less 
than  six  cells  should  be  hooked  up  to  get 
sufficient  voltage  to  overcome  slight  re- 
sistances at  the  points. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
Overhauling  the  Transmission 


E  usrral  trouble  with  a  transmis- 
sion that  is  brought  in  for  overhaul- 
~^"  ing  is  worn  bushings  which  allow  the 
drums  to  wobble.    To  rebush  the  drums 
requires    the    complete    dismantling    of 
the  unit. 

1 — The  front  universal  ball  cap  with 
the  bearing  included  will  no  doubt  have 
been  removed  before  this,  but  it  should 
be  fitted  up  to  the  rear  end  of  the  driv- 
ing plate  shaft  to  see  if  there  is  any 
looseness.  If  there  is,  a  new  ball  cap 
with  new  bearing  should  be  installed 
when  the  transmission  is  assembled.  The 
bands  will  slip  right  off  the  drums  to 
the  rear. 

2 — In  most  cases  it  is  not  necessary  to 
entirely  disassemble  the  parts  from  the 
transmission  driving  plate  assembly  and 
the  spring,  pin,  etc.,  can  be  left  as  they 
are. 


3 — Remove  the  locking  wire  from 
the  screws  that  hold  the  transmission 
driving  plate  to  the  brake  drum  and  re- 
move the  screws. 

4 — The  unit  is  then  tipped  over  drop- 
ping out  the  clutch  push  ring  and  the 
clutch  disks. 

5 — Remove  the  lock  stud  that  keys  the 
inside  clutch  drum. 

6 — Remove  the  drum  and  key  with  a 
puller. 

7 — The  drums  together  with  the  triple 
gears  can  now  be  slipped  over  the  shaft, 
starting  the  shaft  if  necessary  with  a 
babbitt  hammer. 

8 — Pull  the  driven  gear  with  its  key, 
thus  releasing  the  two  drums  from  the 
brake  drum. 

9 — If  necessary  to  disassemble  the 
spring,  the  unit  may  be  put  in  a  vise, 
compressing  the  cup,  then  driving  out 
the  pin.  This  will  release  the  clutch 


96 


OVERHAULING    THE    TRANSMISSION 


97 


Fig.  57 — Reamers  used 
in  overhauling  trans- 
mission. 28Z-97,  slow 
speed  gear  bushing 
reamer;  28Z-253,  re- 
verse gear  bushing 
reamer;  28Z-132,  driven 
gear  sleeve  bushing 
reamer;  15/1 6-in.  trans- 
mission driving  plate 
bushing  reamer;  .679-w. 
Planet  gear  bushing 
reamer 


28Z-I32      Z8Z-253     28Z-97  .679in 


98 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  58 —  Arbor  press 
tools  for  transmission. 
A,  triple  gear  bushing 
reamer;  B,  brake  drum 
bushing  driver;  C,  slow 
speed  bushing  driver; 
D,  reverse  drwm  bush- 
ing driver;  E,  driven 
gear  puller  block 


OVERHAULING    THE    TRANSMISSION 


shift,  the  spring,  the  spring  support  and 
the  thrust  ring. 

10 — Clean  the  clutch  disks  in  gasoline 
or  kerosene  and  if  they  are  cut  or 
scored  they  should  be  discarded  and 
new  ones  should  be  inserted  when  the 
clutch  is  reassembled.  Slight  scores  msj 
be  smoothed  out,  but  in  case  of  doubt  it 
is  better  to  replace  them. 

Replacing  the  Buskings 

An  arbor  press  is  almost  indispensable 
in  removing  and  replacing  the  bushings 
in  the  transmission  and  it  is  used  for  the 
same  purpose  in  rebushing  various  parts 
of  the  front  and  rear  axle. 

1 — Place  one  of  the  drums  on  the  plate 
of  the  arbor  press  with  the  round  block 
shown  in  Fig.  59  underneath.  This  block 
is  necessary  to  take  the  push  of  the  press, 
otherwise  this  push  would  be  taken  by 
the  rim  of  the  drum  and  this  would  most 
certainly  break  or  twist  the  drum. 

2 — Use  the  proper  driver  to  fit  the 
'Irum  being  operated  on.  The  drivers 
used  for  transmission  work  are  shown  in 


Fig.  58.  Each  is  the  correct  size  and 
has  the  right  kind  of  a  shoulder  on  so 
that  the  new  bushings  will  not  be  dam- 
aged when  pushing  them  in. 

3 — All  three  of  the  drums  are  to  be 
rebushed  in  this  way.  See  that  the  new 
bushings  are  a  tight  fit  and  if  they  ara 
not,  see  whether  the  new  bushing  is  at 
fault  or  whether  the  drum  in  some  way 
has  had  the  hole  enlarged.  If  these 
bushings  do  not  fit  tight,  it  will  be  im- 
possible to  secure  a  satisfactory  job. 

4 — The  triple  gears  are  to  be  rebushed 
in  the  same  way,  but  before  rebushing 
they  must  be  tested  to  see  if  the  rivets 
are  tight  and  that  there  is  abolutely  no 
motion  between  the  gears. 

5 — If  it  is  necessary  to  re-rivet  the 
gears,  cut  the  heads  of  the  old  rivets  out 
with  a  cold  chisel. 

6 — Line  the  three  gears  comprising  the 
unit  up  so  that  the  teeth  of  all  three 
gears  are  in  line  at  one  place.  This  will 
occur  at  only  three  points  of  the  cir- 
cumference of  each  set  of  gears. 

7 — Insert  new  rivets  in  the  holes. 


100 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


OVERHAULING    THE    TRANSMISSION 


8 — Head  the  rivets  up  on  a  jig  like  the 
one  shown  in  Fig.  63.  This  will  hold 
the  heads  of  the  rivets  without  disturb- 
ing the  position  of  the  gears. 

Reaming  the  Bushings 

After  the  bushings  have  been  pressed 
into  the  drums  and  gears,  they  must  be 
reamed  out  to  the  correct  size.  Fig.  57 
shows  all  the  reamers  necessary  in 
reaming  the  bushings  of  the  transmis- 
sion. 

1 — Clamp  the  drums  one  at  a  time  in  a 
clamping  device  similar  to  the  one  shown 
in  Fig.  61  or  Fig.  62.  This  will  hold  the 
drum  rigid  and  will  not  deface  or  scratch 
the  surface  of  the  drum  and  at  the  same 
time  will  allow  the  operator  to  use  both 
hands  on  the  reamer. 

2 — Run  the  reamer  through  each  bush- 
ing all  the  way.  In  using  a  reamer, 
never  turn  it  backward  either  to  free  it 
of  cuttings  or  to  take  it  out.  Reamers 
that  are  always  turned  in  a  forward  di- 
rection will  not  get  dull  as  quickly  as 
those  that  are  turned  backward  from 
time  to  time. 


3 — The  reamer  'must 'be  held  steady; 
chattering  and  an  uneven  hole  will  be  the 
result  otherwise. 


Fig.  60 — Transmission  drum  support 
which  is  placed  under  the  drum 

Assembly  of  the  Transmission 
1 — The  group  consisting  of  the  three 
drums,  the  driven  gear  and  the  triple 


TO?  , 


M'OD'EIJN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


gears  is  the"  first  thing  'to  "be  assembled. 

2 — Put  the  brake  drum  (which  is  the 

one  with  the  longest  shaft)  on  the  bench 


4 — Put  the  reverse  drum  over  the  slow 
speed  drum  so  that  the  reverse  gear  sur- 
rounds the  slow  speed  gear. 


Fig.  61 — A  transmission  drum  cla/mping  device  for  holding  the  drums  while  reaming  the 
bushings.    The  tool  is  bolted  to  the  bench  and  the  faces  of  drums  are  not  injured 


with  the  shaft  or  hub  uppermost 

3 — Put  the  slow  speed  drum  on  over 
this,  the  gear,  of  course,  being  at  the  top. 


5 — Slip  the  driven  gear  in  place  with 
the  teeth  downward  so  that  they  wiD 
come  next  to  the  slow  speed  gear,  the  two 


OVERHAULING    THE    TRANSMISSION  103 

Woodruff   keys   having   been   previously  far  enough  so  there  is  no  lost  motion,  yet 

put  in  the  two  slots  in  the  brake  drum  so  that  the  drums  do  not  bind. 


Fig.  62 — Another  type  of  dram  clamping  de-  Fig.  63 — A  jig  for  rivet- 

vice.    This  one  has  an  extension  to  steady  the  ing  the  triple  gears  to- 

reamer  gether 

hnb.    An  arbor  press  can  be  used  to  f  6rc*  7— Mesh  the  three  triple  gears  with  the 

the  gear  into  place.  driven  gear  so  that  the  punch  marks  cor- 

6— The  gear  should  be  driven  on  just  respond,  the  smallest  of  the  three  gears 


104 


MODERN  METHODS  OP  FORD  REPAIRING 


comprising  the  triple 
gear  assembly  being  at 
the  bottom. 

8 — Space  the  three 
triple  gears  around  the 
driven  gear  so  that 
there  is  an  equal  dis- 
tance between  them. 

9 — Tie  string  around 
the  outsides  of  the 
triple  gears  to  hold 
them  in  this  position. 

10 — E  x  a  m  i  n  e  (the 
triple  gear  studs  on  the 
flywheel  and  replace  if 
they  are  worn. 

11— Place  the  fly- 
wheel face  down  on  the 
bench. 

Fig.  64— A  stand  for 
holding  flywheels,  coil 
assemblies,  etc.  It  is 
'made  of  angle  iron  and 
will  accommodate  as- 
semblies on  top  and  on 
the  shelf 


OVERHAULING    THE    TRANSMISSION 


105 


12 — Turn  over  the  assembly  of  drums  and  triple  gears  and  slide 
them  on  the  transmission  shaft. 

13 — The  studs  should  enter  the  holes  through  the  triple  gear 
bushings ;  if  they  do  not  do  so  readily,  shift  till  they  do. 

14 — Fit  the  clutch  drum  key  in  the  transmission  shaft. 

15 — Press  the  clutch  disk  carrier  in  place  on  the  shaft. 

16 — Lock  in  position  with  set  screw. 

17 — put  the  distance  plate  on  over  the  clutch  drum. 

18 — Replace  the  clutch  disks,  starting  with  a  small  one,  then  al- 
ternating large  and  small.  A  large  disk  must  come  last  as  a  small 
one  would  be  liable  to  slip  over  the  edge  of  the  drum  when  the 
clutch  spring  is  released. 

19 — Put  the  clutch  push  ring  on  over  the  clutch  drum  and  on  top 
of  the  disks.  The  three  pins  should  project  upwards. 

20 — Bolt  the  driving  plate  in  position,  the  three  pins  of  the  push 
ring  coming  through  to  make  contact  with  the  adjusting  screws  on 
the  clutch  fingers. 

21 — If  the  transmission  is  properly  assembled  up  to  this  point, 
the  flywheel  will  revolve  freely  while  any  one  of  the  drums  is 
held  stationary. 

22 — Slip  the  clutch  'shift  over  the  hub  so  that  the  small  end  rests 
on  the  ends  of  the  clutch  fingers. 

23 — Put  the  clutch  spring  in  place,  the  clutch  supports  being 
inside  so  that  the  flange  will  rest  on  the  upper  coil  of  the  spring. 

24 — Place  the  clutch-spring  thrust  ring  in  place  with  the  notched 
end  down. 

25 — Compress  the  spring  so  that  the  pin  can  be  put  through  the 
hole  in  the  side  of  the  spring  support  and  then  through  the  shaft. 
In  order  to  compress  the  spring,  the  adjusting  screws  of  the  clutch 
fingers  should  be  loosened  all  the  way, 


Transmission 
twrnfaff  bar 


106 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


26 — The  only  adjustment  is  that  on 
the  clutch  and  the  three  screws  should 
be  set  up  so  that  each  one  has  the  same 
numher  of  turns.  If  they  are  screwed  in 
until  the  clutch  spring  is  compressed  to 
a  length  of  2  1/16  in.  the  clutch  should 
have  sufficient  hold  to  drive  the  car  with- 
out any  trouble. 

The  transmission  can  now  be  assem- 
bled to  the  engine  at  any  time  that  the 
engine  is  ready. 

Transmission  Bands 

If  the  shop  is  a  small  one,  it  will  prob- 
ably be  found  more  profitable  to  install 
the  new  bands  already  lined  as  they  come 
from  the  factory  or  branch,  but  where  a 
large  number  of  jobs  are  handled,  it  will 
be  found  profitable  to  save  such  bands  as 
are  still  in  good  condition  as  far  as  the 
metal  parts  are  concerned  and  reline 
them  when  work  in  some  department  of 
the  shop  slacks  up  enough  to  spare  one 
or  two  men  to  do  a  bunch  of  the  work  at 
once. 

1 — Rip  off  the  old  lining  and  extract 
the  old  rivets. 


2 — Straighten  up  the  metal  parts  if 
they  are  bent  or  if  the  strap  is  kinked 
or  twisted. 

3 — The  size  of  the  brake  lining  is 
x  1%  x  5/32  in.  Do  not  use  brake 
lining  with  wire  insertion  or  metal  of  any 
kind  as  this  will  wear  off  and  eventually 
short  circuit  the  magneto. 

4 — An    old    transmission   brake    drum 

can  be  held  in  the  vise  by  its  shaft  or 

can  be  mounted  permanently  on  the  bench 

with  some  pipe  fittings  after  the  manner 

•  shown  in  Fig.  66. 

5 — The  band  with  the  lining  in  place 
is  placed  around  the  drum  and  the  rivets 
driven  through  the  holes.  Brass  rivets 
only  must  be  used  and  these  are  9/64  in. 
diameter  and  either  %  or  9/16  in. 
long.  When  the  rivets  are  driven 
through  the  band  and  the  lining  they  will 
clinch  themselves  on  the  drum  and  an 
extra  blow  will  compress  the  lining 
enough  so  that  the  ends  of  the  rivets 
will  countersink  themselves  a  short  dis- 
tance into  the  lining. 


OVERHAULING  THE  TRANSMISSION 


107 


Assembling  the  Bands 

6 — The  bands  should  now  be  given  a 
final  straightening  out  around  the  drum 
so  that  they  will  be  as  round  as  possible 
and  fit  the  drum  without  dragging  at  any 
one  point. 

The  bands  can  be  assembled  to  the 
drums  with  much  more  facility  if  this 
is  done  before  the  crankcase  is  assembled 
to  the  engine. 

1 — Slip  the  bands  on  the  drums  with 
the  lugs  upward. 

2 — If  the  bands  are  given  a  slight  twist 
inward  before  they  are  put  on,  there  will 
be  enough  friction  to  hold  them  in  this 
position  until  the  crankcase  and  trans- 
mission cover  assembly  is  put  on. 

3 — In  assembling  the  bands  with  the 
crankcase  on,  the  bands  must  be  turned 
with  the  lugs  downward  and  slipped  over 
ahead  of  the  forward  drum. 

4 — Assembly  will  be  facilitated  if  the 
flywheel  is  turned  so  that  one  set  of 
triple  gears  is  about  10  deg.  to  the  right 
of  top  center. 


5 — The  band  is  then  pushed  one  way  or 
the  other  until  it  has  gone  over  all  the 
gears. 

6 — The  first  band  to  be  put  on  is 
slipped  to  the  rear  drum,  the  second  to 
the  middle,  and  the  third  to  the  front. 

7 — The  bands  must  be  turned  with  the 
lugs  uppermost  while  they  are  over  the 
triple  gears  as  this  is  the  only  place 
where  there  is  enough  clearance  to  allow 
the  lugs  to  be  turned  around. 

8 — A  U-shaped  piece  made  out  of  5/16 
or  %-in.  drill  rod  is  put  over  the  lugs 
when  they  are  all  in  an  upright  position. 
This  will  hold  the  lugs  in  so  that  the 
pedal  shafts  will  rest  in  the  notches 
when  the  transmission  cover  is  put  on. 
It  will  be  impossible  in  this  case  to  con- 
tract the  bands  so  that  they  will  stick  to 
the  drums  and  stand  up  themselves  as 
the  slipping  on  over  the  triple  gears  will 
have  bent  them  outward.  See  Fig.  67. 
In  lieu  of  the  U-shaped  rod,  a  piece  of 
heavy  cord  may  be  used,  but  this  is  not  as 
quick  or  as  handy. 


108 


MODERN  METHODS  OF.  FORD  REPAIRING 


9 — When  putting  the  transmission  cover 
on,  the  clutch  release  ring  must  be  placed 
in  the  rear  groove  of  the  clutch  shaft. 


Fig.  66 — A  jig  for  clinching  the  rivets  in  the  transmission 
brake  linings 


i.0 — The  U-shaped  piece  Can  now  be 
pulled  out  and  the  lugs  of  the  bands  will 
be  just  where  they  belong. 

The  jig  shown  in  Fig. 
66  is,  as  stated  in 
operation  No.  4,  an  old 
transmission  brake 
which  is  a  standard 
drum.  A  floor  flange, 
pipe  fitting,  is  securely 
bolted  to  the  bench  in 
such  a  position  that  the 
drum,  when  attached, 
will  overhang  the  end 
of  the  bench  by  several 
inches.  The  upright  is 
a  close  nipple  which 
screws  into  both  the 
floor  flange  and  the  el- 
bow which  is  at  the 
upper  end. 

The  horizontal  pipe 
is  of  a  length  to  allow 
the  drum  to  hang  over 
the  bench.  It  has  a 


OVERHAULING  THE  TRANSMISSION 


109 


Fig.  67 — The  lugs  of  the  bands  are  held  together  with 

a  U-shaped  rod  so  that  the  pedal  shafts  will  rest  in  the 

notches 


standard  pipe  thread 
cut  on  the  end  that 
screws  into  the  elbow 
and  the  other  end  is 
threaded  long  enough 
so  that  the  threads  will 
extend  clear  through 
the  drum  with  enough 
over  to  allow  a  pipe 
locknut  on  both  sides  of 
the  drum.  This  piece 
of  pipe  has  to  be  spe- 
cially threaded  for  this 
purpose  and  this  can  be 
obtained  at  any  plumb- 
ing shop  or  it  can  be 
made  up  if  the  repair- 
shop  has  a  set  of  pipe 
dies.  In  cutting  a 
thread  of  this  length  it 
will  be  found  easier  to 
set  the  dies  above 
standard  and  taking  the 
thread  in  two  or  three 
cuts  to  standard. 


CHAPTER  XV 
Reseating  and  Grinding  Valves  and  Other  Minor  Engine  Repairs 


WHEN  the  valve  seats  are  worn  to 
a  point  where  the  seat  is  too  wide, 
a  remedy  exists  in  the  way  of  bor- 
ing the  port  out  larger,  

reamnig  the  seat,  and  if 
there  is  wear  in  the 
guide;  reaming  the 
guide  for  oversize  valve 
stems. 

1 — A  tool  for  doing 
all  three  of  these  opera- 
tions is  shown  in  Fig. 
68. 

2 — Place  the  enlarg- 
ing reamer  with  the 
stem  in  the  valve  guide. 

3 — Put  the  clamp  on 
over  the  reamer  and  set 
the  bolts  down  tight. 

4 — Turn  the  reamer 
with  a  wrench  until  it 
goes  all  the  way  down 


and  enlarges  the  port  the  entire  distance. 
5 — Replace  the  enlarging  reamer  with 
the  seating  reamer. 


g,  68 — A  tool  for  renewing  the  valve  ports,  the  left 
showing  the  port  enlarging  tool,  the  center  the  reseat- 
ing tool  and  the  right  the  guide  reamer 


110 


RESEATING  AND  GRINDING  VALVES  AND  MINOR  ENGINE  REPAIRS 


111 


6 — Turn  the  seating  reamer  until  a 
narrow  even  seat  is  formed. 

7 — Even  light  pressure  is  required  on 
this  reamer  to  prevent  chattering  and 
making  an  uneven  seat. 

8 — Replace  the  reseating  reamer  with 
the  guide  reamer  and  run  this  all  the 
way  through,  enlarging  the  guide  to  take 
the  oversize  valve  stems. 

9 — The  jig  or  clamp  remains  bolted  to 
the  cylinder  head  during  all  these  opera- 
tions, thus  insuring  the  truth  of  the  three 
operations.  Two  bolts  are  furnished  which 
fit  into  the  cylinder  head  bolt  holes,  and 
the  jig  is  swung  from  one  port  to  another 
by  loosening  only  one  bolt. 

10 — A  straight  reseating  reamer  for 
recutting  the  seat  only  is  shown  in  Fig. 
69.  No  clamp  is  necessary  with  this  and 
the  stem  is  simply  inserted  in  the  valve 
stem  guide  and  the  reamer  turned  until 
a  good  clean  seat  is  obtained. 


— A  plain  valve  reseater 


112 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Replacing  Camshaft  Bushings 

1 — When  the  camshaft  bushings  are 
worn,  they  should  be  replaced.  They  are 
removed  from  the  casting,  two  of  them 
being  siplit  and  the  other  one  being  a 
one-piece  bronze  bushing.  Clips  hold 
the  halves  of  the  split  bushings  to- 
gether. 

2 — A  line  reamer  for  the  camshaft 
bearing  is  shown  in  Fig.  70.  It  is  pro- 
vided with  two  guide  surfaces  which 
bear  in  the  casting  so  that  the  reamer 
part  of  the  tool  will  ream  the  hole  in  the 
small  bushing  exactly  in  line  with  the 
other  holes. 

3 — Before  the  camshaft  is  replaced  it 
should  be  tested  with  the  same  testing 
and  straightening  press  that  was  used 
in  the  case  of  testing  and  straightening 
the  camshaft.  This  was  shown  in  a 
previous  chapter  in  Fig.  19  and  19A. 
Another  method  of  testing  is  shown  in 
Fig.  71. 

4 — If   the    crankshaft    bearings    have 


Fig.  70 — Line  reamer  for  camshaft  bearing 


RESEATING  AND  GRINDING  VALVES  AND  MINOR  ENGINE  REPAIRS     113 


been  properly  babbitted  and  burned  in, 
the  gears  of  the  camshaft  should  mesh 
smoothly  and  nicely  with  the  crankshaft 


marks  on  the  two  gears  should  be  put 
together  and  no  further  worry  need  be 
had  over  the  timing. 


Fig,  71 — A  method  of  testing  the  stmightiness  of  the  camshaft 


gear    without    grind    and    without    any 
appreciable  backlash. 

5 — In    timing    the    gears,    the    punch 


6 — In  case  the  punch  marks  have  been 
removed  by  the  use  of  a  new  gear  or 
from  other  causes,  the  timing  should 


114 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


be  made  such  that  the  valves  and  pistons 
have  the  following  relation: 

Exhaust     valve     opens     when     piston 


Fig.  72 — A  is  the  29/64-m.  reamer 
to  ream  the  push  rod  holes  1/64  in. 
oversize ;  B  is  the  camshaft  bearing 
bushing  reamer,  and  C  is  the  21/64- 
in.  reamer  for  reaming  the  valve 
stem  guides  1/16  in.  oversize 


comes    within    5/16    in.    of    bottom 
stroke,    the    distance   from    the    top 
of  the   cylinder   casting   to   the   top 
of  the   cylinder  head   being   3%    in. 
Exhaust  valve  closes  on  top  dead  cen- 
ter, the  piston  being  5/16  in.  above 
the  cylinder  casting. 
Intake  valve  opens  1/16  in.  after  top 

dead  center. 

Intake  valve  closes  9/16  in.  after  bot- 
tom dead  center,  the  distance  from 
the   top   of  the   cylinder   casting   to 
the  top  of  the  piston  being  3%   in. 
'7 — In  checking  this  valve  timing,  the 
clearance    between    the   valve    stem   and 
the  cam  follower  is  supposed  to  be  be- 
tween 1/32  and  1/64  in. 

The  starting  crank  bushing  should  be 
replaced  if  it  is  worn  so  that  there  is 
considerable  lost  motion  between  the 
starting  crank  and  the  bushing.  The 
bushing  is  simply  pressed  out  in  a  press 
and  a  new  one  inserted. 

Brazing   Crankcase   Arms 

1 — Many  large  shops  make  a  practice 
of  reriveting  and  rebrazing  the  crank- 


RESEATING  AND  GRINDING  VALVES  AND  MINOR  ENGINE  REPAIRS     115 


case  arms  on  all  overhaul  jobs  which  are 
turned  out  whether  the  operation  is 
called  for  or  not  on  the  card.  The  ad- 
vantage is  that  the  job  cannot  be  brought 
back  by  the  owner  to  correct  this  fault 
later.  It  is  a  simple  enough  job  when 
the  crankcase  is  disassembled  from  the 
engine,  but  to  do  the  job  over  requires 
taking  the  engine  out  of  the  car  and 
taking  it  partly  down,  which  is  some- 
what of  an  expense. 

2 — Either  cut  the   old  arms   off  with 
a  chisel  or  melt  the  spelter  with  the  torch. 

3 — €lean   up   the   surface   around   the 


arm  so  that  it  is  bright  and  free  from 
grease  and  oil. 

4 — Rerivet  new  arms  in  place,  heading 
the  rivets  up  with  a  ball  peen  hammer. 
A  piece  of  shafting  with  a  countersunk 
place  in  the  top  makes  an  excellent  anvil. 

5 — Heat  the  vicinity  of  the  arms  up 
with  the  torch,  applying  borax  and  spel- 
ter when  the  proper  heat  is  reached. 

6 — After  brazing  the  arms,  the  crank- 
case  should  be  tested  to  see  if  the  heat 
has  had  any  effect  in  the  alignment.  If 
it  has,  the  crankcase  should  be  straight- 
ened before  assembly,  as  it  will  be  hard 
to  get  the  bolts  in  place  otherwise. 


CHAPTER  XVI 


The  Carbureter 


FORD    cars    are    fitted    with    either 
Kingston  model  L  or  Holley  model 
G  carbureters.     In  either  case  there 
is  but  one  mixture  adjustment,  that  be- 
ing   the    needle    valve.     There    are    no 
supplementary    air    valves    or    anything 
else  requiring  adjustment  providing  the 
other    parts    of    the    carbureter    are    in 
perfect  order. 

The  Kingston 

The  usual  method  of  adjusting  the 
carbureter  is: 

1 — Start  the  engine. 

2— Advance  the  throttle. 

3 — Ketard'the  spark. 

4 — Cut  down  the  gasoline  supply  by 
screwing  down  the  needle  valve  in  a 
clockwise  direction  until  the  engine  be- 
gins to  misfire. 

5 — Gradually  increase  the  supply  by 
turning  the  needle  valve  in  the  opposite 
direction  until  the  engine  picks  up  and 


reaches   its  highest  Speed  and  with  no 
trace  of  black  smoke  at  the  exhaust. 

6 — Tighten  up  the  binding  screw  or 
locknut  sufficiently  to  hold  the  needle 
valve  in  this  position. 

7 — Should  dirt  or  sediment  clog  up 
the  spray  nozzle,  open  the  needle  valve 
lialf  a  turn  and  give  the  throttle  valve 
two  or  three  quick  pulls  to  race  the 
engine.  This  will  generally  create  suffi- 
cient vacuum  at  the  needle-valve  orifi. 
to  pull  the  obstruction  through  and  the 
needle  valve  can  then  be  reset  to  its 
correct  position. 

8 — The  drain  cock  should  be  opened 
occasionally  to  free  the  chamber  of  dirt 
and  water. 

The   Holley 

To  adjust  the  carbureter: 
1 — Loosen    the    needle    valve    locknut 
until  the  needle  turns  freely. 


116 


THE  CARBURETER 


117 


2—  Screw  the  needle 
valve  in  a  clockwise 
direction  until  the 
needle  valve  touches 
the  seat.  Do  not  turn 
too  far  or  use  pressure 
or  the  seat  and  the 
point  of  the  needle  will 
be  damaged.  (See  Fig. 
74.) 

3  —  Turn  the  needle  to 
the  left  one  complete 
turn.  This  is  approxi- 
mately the  correct  mix- 
ture for  most  cars,  but 
it  may  vary  between 
•seven-eighths  of  a  turn 
and  one  and  one-quar- 
ter turns. 

4—  Screw  the  locknut 
down  till  it  prevents 
the  needle  from  turn- 


ls_Section  of  Kingston  Model  L  carbureter.    A  is  the  fuel 
e>  #  ^e  air  valve,  C  the  loiv-speed  tube,  D  the  fuel  nozzle, 
E  the  choke  throttle,  F  the  float  and  G  the  drain  cock 


118 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  74 — Section  of  Holtey  Model  G  carbureter.   H  is  needle 

valve,  I  drain  cock,  J  throttle  lever,  K  float,  L  needle  valve 

locknut,  M  choke  throttle  lever,  N  choke  tube,  O  locking  ring 

and  P  bowl 


ing  through  vibration, 
yet  is  loose  enough  to 
be  turned  by  hand. 

.  5 — Start  the  engine, 
choking  if  necessary, 
and  let  the  engine 
warm  up. 

6 — T  h  e  adjustment 
can  best  be  made  by 
.Slipping  the  dash  con- 
trol rod  out  of  the  h^les 
in  the  needle  valve  and 
turning  the  needle 
valve  itself. 

7 — Turn  the  needle 
valve  one  way  or  the 
other  till  the  engine 
does  not  backfire 
through  leanness  of  the 
mixture,  nor  does  black 
smoke  come  from  the 
exhaust  through  rich- 
ness. 


THE    CARBURETER 


119 


Setting  the  Float  on  the  Holley 

In  any  carbureter,  the  fuel  level  must 
be  maintained  at  a  certain  height  in 
the  bowl  so  that  it  is  slightly  below  the 
level  of  the  fuel  nozzle  or  needle  valve* 
In  the  case  of  the  Holley  Model  G  (Fi£. 
74),  there  are  certain  set  maximum  and 
minimum  levels  outside  of  which  the  car- 
bureter will  not  give  satisfactory  results. 
IJ:  is  very  easy  to  check  these  up  with  a 
gage. 


1 — Such  a  gage  is  made  of  flat  steel 
stock  5/16  in.  wide,  %  in.  thick  and  6 
in.  long.  Fig.  75  shows  the  gage.  A  slot 
is  filed  in  each  end  3/16  in.  wide  and 
3/16  in.  deep.  This  leaves  two  points 
1/16  in.  thick  at  each  end. 

2 — File  one  of  these  points  at  one  end 
so  that  it  is  1/16  in.  lower  than  its  mate. 

3 — File  one  of  the  points  at  the  other 
end  so  that  it  is  ~Ys  in.  lower  than  its 
mate. 


HIGH      JL 

LEVEL   ^ 
GAGE 


a, 

f    LEVIL 
GAGE 


ig.  75 — Gage  for  testing  the  correctness  of  the  float  level  in  the  Holley 

Model  G  carbureter 


120 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


4 — Inasmuch  as  the  level  of  the  gaso- 
line in  the  bowl  should  be  from  1/16  to 
%  in.  lower  than  the  top  of  the  nozzle, 
the  points  v/ill  show  whether  the  level 
is  too  high  or  too  low. 

5 — Place  the  gage  so  that  the  short 
point  of  the  low-level  end  of  the  gage 


Fig.  76 — Setting  the  float  on  the 
Holley.  To  lower  the  level,  pry  up 
the  lever  as  shown  at  the  left.  To 
raise  the  level,  push  the  lever  down 
as  shown  at  the  right 

rests  on  the  point  of  the  cup  at  one  side 
between   the   wrench   lugs,   holding   the 
gage  in  a  vertical  position. 
6 — The  gasoline  should  touch  the  long 


point  of  the  gage.  If  it  does  not  touch 
it,  the  level  is  too  low  and  the  float 
should  be  adjusted  accordingly.  See 
later  operations  for  adjustment  of  the 
float. 

7 — If  the  level  of  the  gasoline  Comes 
above  the  longer  point  of  the  low-level 
end,  turn  the  gage  end  for  end  and  apply 
the  same  test,  but  this  time  the  gasoline 
should  not  touch  the  long  point,  or  at 
least  it  should  just  barely  touch  it.  If 
the  long  point  dips  into  the  gasoline,  the 
level  is  too  high  and  the  float  should 
be  adjusted  accordingly. 

8 — The  best  operation  of  the  carbure- 
ter is  secured  at  the  1/16-in.  level. 

9 — To  raise  or  lower  the  level  of  the 
fuel,  the  float  lever  is  bent  up  or  down 
as  the  case  may  be.  Fig.  76  shows  the 
operations  of  lowering  the  level  by  bend- 
ing or  prying  the  lever  up  or  raising  the 
level  by  bending  the  lever  down. 

10 — It  is  desirable  to  make  the  float 
stand  at  a  slight  angle  away  from  the 
flange  with  that  part  of  the  float  which 
is  opposite  the  hinge  farther  from  the 


THE    CARBURETER 


121 


flange  than  the  hinse  section  itself.  The 
pressure  of  the  gasoline  will  then  be 
greatest  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  float 
and  this  will  insure  a  tighter  fitting 
needle  valve  which  will  prevent  leakage 
at  this  point. 

11 — In  making  the  above  tests  on  a 
car  which  has  been  used,  the  bowl  should 
be  drained  and  allowed  to  fill  up  again, 
as  when  an  engine  is  stopped  there  is 
always  a  certain  amount  of  condensation 
in  the  intake  manifold  which  finds  its 
way  back  into  the  bowl  and  thus  gives 
an  artificially  high  level. 

12— See  that  the  float  lever  is  tight 
on  the  float  and  that  the  rivets  and 
screws  are  not  loose. 

13 — See  that  the  float  is  central  about 
the  mixing  chamber  and  that  it  is  not 
twisted  to  one  side  or  the  other  as  it 
might  rub  on  the  stem  or  on  the  inside 
of  the  fuel  chamber  and  any  rubbing  or 
contact  of  this  nature  would  cause  er- 
ratic action  of  the  float  and  consequently 
the  gasoline  level  would  vary  consider- 
ably. 


The  Holley  Fuel  Inlet  Valve 

The  fuel  inlet  valve  consists  of  a 
needle  with  a  hard  tip  and  this  is  lifted 
by  the  float  as  the  fuel  level  rises  until, 
when  the  level  is  correct,  the  tip  of  the 
needle  enters  the  hole  in  the  needle  seat 
and  so  stops  flow  of  gasoline  from  the 
tank  until  the  level  drops  in  the  bowl. 

1 — For  satisfactory  operation,  the 
needle  must  be  true  and  without  burrs 
or  scratches  and  the  seat  must  also  be 
true  so  that  when  the  needle  touches  the 
seat,  a  gasoline-tight  joint  will  be  made. 

2 — If  either  needle  or  seat  is  dam- 
aged, it  is  best  practice  to  renew  both 
parts  as  grinding  is  uneconomical  and 
is  not  sure  to  produce  a  good  job.  The 
only  excuse  for  grinding  is  lack  of  new 
parts. 

3 — The  inlet  needle  seat  is  best  re- 
moved with  a  special  tool  shown  in  Fig. 
77,  although  it  can  be  done  with  a  screw- 
driver. The  use  of  the  tool,  however, 
prevents  burring  and  damaging  the  out- 
side of  the  seat  and  the  slot.  The  seat 
fits  in  against  a  gasoline-proof  fiber 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Fig.  77 — Special  tool  for  removing 

and  replacing  the  inlet  needle  seat 

on  the  Holley  carbureter 


gasket.  If  this  is  torn  or  damaged 
during  the  removal  of  the  seat,  it  should 
be  replaced  also,  making  sure  that  all 
of  the  old  gasket  is  removed. 

4 — See  that  the  needle  seat  is  screwed 
in  against  the  gasket. 

5 — Owing  to  the  triangular  shape  of 
the  needle  body  and  the  shoulders  which 
guide  it,  there  is  a  possibility  that  one  of 
theso  shoulders  might  catch  in  the  screw- 
driver slot  in  the  needle  seat  when  the 
float  drops  to  the  bottom  of  the  empty 
float  chamber.  If  the  float  chamber  has 
been  drained  and  floods  upon  again  being 
filled,  the  needle  can  easily  be  jarred 
loose  by  a  slight  tap  with  a  hammer 
or  wrench  on  the  side  of  the  carbureter 
body. 

6 — The  tightness  of  the  fuel  inlet 
needle  may  be  ascertained  by  turning 
the  carbureter  upside  down,  allowing  the 
weight  of  the  float  to  hold  the  needle 
on  its  seat  and  then  sucking  lightly  on 
the  fuel  inlet  elbow.  If  the  valve  is 
tight  it  should  stick  to  the  tongue  or 


THE    CARBURETER 


123 


lips  much  the  same  as  in  the  case  of  a 
small  bottle. 

The  Spray  Nozzle 

1 — The  spray  nozzle  is  held  down 
against  a  gasket  by  means  of  a  thread 
on  the  lower  end  which  extends  down 
into  the  stem  of  the  mixing  chamber 
below  the  hole  which  admits  the  gasoline 
to  the  inside  of  the  stem.  It  forms  the 
seat  for  the  needle  valve  and  also  em- 
bodies a  cup  into  which  the  low-speed 
tube  extends. 

2 — See  that  the  nozzle  is  screwed  tight 
down  on  its  gasket.  This  is  accomplished 
with  a  special  slotted  wrench  shown  in 
Fig.  78. 

3 — Qieck  the  size  of  the  hole  forming 
the  needle  seat.  This  should  be  a  No. 
52  drill,  .063  in.  diameter.  The  thick- 
ness of  the  disk  through  which  this 
passes  is  1/16  in. 

4 — Check  the  taper  in  the  upper  end 
of  the  needle  seat  hole.  It  should  ex- 
tend to  a  depth  of  between  1/64  and  1/32 
in.,  and  should  be  the  same  angle  as 
the  needle  point,  which  is  30  deg.  If 


Fig.  78 — Slotted  tool  for  removing 

and  replacing  the  spray  nozzle  on 

the  Holley  carbureter 


124 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


the  hole  has  been  enlarged  by  screwing 
the  needle  in  too  far,  the  seat  should  be 
thrown  out  and  a  new  one  put  in. 

5— The  needle  hole  and  the  four  holes 
through  the  side  walls  immediately  be- 
low the  disk  which  forms  the  needle  seat 
should  be  unobstructed. 

The   Strangling   Tube 

The  strangling  tube  is  a  die  casting 
to  give  depression  and  mixing  action 
above  the  spray  nozzle  and  it  is  held 
on  its  seat  by  a  spring  wire  at  the  top. 

1 — To  remove  the  tube,  take  out  the 
retaining  wire  and  the  tube  can  be  lifted 
right  out. 

2 — The  older  models  had  tubes  with 
an  inside  diameter  of  13/16  in.,  but  the 
newer  models  are  fitted  with  tubes  of 
23/32  in.  diameter  to  more  readily  mix 
the  lower  grades  of  fuel  on  the  market 
in  the  past  two  years. 

3 — Much  better  carbureter  action  can 
be  secured  if  the  larger  tube  on  the  older 
models  is  replaced  with  the  new  smaller 
tube.  An  old  tube  can  easily  be  identified 


by  checking  up  the  smallest  inside  di- 
ameter of  the  tube.  The  difference  in 
carbureter  performance  will  not  vary 
much  during  hot  weather,  but  there  is 
a  decided  improvement  in  cold  weather 
when  the  smaller  tube  is  used. 

The  Low  Speed  Tube 

The  low  speed  tube  supplies  gasoline 
for  idling  when  the  throttle  is  closed 
or  only  very  slightly  open. 

1 — See  that  the  clamp  nut  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  tube  is  tight.  / 

2 — See  that  the  screw  through  the 
side  wall  of  the  mixing  chamber  to 
which  the  upper  end  of  the  tube  is  at- 
tached is  tight. 

3 — The  plug  which  fills  the  hole 
through  which  the  low-speed  tube  is  in- 
serted must  be  tight. 

4 — The  lower  end  of  the  tube  must  be 
tight  against  the  small  shoulder  at  the 
bottom  of  the  cup  in  the  spray  nozzle, 
thus  leaving  a  clear  path  for  the  needle 
valve  to  reach  its  seat. 

5 — The    lower    end    of    the    tube    is 


THE  CARBURETER 


125 


beveled  at  a  7  deg.  angle  so  that  the 
edge  nearest  the  spray  nozzle  is  higher 
than  the  edge  against  shoulder  in  cup. 

6— The  lower  edge  of  the  tube 
farthest  from  the  spray  nozzle  hole 
must  be  down  to  within  1/64  in.  of  the 
bottom  of  the  spray  nozzle  cup. 

7. — The  tube  must  not  be  bent  or 
dented. 

8 — The  lower  end  of  the  tube  is  flat- 
tened, making  a  long  narrow  opening 
at  the  bottom.  Be  sure  that  this  opening 
is  not  plugged  up  and  do  not  enlarge  it 
or  change  its  shape  as  the  original 
shape  has  been  developed  to  give  the 
best  operation. 

Low- Speed    Hole    in    Mixing    Chamber 

When  the  throttle  plate  is  set  straight 
across  the  carbureter  outlet,  the  edge 
of  the  low-speed  hole  in  the  mixing 
chamber  should  show  from  .02  to  .04  in. 
outside  of  the  throttle  plate  as  shown 
in  Fig.  79. 

Throttle    Plate,    Rod   and    Lever 

If  the  throttle  rod  or  the  holes  in  the 


mixing  chamber  are  worn  sufficiently  to 
make  a  loose  fit,  a  new  rod  should  be 


Fig.  79 — The  low-speed  hole  should 

show  between  .02  and  .04  when  the 

throttle  is  shut  on  the  Holley 

installed  as  looseness  at  this  point  will 
admit  air  from  the  outside  and  interfere 


126 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


with   satisfactory    carbureter    operation. 

1 — if  the  rod  has  a  perceptible  shake 

in  the  hole,  replace  it  with  an  oversize 

rod,    drilling    or   reaming    out    the   hole 


Fig.  80 — Result  of  the  needle  valve 
being  out  of  adjustment.  The  spray 
nozzle  is  so  damaged  that  it  will 
have  to  be  replaced  and  the  point 
of  the  needle  will  no  doubt  have 
been  hooked  over 

in  the  mixing  chamber  to  make  a  good 
fit  for  the  new  rod. 

2 — Standard  oversize  rods  are  17/64 
in.  and  9/32  in.,  the  original  size  of  the 
rod  being  ^  in. 

3 — The  plate  when  set  squarely  across 
the  outlet  hole  of  the  mixing  chamber 


should  not  be  less  than  .006  in.  smaller 
than  the  hole.  If  there  is  more  clearance 
than  this  the  plate  should  be  replaced 
with  a  new  one  that  does  fit  or  it  should 
be  peened  with  a  hammer  around  the 
edges  until  it  fits  correctly. 

4 — When  the  plate  is  pinned  to  the 
rod,  any  clearance  should  be  on  the 
side  nearest  to  the  low-speed  hole. 

5 — For  pinning  the  plate  to  the  rod, 
use  a  No.  55  drill  .052  in  diameter  and 
have  the  pins  fit  tightly  in  the  holes. 

6 — In  adjusting  the  throttle  lever  for 
idling,  set  the  clamp  screw  tight  enough 
to  hold  the  screw  so  that  a  screwdriver  is 
required  to  turn  it. 

Assembling  the  Mixer  Chamber  Cap 

1 — The  needle  valve  must  register 
exactly  with  the  hole  in  the  spray  nozzle. 

2 — To  check  this  up,  tighten  the  clamp- 
nut  slightly,  hold  the  cap  between  the 
jaws  of  a  vise  and  turn  the  needle  valve. 
There  should  be  no  sideways  motion  at 
the  point.  If  the  point  is  not  true  the 
needle  is  bent  and  it  should  be  either 
straightened  or  replaced  with  a  new  one 


THE  CARBURETER 


127 


3 — Back  the  needle  valve  up  several 
turns  before  putting  the  cap  in  place 
to  prevent  possible  damage  to  the  point 
or  the  seat.  Fig.  80  shows  damage  done 
by  bent  needle. 

4— Put  the  cap  in  place. 

5 — Attach  the  cap  to  the  mixing 
chamber  with  the  three  screws,  drawing 
them  down  equally  so  that  the  cap 
presses  evenly  on  the  gasket  at  all  points. 

Setting  the  Kingston  Float 

Three  models  of  Kingston  carbureters 
have  been  used  on  Fords  as  indicated — 
1913-1914  Model  Y 

1915-early  1916  Model  L 

1916-1918  Model  L-2 

Each  of  these  has  a  different  float 
setting : 

1 — On  the  Model  Y  the  clearance  from 
the  top  of  the  float  to  the  top  of  the 
float  chamber  should  be  9/32  in. 

2 — On  the  Model  L  the  clearance  from 
the  top  of  the  float  to  the  top  of  the 
casting  should  be  9/32  in. 


3 — On  the  Model  L-2  the  body  must 
be  turned  upside  down  to  check  the  float 
level  and  there  should  be  a  clearance  of 
7/16  in.  from  the  top  of  the  float  to 
the  top  of  the  machined  surface  on  the 
cup  casting.  In  this  model  the  float  is 
hinged  directly  to  the  body  instead  of 
being  pivoted  to  the  cup,  as  in  the  two 
former  models. 

4 — In  many  other  respects  the  same 
precautions  that  are  used  in  overhauling 
and  assembling  the  Holley  carbureter 
are  applicable  to  the  Kingston.  The 
only  radical  change  in  construction  is 
the  air  valve  which  rests  on  its  seat 
when  the  engine  is  stopped  or  running 
slowly.  As  the  speed  of  the  engine  in- 
creases, this  valve  rises  and  permits 
more  air  to  pass. 

5 — The  gasoline  level  is  at  all  times 
above  the  fuel  nozzle  so  that  a  tiny  pool 
of  gasoline  is  formed  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  mixing  chamber.  When  the  en- 
gine gets  up  speed,  this  pool  is  used  up 
and  the  gasoline  comes  directly  from 
the  fuel  nozzle. 


CHAPTER  XVII 
Assembly  of  Engine  and  Transmission 


IN  going  over  the  various  operations 
that  have  preceded  this,  we  find  that 
certain  parts  of  the  engine  have  been 
partially  assembled  in  the  process  of 
overhauling.  In  the  preparation  and 
burning-in  of  the  bearings,  for  instance, 
the  pistons,  rings  and  other  details  were 
all  attended  to  before  the  burning-in  took 
place,  so  that  these  parts  would  not  after- 
ward have  to  be  taken  out.  The  connect- 
ing rods  and  bearings  are  all  supposed  to 
!be  properly  fitted  and  in  their  right 
places,  the  camshaft  and  camshaft  bear- 
ings have  been  fitted,  the  camshaft  gears 
properly  timed,  the  flywheel  assembled  to 
the  crankshaft,  the  oil  pipe  in  place  and 
the  transmission  assembled  so  far  as  the 
drums,  clutch,  etc.,  are  concerned. 

Magneto  Clearance 

When  the  main  bearings  were  fitted 
by  the  burning-in  process,  the  ends  of 
the  rear  main  bearing  were  also  fitted  to 


the  crankshaft  so  that  there  would  be 
no  more  end  motion  to  the  crankshaft 
than  was  absolutely  necessary  for  the 
shaft  to  turn  easily.  If  there  is  end 
motion,  it  will  be  impossible  to  main- 
tain the  magnets  and  the  spools  in  the 
proper  relation  to  each  other  and  the 
result  will  be  that  when  the  shaft  backs 
up  the  magneto  distance  will  be  in- 
creased with  a  consequent  reduction  in 
the  current  delivered  by  the  magneto, 
and  when  the  shaft  moves  forward  the 
voltage  will  be  greatly  increased  and 
the  danger  of  burning  out  the  lamps 
and  pitting  on  the  coil  contacts  will  be 
much  greater. 

When  assurance  is  had  that  there  is 
no  end  motion  to  the  crankshaft,  the 
distance  between  the  cores  of  the  spools 
and  the  magnets  should  be  definitely 
set  so  that  there  is  a  gap  of  exactly 
1/32  in. 


128 


ASSEMBLY    OF    ENGINE    AND    TRANSMISSION 


129 


1. — This  distance  is  changed  by  alter- 
ing the  number  of  magneto-coil  support 
shims  (Part  No.  3272). 

2. — These  are  shown  in  Fig.  81.  They 
are  made  of  sheet  steel  and  increasing 
the  number  of  shims  decreases  the  mag- 
neto gap,  while  decreasing  the  number 
of  shims  increases  the  magneto  gap. 

3. — This  distance  is  to  be  measured 
after  the  bolts  have  been  set  down  tight. 

The  Crankcase  Nose 

Before  assembling  the  lower  crank- 
case  to  the  block,  see  that  the  nose  is  in 
proper  condition. 

1. — The  rivets  should  all  be  tight. 

2. — The  brazing  should  be  intact  if  the 
part  is  brazed. 

S. — If  the  crank  handle  is  loose  in  the 
bushing  so  that  it  rattles,  it  should  be 
replaced  with  a  new  one. 

4. — Drive  the  old  bushing  out. 

5 — Insert  the  new  bushing. 

6. — Ream  out  the  hole  with  the  reamer 
shown  in  Fig.  82.  This  is  the  steering- 
bracket  bushing  reamer,  but  it  is  the 


same  size  as  the  starting  crank  and  is, 
therefore,  used  for  this  purpose. 

7. — Put  the  starting  crank  in  place  in 
the  bushing,  first  having  slipped  the 
spring  in  place.  The  spring  can  be  slid 


Fig.  81 — Magneto  coil  support 
shim 

down  on  the  bend  of  the  crank  to  facili- 
tate matters  in  putting  the  ratchet  and 
pin  in  place. 

8. — Put  the  ratchet  in  place. 

9. — Insert  the  pin  and  rivet  the  ends 
so  that  it  cannot  fall  out  and  so  the  ends 
do  not  extend  out  more  than  necessary. 

10. — Put  the  spring  in  its  place. 


130 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Replacing  and  Grinding  Valves 

1. — The  push  rods  should  have  been 
examined  previous  to  the  installation  of 
the  camshaft,  and  if  they  are  worn  so 
that  they  would  rattle  or  tend  to  change 
the  timing  of  the  valves,  they  should  be 


far    outdistance    fiddling   with    the   old 
ones. 

3.— The.  valves  should  be  ground  with 
a  fairly  thick  mixture  of  powdered  emery 
and  thin  oil,  such  as  is  ordinarily  used 
for  lubricating  the  Ford  engine.  This 


Fig.  82 — Steering  bracket  bushing  reamer  which  is  used  for  reaming  the 

starting  crank  bushing 


replaced  with  oversize  push  rods,  ream- 
ing the  holes  with  the  oversize  reamer 
which  is  provided  for  the  purpose. 

2. — In  an  engine  overhaul,  it  is  best  to 
take  no  chances  with  the  valves,  par- 
ticularly if  the  seats  and  ports  have 
been  reamed  out,  as  the  cost  of  new 
valves  is  so  small  that  new  ones  will 


should  be  mixed  so  that  it  is  not  so  thin 
that  it  will  run  down  into  the  ports,  and 
it  should  be  used  very  sparingly. 

4. — When  grinding  a  valve  be  sure 
that  the  camshaft  is  in  such  a  position 
that  the  push  rod  is  all  the  way  down  or 
on  the  heel  of  the  cam.  If  the  cam  is 
up,  the  valve  will  simply  turn  around 


ASSEMBLY    OF    ENGINE   AND    TRANSMISSION 


131 


on  the  push  rod  and  the  seats  will  not 
touch  each  other. 

5. — Use   a   valve    grinder   such   as    is 
shown  in  Fig  83.    It  is  much  easier  and 


6. — In  grinding  the  valves,  use  an  os- 
cillating motion  or  a  swing  back  and 
forth,  covering  a  little  more  than  half 
a  circle  each  time.  Every  few  swings 


quicker   than   the   short   ones   that   are          change  the  position  of  the  valve  and  lift 


Fig.  83 — Valve  grinding  tool  for  ordinary  shop  work 


used  by  owners.  However,  when  the 
valves  are  ground  with  the  engine  in 
the  car,  the  clearance  on  the  last  two 
valves  is  so  small  that  it  will  either  be 
necessary  ,to  use  a  short  grinder  like 
Fig  84  or  one  with  a  universal  joint  like 
Fig.  85. 


it  up  a  little  so  that  fresh  grinding  com- 
pound will  get  under  the  seat. 

7. — A  handy  time-saver  for  this  pur- 
pose consists  in  cutting  an  old  valve 
spring  so  that  it  is  just  long  enough 
to  raise  the  valve  about  ^4  in.  from  its 
seat  when  the  pressure  is  taken  off.  A  dia- 


132 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


gram  of  this  device  is  shown  in  Fig.  86. 
8. — A  good  seat  is  obtained  when  there 
unbroken   white   line   all   around 


is   an 


Fig.  84 — Short  valve  grinder  for  fourth 
cylinder  under  dash 

both  the  valve  and  the  seat.  It  is  not 
necessary  that  the  line  be  wide,  in  fact, 
a  better  seat  is  obtained  with  a  very  nar- 


Fig.  85 — Valve  grinder  with  universal 
joint 


ASSEMBLY    OF    ENGINE    AND    TRANSMISSION 


133 


row  line.  Neither  is  it  necessary  to  have 
a  high  polish  on  the  seat  or  valve. 

9. — If  the  valve  shows  white  on  one 
side  only,  this  is  evidence  that  it  is  bent, 
and  it  should  be  replaced  with  a  new 
one  rather  than  trying  to  straighten  it. 
If  only  slightly  bent,  it  may  be  straight- 
ened by  hitting  it  a  slight  tap  with  a 
hammer  when  it  is  on  the  seat. 

10. — If  only  one  side  of  the  seat  shows 
the  white  line,  the  seat  is  warped  or 
distorted  and  should  be  reamed  out  with 
one  of  the  valve  reamers  shown  in  a 
previous  chapter. 

11. — After  a  perfect  seat  is  obtained, 
remove  all  the  abrasive  and  wash  the 
surrounding  parts  with  gasoline  to  re- 
move every  particle  of  emery  so  that 
there  will  be  no  chance  of  its  getting 
into  the  cylinder  or  down  into  the  valve 
guides. 

12. — The  clearance  between  the  lower 
end  of  the  valve  stem  and  the  top  of  the 
valve  should  be  checked  up.  The  mini- 
mum distance  is  1/64  in.,  and  the  maxi- 
mum distance  1/32  in.  The  clearance 


should  be  kept  as  close  as  possible.  If 
the  valve  is  too  short,  it  is  recommended 
that  a  new  one  be  used  rather  than  try- 


Fig.  86 — Spring  cut  off  to  lift  the  valve 
off  the  seat  when  grinding 

ing  to  draw  it  out  by  peening,  as  the 
expense  and  trouble  are  not  worth  the 
difference,  and  a  valve  that  is  not  peened 


134  MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  87 — Method  used  in  turning  the  engine  over.     This  requires  three  men 


ASSEMBLY    OF    ENGINE    AND    TRANSMISSION 


135 


STRIP  OF  FELT 


i\       /"*   "V 


Fig.  88 — Double  packing  at  certain  points  between  the  transmission  cover 
and  the  crankcase  prevents  oil  leakage  at  these  points 


136 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


is  liable  to  last  much  longer  than  one 
that  is  peened. 

13. — In  case  of  a  valve  too  long,  it 
should  be  filed  off,  keeping  the  end  of 
the  stem  absolutely  square. 

14. — The  valves  are  then  put  in  place 
with  the  springs  and  cups  in  place  and 
the  pins  inserted  in  the  stems  with  the 
use  of  a  valve  lifter,  just  the  reverse  of 
the  method  of  taking  them  out. 

Assembling    the    Crankcase    and   Trans- 
mission Cover 

1. — Felt  gaskets  were  formerly  used 
between  the  crankcase  and  the  block  and 
between  the  crankcase  and  the  trans- 
mission cover,  but  these  have  now  been 
replaced  with  cork  gaskets  to  a  large 
extent.  These  parts  are  furnished 
standard  from  the  factory  or  branches. 

2. — Either  shellac  or  cup  grease  may 
be  used  to  coat  the  gaskets  when  as- 
sembling, but  most  of  the  larger  stations 
and  branches  now  use  a  heavy  grease. 

3. — Stand  the  cylinder  block  on  its 
head  on  the.  upside-down  engine  stand. 


4. — Put  the  crankcase  gaskets  in  place 
with  grease. 

5. — Put  the  crankcase  in  position  on 
top  of  the  block. 

6. — Insert  four  or  six  of  the  crank- 
case  bolts,  putting  them  through  from 
the  bottom  of  the  crankcase  to  the  top, 
so  that  the  nuts  will  be  uppermost  when 
the  engine  is  in  its  upright  position. 
The  nuts  should  be  started  on  all  of  the 
bolts  and  the  speed  wrench  used  to 
tighten  them  up. 

7. — The  head  of  the  right  front  bolt 
under  the  timer  is  just  opposite,  or  with 
the  head  up  and  the  nut  down,  as  there 
is  not  room  for  the  nut  on  top  without 
shortclrcuiting  the  No.  3  terminal  of 
the  timer  when  it  is  put  in  place. 

8. — After  the  bolts  are  all  tightened 
up  evenly  and  as  tight  as  possible,  the 
cotters  should  be  inserted. 

9. — Turn  the  engine  over  onto  the 
other  engine  stand.  The  turning  is 
easily  accomplished  by  inserting  a  bar 
in  the  outlet  water  hole  on  th«  cylinder 
head.  One  man  can  catch  this  in  his 


ASSEMBLY    OF    ENGINE   AND    TRANSMISSION 


137 


elbow  to  act  as  a  pivot  and  two 
other  men  can  pick  up  the  transmission 
end  of  the  engine,  turning  it  right  over. 
For  convenience,  the  two  stands  should 
be  side  by  side  and  close  together.  See 
Fig.  87  for  the  method  of  doing  this. 
This  is  only  possible,  of  course,  when 
the  cylinder  head  is  bolted  in  place. 

10. — The  gaskets  between  the  trans- 
mission cover  and  the  crankcase  require 
a  little  more  care  and  there  are  certain 
points  as  shown  in  Fig.  88  that  require 


a  double  thickness  of  packing  to  prevent 
leakage  of  oil  at  these  points. 

11. — The  lugs  on  the  bands  are  still 
assumed  to  be  held  together  with  the 
U-shaped  piece  shown  in  a  previous 
chapter,  and  the  transmission  cover  can 
then  be  slipped  into  place  by  jiggling 
the.  pedals  around  a  little  till  they  drop 
down  in  the  right  place. 

12. — Remove  the  U-shaped  piece  after 
the  transmission  case  bolts  have  been 
inserted  and  tightened  up,  If  any  diffi- 


Fig.  89 — Reverse  and  brake  pedal  tension  spring  ratchet  wrench 


138 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


culty  is  had  in  lining  up  the  bolt  holes, 
a  tapered  drift  pin  will  soon  bring  them 
into  line. 

13. — In  adjusting  the  clutch  and  brake, 
a  ratchet  wrench  saves  ia  great  deal  of 
time  over  a  solid  wrench.  This  is  made 
especially  thin  so  that  it  can  be  easily 
put  in  or  taken  out.  This  is  shown  in 
Fig.  89. 

14. — The  slow  speed  band  is  adjusted 
by  loosening  the  lock  nut  at  the  right 
Bide  of  the  transmission  cover  and  turn- 
ing the  adjusting  screw  to  the  right. 

15 — To  tighten  the  brake  and  reverse 
bands,  the  transmission  cover  door  is 
removed  and  the  adjusting  nuts  turned 
to  the  right.  The  bands  should  not  drag 
on  the  drums  when  disengaged  as  this 
will  act  as  a  brake  and  not  only  use  up 


power,  but  produce  a  heating  effect  and 
also  wear  the  linings. 

16. — The  foot  brake  should  be  adjusted 
so  that  a  sudden  pressure  will  stop  the 
car  immediately  or  slide  the  rear  wheels 
in  case  of  an  emergency. 

17. — Replace  the  transmission  cover 
door,  using  a  new  gasket. 

The  only  parts  now  necessary  for  the 
complete  assembly  of  the  engine  ready  to 
put  it  on  the  test  stand  are  the  timer, 
the  cylinder  head,  the  fan  with  its  belt 
and  other  apparatus,  the  valve  cover 
doors  and  the  manifolds.  New  gaskets 
should  be  used  all  around,  and  especially 
on  the  manifold,  as  a  leak  at  this  point 
will  result  in  poor  engine  operation,  es- 
pecially at  the  intake. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 
The  Ignition  System 


ASIDE  from  the  magneto,  which  was 
fully  covered  in  a  previous  chapter, 
we  have  to  deal  with  the  coils,  vi- 
brators, plugs,  timer  or  commutator, 
wiring  and  switch. 

The  coil  box  containing  the  four  coil 
units  is  fastened  to  the  rear  of  the  dash 
and  is  not  subject  to  trouble  ordinarily 
unless  in  case  of  accident  or  grounding 
of  some  part  of  the  connections.  When 
the  units  are  slipped  into  place,  the 
proper  contacts  are  automatically  made 
with  the  wiring  by  means  of  the  spring 
contacts.  If  there  is  not  a  good  electrical 
contact,  the  springs  either  do  not  press 
sufficiently  hard  against  the  contacts  or 
the  metal  has  become  corroded  and 
should  be  scraped  clean. 

The  spring  contacts  in  the  coil  box 
connect  with  the  porcelain  insulators 
which  extend  through  the  dash  over  the 
engine.  Sometimes  these  get  broken,  in 


which  case  the  current  from  the  high 
tension  leads  of  the  units  is  liable  to 
escape  to  the  dash  or  some  other  point 
and  so  put  that  lead  out  of  commission. 

Sitting  in  the  driver's  seat  and  looking 
toward  the  front  of  the  car,  the  coil  unit 
to  the  left  is  numbered  4  and  is  connected 
with  No.  4  spark  plug  from  the  bottom 
terminal  and  No.  4  contact  on  the  timer 
from  the  upper  terminal.  From  No.  4 
unit  at  the  left  the  figures  run,  reading 
toward  the  right,  3,  2  and  1,  each  of 
which  connects  with  a  similarly  numbered 
spark  plug  and  contact  on  the  timer,  the 
bottom  or  high  tension  wires  going  to 
the  plugs  and  the  upper  or  low  tension 
going  to  the  contacts  on  the  timer 
through  the  5-way  assembly. 

The  entire  electrical  system  on  the 
Ford,  including  ignition,  lights  and  horn, 
has  a  grounded  return,  or  in  other  words 
is  a  one-wire  system.  The  single  pole 


139 


140 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


from  which  the  current  is  taken  is  the 
magneto  terminal  on  top  of  the  trans- 
mission cover.  A  cable  or  wire  leads 
from  this  to  the  lower  left  terminal  on 
the  coil  box  (still  looking  from  the  driv- 


from  the  storage  battery  and  not  from 
the  magneto. 

In  wiring  from  the  coils  to  the  timer 
observe  the  following  method  connecting 
the  colored  wires  in  the  loom: 
A 


Fig.  90A — Wiring  diagram  of  the  Ford,  showing  the  ignition. 
This  diagram  does  not  apply  to  cars  with  electric  starters 


er's  seat).  To  this  are  also  connected 
the  wires  leading  to  the  horn  button  and 
the  lighting  switch.  In  the  case  of  the 
models  fitted  with  the  Ford  starting  and 
lighting  system,  this  wiring  is  changed 
somewhat  so  that  the  lights  operate 


No.  1— Black. 
No.  2— Red. 
No.  3— -Blue. 
No.  4 — 'Green. 

The  black  wire  connects  to  the  No.  1 
coil  terminal  and  the  No.  1  timer  con- 


THE    IGNITION    SYSTEM 


141 


tact,  the  red  to  the  No.  2  in  each  case 
and  so  on  for  the  others. 

Tn  overhauling  the  wiring,  observe  the 
following  points: 

1 — Examine  the  wiring  and  if  it  is  oil 

4  UNIT  COIL  BOX 


2 — See  that  connections  are  clean  and 
tight,  scraping  the  metal  if  necessary  to 
secure  a  good  metallic  contact. 

3 — Look  out  for  'broken  wires,  worn 
insulation,  mixed  wires  at  the  terminals, 


BATTEPr 
TERMINAL 


CONNECTION 


(»  LIGHT  SWITCH 


<3 


Fig.  90B — Wiring  diagram  of  Ford,  showing  the  lighting  and 

horn  circuits.     Note  that  this  diagram  does  not  apply  to  cars 

equipped  with  the  Ford  electric  starting  and  lighting  system 


soaked,  frayed  or  otherwise  in  damaged 
condition,  replace  it  with  new  wiring. 
This  is  furnished  cut  the  correct  length, 
in  loom  where  necessary  and  all  furnished 
with  the  necessary  terminal  connections. 


wires  so  attached  that  the  timer  wires 
touch  the  gear  cover,  loose  strand  touch- 
ing the  gear  cover  or  commutator  case. 
4 — Consult  th",  wiring  diagrams  in 
Figs.  90A  and  90B. 


142 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


THE   IGNITION    SYSTEM 


143 


The  Coil  Units 

When  any  considerable  quantity  of 
Ford  coil  units  have  to  be  tested  and 
adjusted,  the  use  of  a  coil-unit  testing 
machine  shown  in  Fig.  91  is  strongly  ad- 
vised. This  consists  essentially  of  a  Ford 
flywheel  with  its  assembly  of  magnets, 
the  whole  being  revolved  by  means  of 
a  crank  handle.  The  coil  assembly  is 
held  stationary  as  in  the  case  of  the  Ford 
engine  and  the  magnets  passing  before 
the  coils  produce  exactly  the  same  cur- 
rent as  in  the  engine.  The  current  is 
conducted  through  wires  to  contacts 
which  connect  by  springs  to  the  coil 
unit  when  one  is  inserted  in  the  recep- 
tacle provided  for  it.  The  high  tension 
current  is  then  conducted  on  one  side  to 
the  ring  surrounding  the  crank  and  on 
the  other  side  to  the  pointer  which  is  op- 
posite to  the  crank  and  which  revolves 
with  the  crank. 

Presuming  that  a  unit  is  in  place, 
1 — Turn  the  handle  around  at  a  mod- 
erate rate  of  speed, 


2 — Adjust  the  vibrator  screw  in  ot 
out,  as  the  case  may  be,  till  the  vibrator 
buzzes. 

3 — The  most  perfect  adjustment  is  ob- 
tained when  the  spark  is  seen  in  the  form 
of  a  circle  passing  between  the  pointer 
and  the  ring. 

4 — If  the  spark  only  appears  at  a  few 
points  on  the  circle,  the  adjustment  is 
not  correct  and  should  be  changed.  The 
more  nearly  the  sparks  assume  the  shape 
of  a  circle  around  the  ring,  the  more 
sparks  there  are  passing  at  the  points  of 
the  plug  when  the  unit  is  in  place  on 
the  car  and  the  more  perfect  the  ignition. 
A  smaller  number  of  sparks  reduces  the 
possible  chances  of  firing  the  mixture. 

5 — If  it  is  impossible  to  adjust  the 
unit  so  that  it  causes  this  circle  of 
sparks,  there  is  something  the  matter 
with  the  unit. 

6 — The  points  of  the  vibrator  may  be 
burned  or  not  trued  off  correctly  so  that 
it  is  impossible  to  secure  a  satisfactory 
contact.  In  such  case,  the  points  should 
be  either  dressed  off,  or  if  they  are  badly 


144 


MODERN    METHODS    OP    FORD    REPAIRING 


burned,  should  be  replaced  with  new 
ones. 

7— If  it  Is  impossible  to  secure  any 
spark  or  any  buzzing  at  all,  there  is 
either  a  broken  connection  in  the  coil  or 
the  condenser  is  punctured. 

8 — A  punctured  condenser  may  short 
circuit  the  primary  so  that  the  coil  will 
not  operate  at  all,  or  it  may  be  punctured 
in.  such  a  way  that  the  leaves  do  not 
short  circuit  each  other,  but  simply  allow 
excessive  sparking  at  the  contact  points. 

9 — The  best  remedy  for  a  damaged 
unit  is  to  replace  it  with  a  new  one. 

10 — The  voltmeter  on  the  machine  is 
need  to  check  up  the  voltage  given  out 
by  the  magneto.  At  normal  speeds  it 
should  give  about  18  volts.  It  should 
be  possible  to  produce  a  spark  at  the 
points  when  the  machine  is  running  so 
slowly  that  only  6  volts  are  being 
produced. 

11— ! Another  cause  of  trouble  is  moist- 
ure in  the  coil  units.  This  may  possibly 
be  remedied  by  a  slow  drying  out.  It 
should  not  be  remedied  by  putting  the 


unit  in  a  very  hot  place,  such  as  an  oven, 
as  this  will  only  melt  the  insulating 
compound  in  the  unit  and  more  trouble 
will  result. 

Spark  Plugs 

The  best  and  quickest  way  to  conduct 
repairs  on  epark  plugs  is  to  put  new 
ones  in  where  there  is  any  doubt  about 
their  performance.  The  small  expense 
involved  will  be  repaid  in  the  better  run- 
ning of  the  engine,  and  any  faults  that 
develop  in  the  test  can  be  better  and 
easier  located  if  the  repairman  is  sure 
that  the  plugs  are  all  right. 

1 — In  case  of  doubt  about  a  plug,  the 
trouble  will  either  be  a  short  circuit 
from  carbon  on  the  lower  part  of  the 
insulator,  a  short  circuit  from  a  broken 
or  cracked  porcelain  or  incorrect  gapping 
of  the  electrodes. 

2 — If  the  plug  is  otherwise  perfect,  the 
carbon  can  be  cleaned  off  the  porcelain 
t>y  unscrewing  the  compression  nut  and 
wiping  the  carbon  off  with  a  rag  soaked 
in  gasoline.  If  the  carbon  does  not  re- 
spond to  this  treatment,  it  may  be 


THE    IGNITION    SYSTEM 


145 


scraped  off,  but  care  must  be  used  not 
to  scrape  the  glazed  surface  off  the  por- 


8 — In  reassembling  the  plug,  be  sure 
that  there  is  no  dirt  or  grit  and  set  the 


Fig.  92 — Spark  plugs  are  tested 

with  a,  screivdriver  by  shorting 

them  to  the  cylinder  block 


Fig.  93 — The  terminals  of  the  coil  units 
can  be  conveniently  shorted  to  the  radi- 
ator stay  rod  with  a  screwdriver 


celain,  as  this  will  allow  the  carbon  to 
accumulate   more   rapidly   at  this  point 


nut  up  tight  so  that  the  porcelain  makes 
a  tight  fit  against  the  gaskets.    Leakage 


146 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


at  this  point  can  be  tested  when  the 
plug  is  in  the  engine  by  pouring  a  few 
drops  of  oil  around  it.  When  the  engine 
is  running,  bubbles  will  appear  if  there 
is  a  leak. 

4 — A  broken  porcelain  is  usually  evi- 
denced by  the  upper  part  of  the  porcelain 
being  loose.  It  usually  breaks  just  at 
the  lower  part  of  the  stem. 

5 — A  cracked  porcelain  can  sometimes 
be  identified  by  looking  at  the  plug  in 
a  dark  place  when  the  current  is  passing 
through.  A  leak  will  show  up  by  the 
spark  jumping  through  it  at  this  point. 

6 — The  electrodes  should  be  clean  and 
should  be  gapped  about  1/32  in.  This 
is  about  the  thickness  of  a  worn  dime. 
If  the  construction  of  the  plug  admits-, 
the  electrodes  should  be  bent  so  that  the 
oil  will  run  away  from  the  gap  by  grav- 
ity and  not  down  to  the  gap. 

7 — The  size  of  the  plug  is  %-in.  pipe 
thread  which  has  a  taper  of  %  in.  to 
the  foot,  so  that  when  the  plug  is  screwed 
in  it  forms  a  tight  joint  without  the 
necessity  of  a  gasket  The  length  of 


the  plug  should  'be  such  that  the 
electrodes  just  extend  down  into  the 
combustion  chamber.  If  a  plug  has  been 
designed  so  that  the  hexagonal  part  of 
the  shell  extends  pretty  well  up, 
this  will  facilitate  easy  removal  and 
replacement. 

8 — While  plugs  can  be  tested  with  a 
6-volt  current  from  a  battery,  the  most 
accurate  tests  are  secured  by  using  the 
testing  machine  which  produces  just  ex- 
actly the  same  current  as  the  magneto 
an  the  Ford  engine. 

9 — Methods  of  testing  the  plugs  and 
coil  terminals  by  shorting  them  one  at  a 
time  are  shown  in  Figs.  92  -and  93. 

The  Timer 

The  timer  is  probably  the  cause  of  aa 
much  trouble  as  all  the  rest  of  the  ig- 
nition apparatus  put  together,  and  the 
trouble  is  mainly  due  to  improper  care 
on  the  part  of  the  owner.  The  timer 
should  be  lubricated  regularly  and  fre- 
quently with  very  light  oil*  and  if  it  is 
neglected,  there  is  an  accumulation  of 


THE    IGNITION    SYSTEM 


147 


gummy  oil  that  covers  the  contacts  and 
it  is  difficult  if  not  impossible  to  get 


Fig,  94 — The  Ford  timer,  with  the 
shell  remove^  to  show  the  ports 

the   current  to   pass    across    this    gap. 
Regular  oiling  is  the  only  way  to  keep 
the  timer  working  correctly. 
The  correct  lubrication  of  the   timer 


determines  very  directly  the  wear  on  the 
parts  and  consequently  the  life  of  the 
timer.  When  not  lubricated,  parts  of  the 
shell  wear  and  other  parts  wear  more 
slowly  so  that  the  shell  does  not  present 
a  true  circle.  The  result  is  that  when 
the  engine  gets  to  running  at  any  fair 
rate  of  speed,  the  roller  jumps  over 
some  of  the  contacts,  and  the  units  con- 
nected to  these  missed  contacts  fail  to 
buzz,  consequently  that  cylinder  misses. 
This  is  a  particularly  frequent  trouble. 

1 — The  quickest  and  best  remedy  for 
this  is  to  replace  the  timer  shell  with  a 
new  one  and  also  replace  the  roller  and 
arm  if  there  is  any  wear  apparent.  It 
Is  difficult  and  expensive  to  turn  the 
timer  shells  out  and  the  tool  usually 
jumps  into  the  soft  fiber  so  that  it  is 
practically  impossible  to  turn  the  timer 
shell  out  to  a  true  circle.  Grinding  will 
produce  a  true  circle,  but  usually  the 
expense  of  setting  up  the  parts  is  out  of 
all  proportion  to  the  ends  attained. 

2 — The  roller  should  press  against  the 
shell  with  sufficient  force  to  make  a  good 
electrical  contact  with  the  metal  seg- 


148 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


ments.  Sometimes  the  arm  becomes  bent 
and  in  such  a  case  it  should  be  bent  back 
to  its  correct  position.  When  the  timer 
shell  is  taken  off,  the  roller  should  extend 
to  a  point  about  %  in.  further  out  than 
the  inside  circle  of  the  shell.  A  screw- 
driver placed  under  the  roller  as  shown 


bending  of  this  rod  possible  is  shown  in 
Fig.  96. 


Pig,  96 — A  bending  bar  for  bend- 
ing the  timer  pull  rod 

in  Fig.  95  will  bend  the  arm  out  to  this 
position. 

3 — The  commutator  pull  rod  not  only 
advances  and  retards  the  spark,  but  is 
also  the  adjustment  as  to  the  timing  of 
the  spark  as  related  to  the  spark  lever 
on  the  steering  wheel.  The  shorter  the 
rod,  the  earlier  the  spark,  and  vice  versa. 
If  the  rod  is  bent,  therefore,  it  will  be 
shortened. 

A  tool  to  make   the   quick   and  easy 


Fig.  95 — The  roller  arm  can  be-  pried 
out  with  a  screwdriver 

4 — The  ordinary  troubles  that  may  be 
looked  for  in  the  switch  are  shown  in 
Fig.  97. 


THE    IGNITION    SYSTEM 


149 


Fig.  97  —  The  switch  may  cause 
trouble.  A  shows  possible  loose 
or  poorly  made  connections  short- 
ing into  switch  housing.  B  shows 
possible  wires  grounding  at  point 
of  entering  switch  housing  or  con- 
duit on  steering  column 


Where  the  wiring  is  at  all  ragged  or 
soaked  with  oil  or  water,  it  should  be  re- 
placed. In  replacing  wiring,  it  will  save 
much  time  to  use  the  standard  Ford  wir-« 
ing  assembly  in  which  the  wires  are  all 
cut  to  the  correct  length.  The  wires  ara 
all  furnished  with  terminals  and  are  the 
proper  color  in  every  case  so  that  they 
can  be  connected  up  by  anyone  with  the 
assistance  of  the  regular  wiring  diagram. 

The  terminals  should  all  be  tight,  but 
care  should  be  exercised  not  to  pull  the 
nuts  up  so  tight  that  the  stems  will  be 
broken  off.  As  a  general  rule,  set  them 
hand  tight  and  then  give  them  a  half 
turn  with  a  pair  of  pliers.  This  will  pre- 
vent any  of  the  terminals  from  coming 
loose. 

As  far  as  possible,  arrange  the  wiring 
so  that  the  terminal  points  in  the  direc- 
tion that  the  wire  is  to  take.  This  will 
prevent  making  awkward  bends  in  either 
the  wire  or  the  terminals,  as  these  turns 
are  liable  to  break  under  vibration.  As 
an  extra  precaution,  see  that  all  the  con- 
nections are  bright  and  clean  and,  if  they 
are  not,  scrape  them  till  they  are. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


Testing  the  Engine 


THE  completion  of  all  the  overhaul 
operations  described  in  the  previous 
chapters  now  leaves  the  engine  and 
transmission  ready  for  running-in  and 
testing.  In  order  to  carry  out  this  work, 
some  kind  of  a  stand  must  be  used  to 
hold  the  engine  rigidly  in  place  and  the 
stand  should  be  fitted  up  so  that  the 
engine  can  be  quickly  fastened  in  place 
and  connected  up  so  that  as  little  time 
will  be  lost  in  this  operation  as  possible. 
One  of  these  is  shown  in  Fig.  98. 

The  stand  will  serve  two  purposes, 
running-in  and  testing. 

1- — Three  quick  clamping  devices  are 
required,  two  at  the  rear  engine  supports 
and  one  at  the  front  engine  bearing*. 
These  consist  simply  of  U-shaped  loops 
riveted  or  bolted  to  the  stand  and  having 
hand  screws  to  tighten  the  arms  against 
the  stand.  When  they  are  unscrewed  a 
little  way,  the  loop  can  be  thrown  back 


150 


and  the  engine  lifted  out.  In  lifting  the 
engine  in  and  out  of  the  stand,  use  the 
engine  tongs  which  were  described  and 
illustrated  in  the  early  chapters. 

2 — After  clamping  the  engine  in  posi- 
tion, the  water  connections  must  be  con- 
nected to  some  source  of  water  supply. 
This  can  either  be  city  pressure  in  which 
a  small  quantity  of  cold  water  from  the 
city  mains  is  allowed  to  pass  through 
the  water  jackets,  or  a  hopper  system 
shown  in  Fig.  99  in  which  the  same 
water  is  used  over  and  over  until  it  evap- 
orates or  gets  dirty,  in  which  case  it  is 
renewed. 

3 — The  hopper  system  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred as  it  makes  testing  conditions  as 
nearly  like  actual  operating  conditions  as 
possible, 

4 — Install  a  boiler  or  tank  of  about  40 
to  50  gal.  capacity  on  a  stand  in  such  a 
position  that  the  lower  end  of  the  boiler 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


151 


Fig.  98 — One  type  of  engine  testing  and  running -in  stand  in  which  the  belt 
supplies  the  power  from  an  outside  source 


152 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


will  be  below  the  level  of  the  lowest  point 
of  the  water  jacket  of  the  engine  when 
it  is  in  place  on  the  engine  stand.  The 
boiler  should  not  be  more  than  6  or  8  ft. 
away  from  the  engine. 

5 — Two  water  connections  are  to  be 
made  in  the  boiler,  using  at  least  1  in. 
pipe  connections  to  secure  a  sufficient 
flow  of  water  to  allow  for  proper  cool- 
ing. One  of  these  is  made  near  the 
bottom  of  the  boiler  and  is  connected 
to  the  inlet  water  connection  of  the 
engine,  the  other  being  made  at  a  point 
in  the  side  of  the  boiler  about  8  in.  above 
the  level  of  the  outlet  water  connection 
of  the  engine  when  it  is  in  place  on 
the  stand.  This  is  connected  to  the  out- 
let water  connection. 

6 — The  top  of  the  boiler  is  left  open, 
either  removing  the  pipe  plug  which  is 
usually  a  stock  fitting  on  a  boiler  or  else 
cutting  a  hole  about  2  in.  in  diameter 
at  this  point.  This  opening  is  to  permit 
the  escape  of  steam  and  to  allow  a 
water  gage  to  be  installed  so  that  the 
operator  can  know  at  all  times  how  much 
water  there  is  in  the  boiler. 


7 — The  proper  amount  of  water  to 
carry  in  the  boiler  will  depend  on  the 
temperature  of  the  air,  hot  weather  re- 
quiring a  larger  amount  than  cold 
weather. 

8 — Another  connection  can  be  fitted 
for  filling  the  boiler  from  the  city  sup- 
ply when  such  filling  is  necessary  or  else 
the  water  can  be  put  in  through  the 
opening  in  the  top.  The  gage  men- 
tioned in  the  previous  paragraph  is 
shown  in  a  general  way  in  Fig.  99,  but 
this  may  be  altered  to  suit  the  fancy. 

9 — 'When  the  connections  are  com- 
pleted, the  water  will  have  a  natural 
circulation  through  the  water  jackets  of 
the  engine  and  the  boiler  and  the  engine 
will  be  cooled,  but  will  run  at  a  tempera- 
ture near  the  boiling  point  of  water 
which  is  the  proper  temperature  to  run 
and  test  the  engine. 

10 — If  the  city  pressure  is  to  be  used 
in  cooling  the  engine,  cocks  must  be  in- 
serted in  the  line  to  control  the  water  as 
too  much  will  make  the  engine  run  too 
cold  and  will  not  allow  of  proper  testing. 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


153 


A  convenient  way  is  to  have  two  cocks  in 
the  supply  pipe,  one  a  globe  valve  which 
has  a  screw  handle  and  the  other  a  lever 


handle.  The  screw  handle  can  be  regu- 
lated to  allow  the  right  amount  of  water 
to  pass,  then  simply  opening  or  shutting 


Fig.  99— Diagram  showing  the  water  connections  for  the  hopper  system 

of  cooling 


154 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


the  lever  handle  will  allow  the  water  to 
pass  or  cut  it  off  and  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  make  the  adjustment  every  time 


Fig.  WO— Details  of 
inlet  and  outlet  wa- 
ter   connections    for 
testing 


the  engine  is  started  up  or  a  new  engine 
put  on  the  stand.  This  arrangement  is 
shown  in  Fig.  101. 

11 — The  special  water  connections  to 
be  used  with  either  of  these  two  methods 
are  shown  in  Fig.  100.  The  rubber  hose 


fits  tightly  over  the  end  and  is  secured 
with  a  hose  clamp. 

12 — An  important  point  in  the  instal- 
lation is  the  piping  of  the  exhaust.  This 
should  be  piped  to  the  outside  air  by  all 
means,  as  the  exhaust  is  not  only  dis- 
agreeable, but  highly  poisonous  and  will 


Fig.  101— Two  cocks  installed  on  the 
water  line  permit  of  quick  action 

have  a  very  bad  effect  on  the  workmen  in 
the  shop.  It  is  quite  an  easy  matter  to 
make  up  a  permanent  exhaust  pipe  from 
the  testing  stand  to  the  outside  air,  using 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


155 


a  regular  Ford  exhaust  pipe  and  pack 
nut  to  make  connection  with  the  engine 
to  be  tested.  As  vhis  pipe  gets  quite 
hot,  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  come  in 
contact  or  near  any  wood,  oil,  grease,  or 
anything  else  which  would  be  liable  to 
take  fire  from  the  heat.  It  should  also 
be  so  protected  that  workmen  will  not 
get  burned  on  it. 

13 — After  the  engine  is  run-in,  which 
will  be  covered  later  in  this  chapter,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  run  the  engine  under 
its  own  power  fox  a  time  to  discover 
whether  there  are  any  faults  in  any  of 
the  parts  and  also  to  Mmbeor  it  up  a 
little.  For  this  purpose,  in  addition  to 
the  water  and  exhaust  connections,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  hook  up  the  ignition 
and  the  gasoline.  The  general  practice 
in  the  matter  of  ignition  is  to  have  a  set 
of  coils  attached  to  some  kind  of  a  swing- 
ing support  close  to  the  testing  stand. 
The  wire  is  maintained  on  this  test  set; 
of  coils,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  con- 
nect the  proper  wires  to  the  timer,  the 
magneto  contact  to  the  magneto  terminal 


and  the  cables  to  the  spark  plugs.  The 
engine  being  tested  will  then  generate 
its  own  current,  using  the  timer  which 
will  be  left  on  the  engine.  When  the 
engine  is  to  be  taken  off  the  stand,  the 
wires  are  simply  unhooked  and  the  sup- 
port with  the  coils  on  it  swung  back  out 
of  the  way. 

14 — The  supply  of  gasoline  for  testing 
the  engine  is  taken  from  a  small  tank, 
holding  a  gallon  or  less,  a  regular  feed 
pipe  and  connection  being  left  on  the 
tank  so  that  it  can  be  quickly  attached 
to  the  carbureter.  Some  engine  testing 
stands  have  a  tank  as  part  of  the  regu- 
lar equipment. 

Running  the  Engine  In 

The  engine  should  be  run-in  from  out- 
side power  for  a  period  of  from  1  to  2 
hr.,  or  until  it  has  lost  most  of  its 
stiffness.  Here  are  some  suggestions  foi 
use  in  connection  with  runriing-in: 

1 — Fill  the  crankcase  with  oi!  to  the 
level  of  the  top  cock  and  then  add  about 
1  qt,  more. 


156  MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  102 — An  electric  motor  rigged  up  in  connection  with  an  engine  testing 
stand  in  such  a  way  that  the  motor  starts  the  engine 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


157 


2 — Squirt  a  generous  quantity  of  oil 
in  on  top  of  the  pistons  through  the 
spark-plug  holes  and  souse  plenty  of  oil 
on  the  valves,  tappets,  pedal  mechanism, 
etc. 

3 — If  a  combined  test  stand  and  burn- 
ing-in  stand  is  used,  the  power  from  the 
belt  is  used  and  this  should  be  applied 
gradually  at  first  so  as  not  to  put  too 
much  strain  on  any  particular  part  that 
may  be  stiff  or  may  not  yet  have  gotten 
its  supply  of  oil  from  the  lubrication 
system. 

4 — If  a  separate  engine  testing  stand 
is  used,  apply  the  power  in  whatever  way 
it  is  intended  to  be  applied.  Fig.  102 
shows  an  installation  which  combines  a 
testing  and  running-in  stand  with  an 
electric  motor  which  is  used  to  start  up 
and  run  the  engine.  As  soon  as  the 
engine  runs  under  its  own  power,  the 
motor  is  shifted  back  out  of  the  way  and 
the  current  cut  off.  Fig.  103  shows  detail. 

'5 — After  running  under  outside  power 
for  about  1  hr.,  shut  off  the  power  and 
try  to  turn  the  engine  over  with  the  hand 


Fig.  103 — A  close  up  view  of  the 
motor  shifting  meoha/n&sm 


158 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig.  1  0  4  —  The 
clutch  is  held  in 
neutral  with  a 
block  of  wood 
which  is  cut  the 
right  length  to 
go  between  the 
crook  on  the 
pedal  and  one  of 
the  crankcase 
bolts.  This  block 
should  hold  the 
pedal  out  about 
2  itt. 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


159 


crank.  Experience  will  tell  when  the 
bearings  and  other  parts  have  loosened 
up  enough  to  start  running  the  engine 
under  its  own  power.  It  should  be  pos- 
sible to  lift  the  crank  without  too  much 
exertion, 

6 — The  gasoline  can  now  be  turned  on 
and  the  switch  thrown  on  and  if  the 
carbureter  is  given  approximately  the 
correct  adjustment  at  the  needle  valve 
the  engine  should  start.  If  it  stops  after 
the  outside  power  is  thrown  off,  then 
there  is  either  poor  compression,  a  bad 
mixture,  or  the  engine  is  still  too  stiff. 

7 — After  the  proper  remedy  has  been 
applied  for  this  condition,  run  the  engine 
under  its  own  power  for  a  period  of  from 
1  to  2  or  3  hr.  It  should  be  stopped  at 
intervals  after  the  first  hour  and  tested 
with  the  hand  crank.  As  soon  as  the 
engine  can  be  cranked  without  too  great 
difficulty,  the  test  can  be  terminated  as 
it  will  loosen  up  a  good  deal  in  the  first 
few  miles  of  running  after  it  is  installed 
in  the  car. 

8 — While   the   engine   is   running   and 


during  the  test,  the  clutch  may  be  held 
in  neutral  by  cutting  a  block  of  wood 
to  fit  between  the  clutch  pedal  and  one 
of  the  crankcase  bolts  as  shown  in  Fig. 
104.  The  clufech  should  be  out  about 
2  in. 

9 — While  the  engine  is  running  under 
its  own  power,  the  clutch,  reverse  and 
foot  brake  should  be  tested.  This  can  be 
done  by  manipulating  the  pedals  by  hand. 
For  instance,  holding  the  clutch  in  neu- 
tral with  the  block, 

10 — Push  in  the  reverse  pedal.  It 
should  turn  the  shaft  at  the  rear  end  of 
the  engine  in  the  opposite  direction  with- 
out any  noise. 

11 — Push  the  clutch  pedal  all  the  way 
forward  and  try  the  low  speed. 

12 — While  one  of  the  gears  is  in,  apply 
the  foot  brake  slowly  and  see  that  it 
takes  hold  and  slows  down  the  engine. 

Engine  Noises 

During  the  test  the  operator  must 
watch  out  for  unusual  noises  which 
would  tend  to  indicate  something  wrong 
with  the  assembly. 


160 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Here  are  some  things  that  may  happen: 

1 — Bearing  knocks.  Either  main  or 
connecting  rod,  caused  either  by  bear- 
ings which  have  not  been  burned  in 
properly  or  through  oil  not  getting  to  the 
bearings  as  soon  as  the  engine  is  run  on 
the  stand. 

2 — Knocks  caused  by  pistons  or  rings 
sticking  and  seizing  in  the  cylinders. 
This  is  caused  by  pistons  which  are  too 
tight  or  rings  which  have  not  been  filed 
off  enough  at  the  lap  joints.  Sometimes 
this  can  be  remedied  by  running-in  a 
little  longer  with  an  extra  supply  of  oil 
at  the  places  which  bind. 

3 — Timing  gear  noises.  These  might 
take  the  form  of  a  grind,  indicating  that 
the  timing  gears  are  meshed  too  tight 
or  a  gear  rattle,  indicating  that  the  gears 
are  meshed  too  loosely.  There  is  really 
nothing  that  can  be  done  with  gears 
that  are  meshed  too  loosely  excepting  to 
tear  down  the  engine  again  and  do  the 
job  .properly.  A  slight  grind  may  dis- 
appear after  the  engine  gets  worn  a 


little.  This  is  especially  true  with  new 
gears. 

4 — Valve  noises  may  be  caused  by 
improper  clearance  between  the  tappets 
and  the  valve  stems.  If  the  engine 
misses,  and  the  missing  can  be  corrected 
by  inserting  the  blade  of  a  screwdriver 
between  the  coils  of  any  one  of  the  valve 
springs,  this  indicates  that  the  particular 
spring  is  weak  and  it  should  be  replaced 
with  one  which  has  the  right  amount  of 
tension. 

5 — Improper  timing  of  the  valves 
would  be  indicated  by  a  refusal  of  the 
engine  to  start  or  by  impossibility  of 
keeping  it  running  after  it  was  started. 
This  can  be  roughly  checked  up  by  taking 
out  the  No.  1  spark  plug  and  noting 
whether  the  piston  is  at  its  top  stroke 
when  the  exhaust  valve  just  closes  and 
the  inlet  just  starts  to  open.  The  piston 
should  rock  on  top  stroke  between  these 
two  valve  positions.  If  the  first  cylinder 
is  right  the  others  are  bound  to  be 
right.  The  timing  of  the  ignition  is 
very  simple  and  the  adjustment  of  the 


TESTING    THE    ENGINE 


161 


pull  rod  was  taken  up  in  the  chapter  on 
ignition. 

6 — Loss  of  compression,  evidenced  by 
lack  of  power,  may  be  caused  by  leaky 
valves,  leaky  rings  or  leaks  around  the 
spark  plugs  or  cylinder-head  gasket.  The 
latter  two  can  be  checked  up  by  dropping 
a  little  oil  around  the  plugs  and  the  edges 
of  the  gasket.  Leaks  will  be  evidenced 
by  bubbles  through  the  oil  in  the  case 
of  slight  leaks  or  by  forcible  blowing  out 
of  the  oil  in  the  case  of  bad  lea"ks.  Apply 
the  proper  remedy  in  either  case. 

7 — Compression  leaks  through  valves 
or  around  rings  can  be  tested  by  pulling 
the  crank  handle  slowly  against  compres- 
sion for  one  cylinder  at  a  time.  As  a 
rule,  the  compression  can  be  heard  leak- 
ing out  in  addition  to  the  ease  with  which 
the  crank  handle  can  be  pulled  up. 

8 — A  defective  cylinder-head  gasket 
or  a  crack  in  the  cylinder  may  allow 
water  to  enter  the  cylinder.  This  will 
be  shown  by  an  accumulation  of  water 
on  the  points  of  the  plug  in  the  defective 
cylinder.  Water  in  any  considerable 


amount  will  cause  missing  through  the 
water  short-circuiting  the  plug,  but  a 
very  slight  amount  may  be  turned  into 
steam  while  the  engine  is  running  and 
is  hot,  so  that  a  slight  defect  would  not 
be  noticed  until  after  the  engine  has 
cooled  off  a  bit. 

9 — After  the  engine  has  been  run  in 
and  tested,  the  oil  should  be  drained  out, 
the  crankcase  washed  out  with  kerosene 
and  a  fresh  supply  of  oil  put  in  the 
crankcase,  filling  the  level  to  the  top 
cock,  and  then  adding  about  %  pt.  This 
will  give  ample  lubrication  to  the  re- 
built engine  and  at  the  same  time  it  will 
not  be  excessive  so  as  to  cause  fouling 
of  the  plugs.  The  owner  should  be 
cautioned  to  keep  the  level  of  oil  right 
up  to  the  top  cock,  especially  during  the 
first  200  miles.  Carrying  the  level  near 
the  lower  cock  means  more  rapid  wear 
and  a  hotter  running  engine. 

10 — In  testing  the  engine  on  the  stand, 
a  timer  advance  device  can  be  rigged  up 
out  of  an  old  timer  pull  rod  to  hold  the 
timer  in  the  desired  position. 


CHAPTER  XX 
The  Radiator 


A  FORD  radiator  brought  into  the 
shop  for  repairs  is  usually  in 
such  bad  shape  that  it  has  to  be 
taken  up  to  the  bench  and  taken  down 
to  effect  proper  repairs.  The  condition 
is  due  in  many  cases  to  the  ignorance  or 
carelessness  of  the  operator,  and  when 
tjhe  cause  of  the  trouble  is  ascertained, 
some  advice  to  the  operator  would  not 
be  amiss.  The  causes  of  leaking  may  be 
divided  roughly  into — 

1 — Freezing. 

2—-Shaking  apart  through  rough  driv- 
ing or  the  use  of  solid  tires. 

8 — Radiator  support  breaking  from 
same  causes  as  No.  2. 

4 — Chafing  caused  by  worn  hood 
leathers. 

5 — Puncture  caused  by  accident. 

Regardless  of  the  cause  of  the  leak 
or  the  kind  of  leak,  the  repairshop 
should  be  equipped  to  fix  it.  There  are 


two  separate  and  distinct  operations  to 
be  gone  through  in  overhauling  the 
radiator:  testing  and  repairing. 
A  testing  outfit  should  include: 
1 — A  testing  tank,  which  is  a  wooden 
trough  large  enough  tfo  immerse  the 
whole  radiator  with  sufficient  room  to 
allow  the  hands  to  get  around  the  edges. 
Sometimes  this  trough  is  built  out  of 
wood  alone,  the  joints  being  made  very 
close  and  caulked  with  cotton,  the  same 
as  the  seams  in  a  boat.  The  usual  way, 
however,  is  to  have  it  lined  with  a  sheet 
of  galvanized  iron  or  other  metal,  the 
joints  being  soldered.  This  absolutely 
prevents  any  leaking  as  long  as  a  hole 
is  not  punched  in  the  sheet  metal,  and 
in  this  case  the  wood  only  acts  as  a 
support.  It  is  very  convenient  to  have 
a  drain  board  on  one  side  of  the  tank  so 
that  after  the  radiator  is  tested  in  the 
water,  it  can  be  laid  on  the  board  to 


162 


THE    RADIATOR 


163 


STEEL  COLLAR. 
STEEL  BLOCK      \ 


mi  WASHER1 
OUTLET 


Fig.  105 — Rubber  compression  plug  used  for  making  tight  joints  at  inlet 
and  outlet  pipes  and  filler  cap.     The  left  view  shows  the  cam  released 

f,™J  «f   +l,n  ^'«fc*  „•«  ~    n~~+Z^~1  ».;*»„   ».<H-l>    *Z,x,    nftnnn    x7^.wt 


MODERN  METHODS  OP  FORD  REPAIRING 


drain  and  the  water  will  drain  back 
into  the  tank.  This  makes  for  a  dry 
shop  as  there  is  no  necessity  for  splash- 
ing water  all  over  the  floor. 

2 — A  set  of  plugs  to  stop  up  the  inlet 
and    outlet   water    connections    and    the 


may  be,  there  being  one  plug  for  each 
of  these  openings.  In  operation,  the 
plug  is  shoved  in  as  far  as  it  will  go 
and  the  cam  is  then  tightened.  Tighten- 
ing the  earn  compresses  the  rubber  and 
expands  it  outward,  forming  a  water 


mnm 


1UULI  LI  L  T 


inn  n 


Fig.  106 — A  bent  tube  is  straightened  by  running  a  rod  through  it 


filler  neck,  Some  of  these  are  shown  in 
Fig.  105.  Each  one  consists  of  three 
rubber  packing  disks  and  a  soft  rubber 
disk,  all  mounted  on  a  bolt  and  capable 
of  being  compressed  by  a  steel  block 
and  a  cam.  The  disks  are  cut  to  fit  the 
inlet,  outlet  or  filler  neck  as  the  case 


and  air-tight  opening.  When  it  is  de- 
sired to  remove  the  plug,  the  cam  is 
simply  pulled  up  and  the  plug  comes 
right  out. 

31— Air  pressure  from  a  tank  or  a 
shop  pump  is  necessary.  The  pressure 
is  applied  to  the  overflow  pipe  after  the 


THE    RADIATOR 


165 


other  openings  are  closed  up,  then  the 
radiator  is  immersed  in  the  water  con- 
tained in  the  testing  tank.  The  air 


for  the  repairman.  After  the  repairing 
is  all  finished,  the  radiator  should  be 
tested  again  to  check  up  the  work  and 


"lllllllll 


3    £7 


Fig,  107 — These  sketches  show  the  stages  m  inserting  a  tube 


pressure  will  force  its  way  through  any 
leaks  that  may  be  in  any  part  of  the 
radiator  and  these  can  then  be  marked 


insure  the  stoppage  of  all  leaks.  The 
pressure  used  for  testing  radiators 
should  not  exceed  a  maximum  of  15  lb., 


166 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


and  10  Ib.  will  be  found  sufficient  to 
locate  any  leak.  More  than  15  Ib.  is 
likely  to  put  a  serious  strain  on  the 
headers.  In  case  this  low  pressure  is 
not  available,  the  line  pressure  in  the 
shop  should  be  reduced  by  some  kind  o£ 
a  regulator. 

4 — It  is  convenient  to  have  full  line 
pressure  of  from  100  to  150  Ib.  avail- 
able for  blowing  the  water  and  dirt  from 
around  places  in  the  radiator  that  are 
to  be  soldered.  This  should  be  brought 
from  one  of  the  stop  cocks  through  a 
rubber  or  flexible  metallic  hose  to  a 
short  piece  of  pipe  drawn  out  to  a  sort 
of  jet  about  3/16  in.  diameter.  After 
the  radiator  has  been  tested,  this  jet 
of  air  will  quickly  drive  off  the  water 
and  dry  the  spot  up  so  that  it  can  be 
soldered. 

The  results  of  the  test  and  a  careful 
examination  will  indicate  the  kind  of  a 
repair  to  make  on  the  radiator.  A  slight 
leak  in  one,  two  or  three  tubes  can  be 
repaired  by  inserting  special  thin  repair 
tubes  in  the  original  tubes,  soldering 


these  in  place.  This  will  stop  the  leaks, 
but  the  additional  thickness  of  the  metal 
at  these  points  will  result  in  a  reduction 
of  the  cooling  efficiency  of  the  radiator, 
and  this  kind  of  repair  should  not  be 
used  when  more  than  three  tubes  leak. 

When  the  support  which  extends  across 
the  lower  part  of  the  radiator  is  broken 
loose  at  the  sides  through  jarring,  the 
outside  bands  of  the  radiator  are  usually 
cracked  or  broken  also,  and  if  no  serious 
damage  had  been  done  to  the  tubes 
the  support  can  be  anchored  again  and 
new  side  panels  put  in  the  radiator.  In 
many  cases,  however,  the  breaking  away 
of  the  support  also  chafes  or  tears  some 
of  the  tubes  and  a  more  extensive  repair 
job  is  necessary. 

In  any  one  of  these  repairs,  the  radia- 
tor will  have  to  be  torn  down  by  un- 
soldering the  sides  and  opening  the  top 
and  bottom  headers.  New  tubes  or  re- 
pair tubes  can  then  be  inserted  without 
any  trouble. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  equipment 
that  is  necessary  in  radiator  work: 


THE    RADIATOR 


167 


Oxy-acetylene     welding     outfit     with 
smallest  tip. 
Solder. 

Soldering  compound. 
Scrapers. 
Light  hammer. 
Punch. 
Knife. 
Pliers. 

Rod  for  straightening  tubes. 
Emery  paper. 

I—The  welding  outfit  with  small  tip 
is  used  both  for  soldering  and  for  break- 
ing joints.  Properly  used,  it  can  melt 
the  solder  just  at  the  desired  points 
without  allowing  other  joints  to  come 
apart.  A  large  flame  is  absolutely  use- 
less, as  the  flame  and  consequently  the 
heat  cannot  be  confined  to  a  small  com- 
pass, and  when  you  solder  up  one  place 
two  or  three  other  places  come  un- 
soldered. 

The  soldering  compound  used  depends 
largely  upon  personal  likes  and  dislikes. 
The  most  common  material  is  muriatic 
or  hydrochloric  acid  which  has  had  zinc 


Fig.   108 — This  is   a  handy  stand 

for    soldering    and   working    on   a 

radiator 


168 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


dissolved  in  it  until  it  will  not  act  on 
any  additional  metal  which  is  put  into 
it.  This  is  called  "killed"  acid  because 
it  still  retains  its  power  of  cleaning  the 
metal,  but  has  lost  its  strength  so  that 
it  will  not  bite  very  deep  into  the  metaL 
The  purpose  of  a  soldering  compound  is 
to  clean  the  dirt  and  oxide  off  the  metal 
so  that  the  solder  can  get  hold.  Acid, 
although  commonly  used,  is  not  the  best 
material  in  the  world  to  use  because 
some  of  its  power  is  still  available,  and 
if  the  joint  is  not  perfect  a  small  en- 
closed bubble  of  acid  may  in  time  eat 
through  the  joint.  Various  compounds 
of  rosin  and  sal  ammoniac  are  just  as 
effective  on  brass  and  copper,  the  usual 
components  of  radiators,  and  there  is  no 
after-effect.  However,  the  metal  should 
be  scraped  or  cleaned  up  with  emery 
paper  first,  whereas  the  acid  does  not 
need  this  preparation  unless  the  dirt 
is  caked  en  too  thick. 

Inserting  Repair  Tubes 

To  permit  of  the  insertion   of  repair 
tubes,  the  radiator  tubes  must  first  be 


straightened.  This  is  done  by  running 
a  length  of  rod  through  each  tube,  the 
rod  being  fitted  with  a  file  handle  and 
having  a  rounded  end  so  that  it  will 
push  out  the  bent  places  without  cutting 
the  metal  away.  (See  Fig.  106,  page 
164.) 

1— <Make  both  ends  of  the  leaky  tubes 
beH  mouthed  and  scrape  the  insides 
clean  with  a  knife  as  far  as  can  be 
reached. 

2 — Slide  the  repair  tube  into  the  other 
tube  and  cut  the  end  off  so  that  it  ex- 
tends about  1/16  in.  at  each  end. 

3 — Apply  soldering  compound  to  the 
tube  ends. 

4 — Using  the  small  tip  of  the  gas  jet, 
heat  the  tip  of  the  thin  inner  tube  and 
run  the  solder  into  the  bell  shaped  open- 
ing that  has  been  formed. 

Where  the  radiator  is  very  badly 
damaged,  it  may  be  wise  to  insert  a 
whole  new  core  and  if  the  headers  and 
sides  are  also  in  bad  shape,  a  new 
radiator  would  give  more  satisfaction 


THE    RADIATOR  169 

and     be    little    more    expensive     than  This  is  the  most  frequent  cause  of  radia- 

repairing  the  old  one.  tor  trouble.    The  springs  are  placed  there 

In  replacing-  the  radiator  make   sure  to  take  the  strain  from  the  radiator  and 

that   the   springs    are    in   place    on   the  if  they   are   omitted   or  their   action   is 

lower  parts   of  the   radiator   studs   and  reduced   or  made   inoperative,   the  radi- 

that  the  nuts  are  not  set  down  too  hard  ator  will  not  last  long  and  will  soon  need 

so  that  the  spring  action  is  destroyed.  rebuilding  again. 


CHAPTER  XXI 
Engine  Numbers 


EVERY  Ford  engine  when  it  leaves 
the  factory  has  a  number  stamped 
immediately  above  the  inlet  water 
connection  at  the  side  of  the  cylinder 
block.  This  number  is  not  only  useful  in 
identifying  the  model  and  date  the  car 
ivas  turned  out  of  the  factory,  but  it  is 
also  necessary  in  most  states  for  the 
owner  to  supply  the  number  to  the  auto- 
mobile registration  authorities  in  order  to 
secure  a  license. 

When  replacing  a  cylinder  block  in  an 
engine,  therefore,  the  old  number  that 
appeared  on  the  block  should  be  stamped 
on  the  new  block.  For  this  purpose  a 
set  of  numbering  stamps  is  necessary. 
In  some  states  it  is  even  a  criminal 
offence  to  be  in  possession  of  a  car  with 
an  altered  number  or  a  car  without  any 
number  at  all.  It  is,  therefore,  im- 
portant to  attend  to  this  detail. 

The  engine  number  is  one  that  is  used 
for  reference  on  the  Ford.  There  is 


another  number  on  the  name  plate  on  the 
dash,  but  this  does  not  correspond  to  the 
number  on  the  engine.  It  is  to  be  par- 
ticularly noted  that  the  yearly  models  of 
the  Ford  begin  in  Augustcof  each  year 
with  the  exception  of  the  earlier  years 
when  this  was  a  little  different.  The 
models  previous  to  the  Model  T  are  prac- 
itically  extinct  at  the  present  time,  but 
can  be  recognized  by  the  fact  that  the 
circulating  water  pump  is  in  front  of  the 
radiator. 

The  following  list  gives  the  engine 
numbers  of  all  the  machines  turned  oufc 
by  the  Ford  Motor  Co.,  with  the  month 
and  year  that  each  was  turned  out  of 
the  factory.  This  list  may  be  used  for 
identifying  the  parts  which  may  have 
been  changed  from  time  to  time,  and  will 
also  serve  as  an  indication  of  the  age  of 
the  car  for  purposes  of  buying  and  sell- 
ing. When  the  number  of  the  engine 
does  not  agree  with  the  age  stated  by 


170 


ENGINE    NUMBERS  171 

the  owner,  there  may  have  been  some-  substitution  of  another  engine.     In  such 

thing  entering  into  the  matter  that  does  cases  inquiry  of  the  factory  or  nearest 

not  appear  on  the  surface,  such  as  the  branch  will  clear  up  the  difficulty. 

Engine  Numbers  by  Yearly  Models 

1911  Model  (Oct.   ign-Dec.   1911) 80,000  to  88,900 

1912  Model  (Jan.  i9i2-Sept.  1912) 88,900  to  147,300 

1913  Model  (Oct.    i9i2-July   1913) 147,400  to  299,200 

1914  Model  (Aug.  igis-July  1914) 299,200  to  517,800 

1915  Model  (Aug.  1914- July  1915) 5i7»8o°  to  855,500 

1916  Model  (Aug.  igis-July  1916) 855,500  to  1,362,213 

1917  Model  (Aug.  I9i6-July  1917) 1,362,213  to  2,113,500 

1918  Model  (Aug.  I9i7-July  1918) 2,113,500  to  2,756,251 

1919  Model  (Aug.  igiS-July  1919) 2,756,251  to  3,277,851 

1920  Model  (Aug.  igig-June  1920) 3,277,851  to  4,055,280 

Engine  Numbers  by  Months 

1908  1909 — Continued 
Engine  Number               Month                     Engine  Number  Month 

i-n   October  2,025-2,691   April 

n-ioi   November  2,691-4,036 May 

101-309  December  4,036-5,980 June 

1909  5,980-8,107 July 

309-646 January  8,107-9,840 >  . . .  August 

646-1,052    February  9,840-11,148 September 

1,052-2,025    March  11,148-12,405 October 


172 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


1909— Continued 
Engine  Number  Month 

12,405-13,132  November 

13,132-14,161   December 

1910 

i4,i6i-is,5oo January 

15,500-16,600 February 

16,600-19,700  March 

19,700-23,100  April 

23,100-26,500  May 

26,500-29,500  June 

29,500-30,200  .  1 July 

30,200-31,000  August 

31,000-31,900 September 

31,900-32,500 October 

32,500-33,700  November 

33,700-34,900 December 

1911 

34,900-37,000 January 

37,000-40,000 February 

40,000-45,000 March 

45,000-50,800  April 

50,800-57,200 May 

57,200-60,500  June 

60,500-62,100 July 

62,100-66,700  ,  „ August 


1911— Continued 
Engine  Number  Month 

66,700-70,500  September 

70,500-83,100 October 

83,100-86,300 November 

86,300-88,900 December 

l9l2 

88,900-92,000 January 

92,000-95,900 February 

95,900-103,800  March 

103,800-1 12,900  April 

1 12,900-123,800  May 

123,800-132,000 June 

132,000-139,700  July 

139,700-144,500  August 

144,500-147,300 September 

147,300-156,300 October 

156,300-161,200  November 

161,200-171,300 December 

1913 

171,300-186,900  January 

186,900-203,300 * .  February 

203,300-218,900  March 

218,900-242,300 April 

242,300-260,000  May 

260,000-282,700  ,  *  1 1 ,  «.t  i  *  1 1 1 1 1  June 


ENGINE    NUMBERS 


173 


1913— Continued 
Engine  Number  Month 

282,700-298,200  July 

298,200-306,800  August 

306-800-314,800 September 

314,800-324,900  October 

324,900-344,900  November 

344,900-370,400 « .  December 

1914 

370,400-395,600  January 

395»5°o-4i9,50o February 

419,500-447,600  March 

447,600-473,200  April 

473,200-490,920  May 

490,920-507,102 June 

507,102-517,800  July 

517,800-538,200  August 

538,200-558,300  September 

558,300-583,400  October 

583,400-599,100  November 

599,100-611,100 December 

1915 

611,100-614,200  January 

614,200-630,500  February 

630,500-682,400  March 

682,400-723,500 , , April 


1915— Continued 
Engine  Number  Month 

723,500-805,500  May 

805,500-839,700 June 

839,700-855,500 July 

855,500-881,000  August 

881,000-913,000  September 

913,000-949,000 October 

949,000-985,400  November 

985,400-1,029,200 December 


1,029,200-1,071,800 
1,071,800-1,119,000 
1,119,000-1,167,900 
1,167,900-1,219,400 
1,219,400-1,272,000 
1,272,000-1,326,900 
1,326,900-1,362,213 
1,362,213-1,400,900 
1,400,900-1,452,200 
1,452,200-1,510,500 
1*510,500-1,570,700 
1,570,700-1,614,600 


1916 


January 
,  February 
.March 
April 
,May 
June 
July 
August 
September 
October 
.November 
December 


1917 


1,614,600-1,680,000  January 

1,680,000-1,739,900 , February 


174 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


1917 — Continued 

Engine  Number  Month 

1,739,900-1,812,000  March 

1,812,000-1,888,000  April 

1,888,000-1,968,629  May 

1,968,629-2,044,100  June 

2,044,100-2,113,500 July 

2,113,500-2,162,800 August 

2,162,800-2,231,000  September 

2,231,000-2,310,400  October 

2,310,400-2,383,900  November 

2,383,900-2,449,100  December 


1919 


1918 


2,449,100-2,503,200 
2,503,200-2,558,200 
2,558,200-2,611,400 
2,611,400-2,657,500 
2,657,500-2,700,800 
2,700,800-2,735,700 
2,735,700-2,756,250 
2,756,250-2,774,600 
2,774,600-2,787,800 
2,787,800-2,792,300 
2,792,300-2,805,100 
2,805,100-2,831,400 


. .January 
. .  February 
. .  March 
. .  April 
..May 
. . June 
•July 
. .  August 
. .  September 
. .  October 
. .  November 
, ,  December 


Engine  Number 


Month 


2,831,400-2,880,170 January 

2,880,170-2,933,000  February 

2,933,000-2,997,100  March 

2,997,100-3,067,700 April 

3,067,700-3,140,000  , .  May 

3,140,000-3,210,800  June 

3,210,800-3,277,851   July 

3,277,851-3,346,900    August 

3,346,900-3,429,400    September 

3,429,400-3,515,400   October 

3,515,4003,588,000    November 

3,588,000-3,659,970    December 

1920 

3,659,970-3,743,075  January 

3,743,o75-3,8i7,43o  February 

3,817,430-3,910,000 . .  March 

3,910,000-3,969,150  April 

3,969,150-4,055,280  May 


CHAPTER  XXII 
The  Front  Axle  Assembly 


OVERHAUL  operations  of  the  front 
assembly  may  be  divided  roughly 
into  two  classes  which  require 
somewhat  different  treatment.  In  the 
first  place,  where  the  wheels  only  are 
to  be  worked  on,  a  quick-acting  jack 
which  will  raise  the  front  wheels  clear 
of  the  ground  is  all  that  is  necessary. 

In  the  second  place,  complete  over- 
haul of  the  front  assembly  or  any  opera- 
tion which  entails  the  removal  of  the 
axle  itself  or  the  removal  of  the  spring 
will  neceesitate  lifting  the  frame  of  the 
oar  and  thus  leave  the  axle  hanging. 

Such  a  device  is  shown  in  Figs.  109 
and  110. 

1 — There  are  two  hooka  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  device  and  a  ring  at  the 
top.  Hook  the  hook  of  a  chain  hoist 
into  the  ring  and  adjust  the  height  so 
that  the  hooks  are  a  little  below  the 
level  of  the  lamps. 


2 — Hook  each  of  the  hooks  on  the 
fender  iron  below  the  nut  on  the  end 
of  the  lamp  bracket. 

3 — Eaise  on  the  chain  hoist  until  the 
wheels  are  just  clear  of  the  floor. 

4 — Remove  the  cotter  pins  and  take 
the  nuts  off  the  studs  which  hold  the 
ball  cap  of  the  radius  rod. 

5 — With  a  speed  wrench,  remove  the 
nuts  and  bolts  from  the  cap  on  the  ball 
socket  on  the  lower  end  of  the  steering 
arm. 

6 — Remove  the  cotter  pins,  nuts  and 
bolts  from  the  spring  shackles. 

7 — This  will  allow  the  axle  to  drop 
down  till  the  wheels  rest  on  the  floor 
and  the  connections  will  be  loose  so 
that  the  axle  can  be  wheeled  out  to 
the  bench. 

8 — If  the  hoisting  hook  is  needed 
elsewhere,  the  car  can  be  dropped  down 
on  a  couple  of  short  jacks  placed  under 


175 


176 


MODERN    METHODS    OF   FORD    REPAIRING 


the   front   end   of   the 
running  boards. 

9 — A  c  o  m  b  i  n  ation 
stand  like  the  one 
shown  in  Fig.  Ill  per- 
mits holding  the  axle 
firmly  while  the  wheels, 
spindle  bolts  and  other 
parts  are  removed  and 
overhauled.  The  stand 
is  also  capable  of 
handling  the  rear  axle 
and  with  certain  at- 
tachments, the  engine. 

10 — Lift  the  axle  onto 
the  stand  and  close  up 
the  vise  jaws. 


Fig.  109— Detail  draw- 
ing of  the  front  end 
hook  for  raising  the 
front  end  of  the  Ford 
while  removing  or  re- 
pairing the  front  axle 
or  spring 


THE    FRONT   AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


177 


11 — Remove  the  hub  caps  with  the 
hub  cap  wrench.  The  quickest  way  to 
do  this  is  to  start  the  cap  off  by  holding 


Fig.  110 — Front  end  hook  in  posi- 
tion. Each  hook  is  placed  on  the 
fender  iron  below  the  nut  on  the 
end  of  the  lamp  bracket.  The  large 
ring  at  the  top  is  put  on  the  hook 
of  a  chain  fall 

the  tire  of  the  wheel  with  one  hand  and 
striking  a  few  blows  with  a  hammer  on 
the  wrench  when  it  is  in  position  on  the 


hub  cap.  As  soon  as  the  cap  is  loosened, 
hold  the  wrench  with  one  hand  and  spin 
the  wheel  with  the  other. 

12 — Remove  the  surplus  of  grease. 

13 — Take  out  the  cotter  pin. 

14 — Loosen  the  nut  with  the  hub  cap 
wrench  which  has  a  smaller  hexagon 
hole  in  the  other  end  for  this  purpose. 
The  nut  is  usually  on  so  tight  that  the 
wrench  must  be  struck  with  a  hammer 
to  start  it. 

15 — Take  off  the  lock  washer  which 
slips  off  by  hand. 

16— Unscrew  the  outer  cone.  This 
sometimes  wiH  come  off  by  hand,  but 
if  it  wilf  not,  there  are  two  recesses,  one 
on  each  side  and  any  adjustable  wrench 
can  be  used  to  unscrew  them. 

17— The  wheel  will  now  lift  off. 

18 — Repeat  the  operations  with  the 
other  wheel 

19 — Wash  off  all  the  parts,  removing 
all  grease  and  particles  of  ground 
metal. 

20— Examine  the  balls  in  both  the 
inner  and  outer  races,  checking  them 


178 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Fig.  Ill — A  combination  stand  which  is  used  for  holding  the  front  axle. 
The  two  jaws  hold  it  firmly  while  the  operations  are  performed 


THE    FRONT    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


179 


op  to  see  whether  any  are  missing  and 
then  roll  them  around  with  the  fingers 
to  see  if  any  of  the  balls  have  flat  sides 
or  are  broken.  A  broken  or  damaged 
ball  must  be  replaced  and  if  several  are 
damaged  or  missing,  it  is  best  to  replace 


not  give  readily.  They  should  be  elastic 
enough  to  hug  closely  so  as  to  keep  the 
grease  in  and  the  dust  out. 

22 — Examine  the  wheels  themselves. 
If  the  spokes  are  loose  or  shaky  or  if 
the  wheels  have  been  strained  so  that 


Fig.  112 — Spindle  bushing  reamer  which  reams  the  two  bush- 
ings so  that  they  are  in  perfect  alignment 


the  entire  set.  It  is  really  best  to  re- 
place the  entire  set  anyway  as  the  new 
halls  will  all  be  of  one  size,  whereas 
replacing  one  or  several  puts  new  balls 
of  standard  size  in  the  same  race  with 
balls  that  may  be  worn  below  size.  This 
will  throw  all  the  strain  onto  the  new 
balls  and  may  cause  them  to  break  or 
to  score  the  races. 

21 — The  felt  dust  washers  should  be 
replaced  if  they  are  so  stiff  that  they  do 


they  are  out  of  alignment,  new  wheels 
should  be  installed. 

23 — To  remove  the  hubs  from  the 
wheels,  hold  a  blacksmith's  chisel  on 
each  of  the  flange  nuts  in  turn  and  hit 
it  a  sharp  blow  with  a  hammer.  This 
will  break  off  the  bolt,  as  the  bolt  is 
pretty  hard.  The  old  bolts  can  then 
be  driven  out  with  a  punch,  the  parts 
of  the  hub  separated  and  a  new  wheel 
put  in. 


180 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


24 — The  bearing  races  are  removed 
on  the  arbor  press  with  the  drivera 

shown  in  Fig.  115  on  page  182. 

Assembly  of  Wheels 

1 — Replace  races  which  are  worn  (a 
cracked.  The  wheel  parts  of  the  races 
are  inserted  on  the  arbor  press  with  the 
same  drivers  that  they  were  removed 
with. 

2 — New  balls  are  inserted  by  laying 
the  wheel  flat,  filling  the  race  wit* 
grease  and  sticking  the  balls  into  the 
grease.  The  adhesion  of  the  greasa 
will  keep  the  balls  from  falling  out. 
After  the  retaining  rings  are  slipped 
into  place  the  balls  cannot  fell  out 

3 — The  inner  race  of  the  large  bear- 
ing can  be  removed  by  cracking  it  off 
with  a  hammer  or  driving  it  with  a  cold 
chisel.  The  new  one  is  replaced  on  the 
spindle  by  driving  it  on  with  a  short 
piece  of  pipe  and  a  hammer. 

4 — In  adjusting  the  wheel  bearings, 
set  the  adjusting  cone  up  with  the 
wheel  spinning.  When  the  cone  gets 
tight  enough  to  brake  the  wheel,  loosen 


it  about  one-third  turn,  put  on  the  lock 
washer,  replace  the  nut  and  tighten  it 
up  as  hard  as  it  will  go. 

5— Test  the  wheel  again.  It  shook) 
be  loose  enough  to  allow  the  wheel  to 
spin  freely  and  finally  rock  back  and 


Fig.  113 — Spindle  arm  and  spring 
perch  bushing  reamer 

forth  with  the  valve  at  the  bottom.  BE 
it  stops  abruptly  at  any  point,  the  bear- 
ing is  too  tight. 

6 — It  should  not  be  so  loose  that  there 
is  a  perceptible  shake  to  the  wheel. 

Spindle  Body  Bolt  and  Bushings 

1 — Before  the  spindle  bolts  are  re- 
moved the  nuts  and  bolts  connecting'  the 
steering  arms  to  the  tie  rod  should  be 


THE    FRONT    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


181 


disconnected  so  that  when  the  spindles 
come  out,  the  spindle  bodies  can  be  lifted 
right  out  either  with  or  without  the 
wheels,  as  the  case  may  be. 

2 — Remove  the  cotter  pin  and  the  nut 
underneath  the  axle. 

3 — If  the  spindle  has  been  oiled  pretty 
regularly,  there  should  be  little  trouble 
in  turning  the  bolt  out.  If,  however,  the 
spindle  has  never  been  given  any  lubri- 
cation, as  is  often  the  case,  heroic 
methods  may  be  necessary  to  get  the 
bolt  out.  The  following  methods  have 
been  used  to  advantage: 

4 — Pour  kerosene  through  the  oil  filler 
and  around  the  crack  between  the  spindle 
body  and  the  bushings,  allowing  it  to 
remain  there  some  time.  This  may  cut 
the  rust  sufficiently  to  allow  the  bolt  to 
be  turned  out. 

5 — If  it  does  not  respond  to  the  kero- 
sene treatment,  heat  the  lower  lug  on 
the  axle  with  a  blow  torch.  It  should 
not  be  heated  much  more  than  the  boil- 
ing point  of  water  because  the  axle  is 
heat  treated,  and  if  the  heat  applied  is 
too  great,  it  will  soften  the  axle,  result- 


ing in  possible  bending  of  the  part, 
which  may  result  in  a  serious  accident. 

6 — If  neither  of  these  methods  proves 
successful,  saw  the  bolt  off  with  a  hack 
saw  just  under  the  top  lug  of  the  axle. 
Then  with  a  large  wrench  bend  the 
spindle  body  out  until  the  spindle  body 
can  be  pulled  off  the  bolt.  Then  bend 
the  bolt  back  in  position  and  turn  it  out 
with  a  pipe  wrench. 

7 — If  it  refuses  to  respond  to  the  pipe 
wrench,  saw  the  bolt  off  flush  and  drill 
the  old  stump  out,  retapping  the  hole. 
If  the  threads  are  gone,  the  hole  is  bored 
larger,  a  plug  inserted  and  then  the  plug 
is  drilled  and  tapped. 

8 — There  are  hundreds  of  ways  of  tak- 
ing out  the  spindle  body  bushings.  Two 
of  these  methods  are  shown  in  Fig  116 
and  another  tool  for  the  same  purpose  is 
shown  in  Fig.  115  at  A.  These  are  self- 
explanatory. 

9 — When  the  new  bushings  are  in- 
serted they  are  to  be  reamed  with  tHe 
reamer  shown  in  Fig.  112.  This  is  in 
the  form  of  a  lining  reamer  so  that  the 
two  holes  will  be  absolutely  in  line. 


182 


MODERN    METHODS    OP    FORD    REPAIRING 


Where  the  lining  reamer  is  not  avail- 
able, the  bushings  should  be  taken  out 
one  at  a  time  and  reamed  through  the 
old  bushing,  using  this  as  a  guide. 

10 — The  bottom  bushing  should  be  filed 
with  a  flat  mill  file  till  the  spindle  body 
with  its  bushings  will  just  go  in  the 
space  between  the  lugs  on  the  axle.  Lost 
motion  is  to  be  avoided  at  this  point,  so 
that  the  filing  will  have  to  be  done  care- 
fully. As  a  rule,  not  very  much  filing 
is  necessary. 

11 — In  replacing  the  spindle  bolt,  see 
that  the  oil  passage  is  clear  so  that  the 
bushings  will  be  properly  lubricated 
when  oil  is  put  in  the  filler. 

Spring  Repairs 

All  of  the  rattle  can  be  taken  out  of 
the  springs  by  rebushing  the  eyes  and 
inserting  new  bolts.  The  bushings  are 
driven  out  on  an  arbor  press  and  new 
ones  inserted  in  the  same  way. 

.  1 — Use  the  proper  driver  on  the  arbor 
press. 

2 — After  replacing  the  bushing,  ream 
it  with  the  reamer  shown  in  Fig.  113. 


3 — Put  in  new  bolts,  set  up  the  nuts 
and  insert  cotter  pins. 


A     B 


Fig.  115 — A  is  a  spindle  body  bush- 
ing bracket,  B  an  inner  or  outer 
ball  race  remover,  C  a  spindle  arm 
bushing  driver,  D  a  front  wheel 
outer  ball  race  driver,  E  a  front 
wheel  inner  ball  race  driver 

4 — In    replacing    a    broken    leaf,    the 
spring  must  be  taken  apart,  the  broken 


THE    FRONT    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


183 


Fig.  116 — Two  methods  of  removing  spindle  body  bushings.  A  shows  a  tap 
started  in  one  of  the  bushings  so  that  an  old  spindle  bolt  can  be  driven 
against  the  bottom  of  the  tap,  both  tap  and  bushing  being  driven  out.  B  is 
a  split  pm  which  is  compressed  to  get  it  in  the  top  bushing,  the  legs  then 
spreading  out  so  that  they  will  push  the  other  bushing  out 


184 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


pieces  removed  and  a  new  leaf  inserted. 

5 — The  leaves  should  be  laid  up  in  a 
mixture  of  grease  and  graphite. 

6 — The  center  bolt  can  be  inserted  by 


Straightening  the  Axle 

1 — A  bent  front  axle  is  straightened 
cold  by  using  the  bending  bar  shown  in 
Fig.  114.  This  has  sufficient  leverage  to 


Li..  :\ 


Fig.  114 — Front  axle  bending  iron 


gripping  the  leaves  in  a  vise  and  tight- 
ening the  jaws  up  until  the  nut  can  be 
put  on  the  center  bolt. 


bend  any  part  of  the  axle. 

2 — A  template   is   convenient  for  use 
when  using  the  bending  bar  and  one  can 


THE    FRONT    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


185 


be  cut  out  of  a  piece  of  wood  or  sheet 
metal,  using  a  new  axle  as  a  guide.  It 
should  be  so  cut  that  it  touches  the  upper 
part  of  the  I-beam  of  the  axle  all  the 
way  across.  By  bending  the  old  axle  to 
correspond  to  this  template,  one  can  be 
sure  that  the  axle  is  straight.  Another 
template  can  be  made  to  fit  across  the 
top  of  the  axle  to  check  up  the  align- 
ment in  this  direction. 

3 — Place  two  steel  bars  which  are  the 
same  diameter  as  the  spindle  bolt  and 
threaded  on  the  lower  ends  in  the  spindle 
bolt  holes.  By  looking  across  these  the 
alignment  of  the  spindles  can  be  checked 
up  and  corrected  if  necessary. 

4 — A  bent  radius  rod  had  best  be  re- 
placed with  a  new  one,  as  the  slightest 
buckle  will  weaken  it  and  make  another 
bend  imminent  at  any  time.  The  old  rod 
is  removed  by  taking  off  the  two  nuts  in 
front  and  driving  out  the  stubs. 

5 — New  bushings  are  put  in  the  steer- 
ing connections  by  driving  out  the  old 
ones,  inserting  new  ones  and  reaming 


them  out  to  the  correct  size.  New  bolts 
should  always  be  used. 

6 — In  lining  up  the  front  wheels,  the 
bolt  is  slipped  out  of  one  end  of  the  tie 
rod  yoke  and  the  yoke  turned  one  way  or 
the  other  till  the  distance  between  the 
fronts  of  the  rims  is  about  */4  in.  less 
than  the  distance  between  the  rear  of  the 
rims.  The  distance  between  the  tops  is 
considerably  greater  than  between  the 
bottoms  so  that  the  center  of  the  tire 
comes  approximately  beneath  the  spindle 
bolt. 

7 — Before  turning  the  front  assembly 
out  as  being  properly  adjusted,  check  up 
the  following  points: 

8 — Grease  in  the  hub  caps. 

9 — Connections  all  tight  with  no 
rattles. 

10 — All  bolts  and  nuts  tight. 

11 — All  cotter  pins  in  place. 

12 — Spring  clips  set  up  tight  and  cot- 
ter pins  in  place. 

13 — Grease  in  spring  leaves. 

14 — Wheel  bearings  correctly  adjusted. 

15 — Axle  and  wheels  in  line. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 
The  Rear  Axle  Assembly 


THE  first  step  in  the  economical  over- 
haul of  the  rear  assembly  is  to 
have  the  necessary  tools  at  hand 
and  in  such  places  that  the  mechanic 
knows  instinctively  where  each  tool  is 
and  where  to  lay  his  hands  on  it  with 
his  eyes  shut  if  necessary.  This  can  'be 
a<jcomplished  by  having  a  series  of  pegs 
or  nails  on  a  large  board  where  it  is 
within  reach  of  the  axle  stand.  The 
tools  can  be  arranged  logically  on  the 
board  so  that  the  mechanic  can  soon 
learn  where  they  belong.  Then  the,  next 
step  is  to  insure  that  these  tools  shall  al- 
ways be  where  they  belong. 

There  are  essentially  three  parts  to 
the  job— 

1 — Disconnecting  the  axle  from  the 
chassis  and  taking  it  out  from  under  the 
car. 

2 — Disassembling,  replacing  parts  and 
assembling. 

§ — Replacing  the  axle  in  the  car. 


The  quickest  way  to  get  the  axle  out 
is  to  have  a  rear  end  hook  which  is 
shown  in  Figs.  117  and  118.  This  is  at- 
tached by  placing  the  clamps  on  each 
end  of  the  bar  on  the  frame  and  then 
bringing  the  ends  of  the  bars  together, 
one  bar  resting  in  the  safety  clevis  on 
the  other  bar.  The  links  are  then  placed 
in  the  hook  on  the  chain  fall.  This  hook 
will  lift  the  chassis  and  body  up  inde- 
pendently of  the  axle. 

A  combined  rear  axle  jack  and  truck  is 
placed  under  the  axle  so  that  when  the 
connections  are  broken,  the  axle  can  be 
wheeled  right  out  from  under  the  car. 
This  jack  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  124,  is 
triangular  in  form,  the  base  being  con- 
structed of  2^5-in.  angle  iron.  The  pieces 
are  bolted  together  and  mounted  on 
swivel  castors.  The  two  strap  iron  sup- 
ports carry  the  axle  and  the  steel  handle 
is  used  as  a  lever  to  force  the  supports 
under  the  axle  to  raise  it  from  the  floor 


186 


THE    REAR    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


187 


Fig.  117 — Rear  end  hook  in  posi- 
tion for  raising  the  rear  end  of  the 
Ford.  In  attaching  the  hook,  place 
the  clamps  on  the  end  of  each  bar 
on  the  frame,  then  bring  the  ends 
of  the  bars  together,  one  bar  rest- 
ing in  the  safety  clevis  on  the  other 
bar.  The  links  are  then  placed  in 
the  hook  on  the  chain  fall 


and  also  as  a  handle  to  pull  the  whole 
outfit  around  with. 

1 — Put  the  rear  end  hook  in  position 
and  raise  on  the  chain  fall  until  the 
wheels  are  clear  of  the  floor. 

2 — Slip  the  axle  jack  under  the  axle  so 
that  it  takes  the  weight  off  the  springs. 

3 — Block  the  front  wheels  in  front  and 
in  back. 

4 — Remove  the  hub  caps  with  the  hub 
cap  wrench.  These  will  most  likely  have 
to  be  started  with  a  hammer,  then  when 
loosened,  the  wheel  is  turned  while  the 
wrench  is  held  still. 

5 — Remove  the  cotter  pins  from  the 
axle  ends. 

6 — Remove  the  nuts,  starting  them 
with  an  L-wrench  if  necessary,  then  fin- 
ishing the  job  with  a  speed  wrench. 

7 — Grasp  one  of  the  rear  wheels  by  the 
tire  and  pull  outward  If  the  wheel  does 
mot  come  off  easily,  hit  the  axle  end  with 
a  medium  weight  hammer,  interposing  a 
piece  of  wood  to  protect  the  threads  and 
the  wheel  should  pop  right  off. 


188 


MODERN    METHODS    OP    FORD    REPAIRING 


^5 

i     r 

^i  — 

A 

r  .         /^    7 

I 

r 

rO 

4 

S— 

-&c\ 

7 

RADIUS 

-n-- 

v^ 

Fig.  118—  Detail 

plan   of  the  rear 

end    hook.      This 

— 

-1* 

i?OUND 

can    be    made    by 

any      blacksmith. 

V 

The     hooks     are 

* 

put  inside    the 

frame  and  hooked 

around    the    side                 p 

-^1 

members,        the 

2'' 

chain  hoist  being 

7 

\ 

t 

) 

hooked    into     the 

— 

U 

«-  o. 

links                           \ 
mt 

Vi 

r^-ni 

it 

i-  GROOVE 

{ 

/ 

r 

\ 

' 

\ 

\-\ 

-I.TW 

"^>> 

- 

V 

1?5Q 

' 

*                •-« 

en 

n>v 

1 

^ 

H 

~i 

THE    HEAR    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


189 


S — If  it  is  stuck  very  badly,  use  the 
rear  wheel  puller. 

9 — Remove  the  other  wheel  in  the 
same  way. 

10— Remove  the  cotter  pins  and  then 


with  a  speed  wrench  remove  the  perch 
nuts  from  the  inside  of  the  brake  flange. 
This  will  loosen  the  springs  from  the 
axle. 

11 — Disconnect  the  brake  rods  at  the 


ERS 


Fig,  119— ,4  wooden  rear-axle  bench  with  all  dimensions  given 


190 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


front  by  taking  out  the  cotter  pins  and 
pulling  out  the  clevis  pins. 

12 — Remove  the  cottar  pins  from  the 
universal  joint  flange  bolts. 
•  13 — Remove  the  flange  nuts  and  bolts, 
using  a  6-ft.  speed  wrench  with  a  %-in-. 
socket.  The  use  of  this  long  wrench  en- 
ables the  mechanic  to  remove  these  bolts 
without  getting  under  the  car  or  work- 
ing in  the  cramped  space  under  the  floor 
boards. 

14 — This  frees  the  axle  entirely  from 
the  car  and  it  can  be  pulled  out  on  the 
truck  jack  and  brought  to  the  rear  axle 
stand. 

15 — TWO  kinds  of  axle  stands  are 
shown  in  Figs.  119  and  123.  The  entire 
axle  is  placed  on  one  or  the  other  of 
these. 

Disassembling  the  Axle 

16 — Remove  the  cotter  pins  and  nuts 
from  the  ends  of  the  radius  rods,  using  a 
speed  wrench. 

17 — Using  a  7/16-in.  socket  speed 
wrench  with  a  4% -ft.  handle,  remove  the 
torque-tube  retaining  nuts. 


18 — The  drive-shaft  housing  or 
tube  can  now  be  pulled  right  out,  bring- 
ing the  drive  shaft,  pinion,  etc.,  with  it 

19 — A  Jew  speeder  shown  in  Fig.  126 
is  used  for  removing  the  bolts  and  nuts 


Fig.   120 — Tool  for  driving   roller 
bearing  sleeve  on  propeller  shaft 

that  hold  the  halves  of  the  axle  housing 
together. 

20 — Pull   the   halves   of    the   housing 
apart,  having  previously  placed  a  bucket 


underneath 
grease. 


to  catch  the  "soup"  or  soft 


THE    REAR    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


191 


21 — The  keys  are  removed  from  the 
shafts,  the  right  one  before  the  housing 
is  slipped  off  and  the  left  one  after  the 
right  half  is  taken  off.  This  will  per- 
mit the  complete  disassembly  of  the  axle, 
the  differential  casings  being  separated 


this  is  too  tight  a  fit,  it  may  have  to  be 
taken  down  a  little  with  a  fine  mill  file 
and  this  must  be  carefully  done. 

Disassembling  the  Drive  Shaft 

1— Remove  both  top  and  bottom  pipe 


Fig.  121 — Rear  axle  pinion  gear  press 


by  removing  the  three  bolts.    The  thrust 
washers  will  now  drop  out. 

22 — The  overhauling  is  completed  by 
replacing  parts  which  have  to  be  re- 
newed. There  is  no  fitting  required  on 
any  of  the  parts  with  the  possible  excep- 
tion of  the  babbitt  thrust  washer.  If 


plugs  from  the  forward  end  of  the  drive 
shaft  housing. 

2— Turn  the  shaft  around  until  the 
universal  joint  pin  comes  into  view. 

3 — Drive  out  the  pin  with  a  punch. 

4 — Drive  the  universal  joint  away  from 
the  housing. 


192 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


5— Remove  the  totter  pin  from  the  nut 
that  holds  the  pinion  gear  on  the  shaft. 

6 — Remove  the  nut  with  a  heavy  %-in. 
socket  wrench. 

7 — Place  the  shaft  in  the  press  shown 
in  Fig.  121  and  placing  the  stud  at  the 
end  of  the  shaft  and  the  pipe  over  the 
shaft,  apply  pressure.  This  will  force 
the  pinion  gear  off.  Do  not  lose  the  key 
unless  you  are  going  to  replace  it. 

8 — To  replace  the  gear  on  the  shaft, 
place  the  short  pipe  under  the  gear  and 
apply  pressure  directly  to  the  end  of  the 
shaft,  having  first  inserted  the  key.  This 
will  push  the  gear  on. 

9 — Before  replacing  the  shafts,  center 
them  in  a  lathe  or  in  the  testing  centers 
which  were  described  in  the  section  de- 
voted to  crankshaft  work.  If  the  shafts 
are  bent,  straighten  them  in  the  same 
press  that  was  used  for  crankshaft  and 
camshaft  work  or  else  replace  them  with 
new  ones. 

10 — Before  assembling,  all  parts  are 
to  be  washed  off  and  examined  for  wear 


Fig.  122 — Rear  axle  sleeve  puller 


THE    REAR    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


193 


and  breakage  and  replacements  made  ac- 
cordingly. 

11 — The  differential  should  turn  freely 
'by  hand  and  the  gears  should  mesh 
throughout  their  tooth  length.  Every- 
thing must  be  set  up  tight  and  new  cot- 
ter pins  used  in  every  case. 

Assembly  of  the  Units 

1 — pill  the  bearings  with  grease  in 
every  case  as  the  parts  go  together. 

2 — The  assembly  is  just  the  reverse  of 
the  disassembly. 

3 — Pack  the  universal  joint  in  grease 
and  fill  the  differential  with  grease.  This 
insures  lubricant  getting  right  where  it 
is  supposed  to  go  as  soon  as  the  car 
starts  off.  After  th.  assembly  of  the 
axle  is  complete,  more  grease  can  be  put 
into  the  housing  with  a  gun. 

4— Roll  the  axle  under  the  car. 

5 — 'Use  a  bicycle  wrench,  thin  solid 
wrench  or  spark  plug  wrench  to  turn  the 
square  end  of  the  universal  joint  so  that 
it  will  enter  the  square  hole  in  the  trans- 
mission. 


Fig.  123 — All-metal  combination  stand 
which  is  used  for  rear  axle 


194 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Fig,    124 — Quick-acting    rear    axle 
jack  and  truck 

6 — Be    careful    not    to    damage    the 
round  gasket. 

7 — Insert  the  bolts  in  the  flange,  tight- 


en them  with  the  speed  wrench  and  put 
on  the  nuts  and  cotter  pins. 

8 — Connect  up  the  springs  to  the  axle. 

9 — Connect  the  brake  rods,  adjusting 


Fig.  126  —  Jew  socket  wrench  for 
removing  differential  flange  nuts 


THE    REAR    AXLE    ASSEMBLY 


195 


them  so  that  the  brakes  take  hold  equally 
and  do  not  bind.  This  is  done  by  loosen- 
ing the  lock  nut  and  turning  the  yoke 
in  or  out  until  the  correct  adjustment  is 
obtained.  If  the  brake  shoes  are  worn 
so  that  a  good  adjustment  cannot  be  ob- 


sure  that  the  keys  are  in  place. 

13 — Insert  the  cotters. 

14 — Replace  the  hub  caps. 

15 — Replace  cups  and  fill  with  grease. 

16 — Be  sure  that  the  pipe  plugs  are  in 
place  in  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  drive 


Fig.  125 — Special  speed  wrenches  for  rear  axle  work 


tained,  they  should  be  replaced  with  new 
ones. 

10 — Replacement  of  broken  springs  13 
taken  care  of  in  the  same  manner  that 
was  used  for  the  front  springs,  this  be- 
ing described  in  the  previous  chapter. 

11 — Replace  the  wheels. 

12 — Set  the  nuts  up  tight,  being  first 


shaft  housing. 

The  total  time  for  overhauling  an  axle 
should  not  be  over  1  hr.  for  one  man  if 
all  things  are  in  proper  order  and  if  the 
modern  methods  described  here  are  used. 

A  device  for  towing  in  Fords  with 
broken  rear  axles  is  shown  in  Fig.  127. 
While  this  is  not  strictly  repairshop 


196 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


equipment,  yet  every  shop  is  called  upon 
at  times  to  tow  in  a  car  with  a  broken 
shaft  and  there  are  so  many  slouchy 
methods  of  doing  this  that  the  correct 
and  best  method  seems  worth  mention- 


ing. This  device  can  be  attached  in  a 
few  minutes'  time  and  there  will  be  no 
worry  about  getting  the  disabled  car 
into  the  shop  in  safety.  Of  course,  the 
oar  cannot  be  driven  in. 


Fig.  127 — A  device  for  towing  a  Ford  with  a  broken  axle.    A  front  wheel 
mounted  on  the  spindle  and  the  clamps  tightened  over  the  axle 


CHAPTER  XXIV 
Miscellaneous  Parts 


E  Ford  steering  gear  is  probably 

±    unique  in  automobile  design  on  ac- 
count of  the  gear  reduction  taking 
place  in  the  head  of  the  steering  column 
rather  than  through  worms  or  quadrants 
at  the  base  of  the  post.    The  usual  over- 
haul job   on  a  steering  gear  is  for  the 
purpose  of  either  taking  out  lost  motion 
or  replacing  broken  or  damaged  parts. 
The  lost  motion  may  be  looked  for  in 
the  following  places — 

l_Wear  in  the  pinions,  internal  gear 
case  or  drive  pinion.  The  gears  need  in- 
frequent lubrication,  in  fact  the  Ford 
manual  calls  for  packing  with  grease  but 
once  a  year  on  the  average,  and  yet,  the 
large  majority  of  steering  gears  do  not 
get  even  that  much,  and  the  consequence 
is  that  the  gears  wear  out. 

2 — Wear  between  the  balls  and  caps, 
one  on  the  bottom  of  the  steering  arm 
and  one  at  the  right  side  of  the  tie  rod 


looking  forward. 

3 — Wear  on  steering  knuckle  pins  and 
bushings. 

4 — Wear  on  spindle  bolts  and  bushings. 
This  would  ordinarily  be  taken  up  in  the 
front  assembly  overhaul. 
To  disassemble  the  steering  gear — 
1 — Remove  the  acorn  nut  on  top  of  the 
steering  wheel. 

2 — Drive  off  the  steering  wheel  spider 
as  shown  in  Fig.  128. 

3 — Unscrew  the  lockscrew  on  the 
steering  gear  case.  If  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  remove  the  spider  from  the  shaft, 
omit  operations  Nos.  1  and  2. 

4 — Unscrew  the  cover  of  the  gear  case 
and  lift  it  off.  If  the  wheel  spider  has 
been  removed,  the  cover  will  slide  up 
over  the  shaft  which  is  pulled  out  after- 
ward. If  the  spider  has  not  been  re- 
moved, the  spider,  shaft  and  cover  will 
all  come  off  together. 


197 


198 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


BAIL  SOCKET  CAP 


Fig.  128 — The  steering  wheel  is  removed 

by  taking  off  the  nut  and  driving  the 

spider  off  with  a  block  of  wood  and  a 

hammer 


Fig.  129 — This  is  a  jig  for  grinding  down 

ball  caps  to  take  up  for  wear.     Two  of 

them,  are  clamped  in  the  jig  and  the  faces 

ground  on  an  emery  wheel 


MISCELLANEOUS    PARTS 


199 


5 — Lift  out  the  pinion  gears. 

6 — Remove  the  steering  column  nuts 
from  the  bolts  that  go  through  the  dash, 
using  a  speeder. 

7 — Remove  the  cotter  pins,  bolts  and 
nuts  from  the  ball  cap  on  the  lower  end 
of  the  steering  arm. 

8 — Remove  the  timer  and  throttle  rods. 

9 — Remove  the  bolt  and  nut  from  the 
lower  support  of  the  steering  column. 
This  will  permit  the  steering  gear  to  be 
withdrawn  from  the  dash.  For  minor 
overhauls  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  take 
the  steering  gear  completely  out  and 
therefore  some  of  these  operations  may 
be  omitted. 

10 — Most  likely  the  ball  caps  on  the 
steering  gear  will  need  taking  down  to 
get  rid  of  the  lost  motion  at  this  point. 
Fig.  129  shows  a  device  for  performing 
this  operation  quickly  and  accurately.  A 
block  of  wood  is  cut  to  the  shape  shown 
and  a  T  is  welded  to  the  end  of  a  long 
stud  which  goes  through  a  hole  in  the 
block.  By  placing  two  of  the  caps  in  the 
recesses  cut  in  the  wood  and  then  tight- 
ening the  thumb  screw  down  on  the  stud, 


they  will  be  held  rigidly  in  position  and 
the  faces  of  the  caps  can  be  dressed 
down  on  the  side  of  an  emery  wheel. 

11. — Dress  the  caps  down  so  that  there 
is  no  rock  to  the  caps,  but  do  not  take  so 
much  off  that  the  cap  binds  on  the  ball. 

12 — Pack  the  caps  with  grease  before 
replacing. 

13 — Replace  the  necessary  parts  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  steering  gear  and  pack 
with  grease  before  assembling  the  cover. 

14 — The  arms  on  the  throttle  and 
timer  shafts  should  be  tight  and  if  much 
worn  should  be  replaced. 

15 — A  new  rim  can  be  put  on  the 
spider  by  unscrewing  the  screws,  re- 
moving the  old  rim  and  putting  on  a  new 
one.  See  that  the  screws  are  good  and 
tight. 

16 — The  assembly  of  the  gear  is  ex- 
actly the  reverse  of  the  disassembly. 

17— Be  sure  to  set  all  bolts  up  tight 
and  put  in  cotter  pins  where  required. 

18 — In  the  older  model  cars  with 
wooden  dash,  set  the  steering  column 
support  nuts  tight.  Sometimes  the  wood 
splits  away  at  the  lower  side  of  the  dash 


200 


MODERN    METHODS    OP    FORD    REPAIRING 


and  if  there  is  not  sufficient  damage  done 
to  warrant  a  new  dash,  the  trouble  can 
sometimes  be  remedied  by  placing  a  few 
washers  under  the  nuts. 

19 — The  steering  wheel  should  have 
just  the  slightest  amount  of  lost  motion. 
If  too  tight,  the  ball  caps  have  been 
ground  down  too  much  or  some  of  the 
other  parts  are  not  set  up  right.  If  too 
loose,  there  is  wear  in  the  gears,  the 
gear  housing  is  loose  from  the  steering 
column,  or  there  is  lost  motion  in  the  ball 
caps  or  at  the  spindles. 

20 — The  adjustment  of  the  front 
wheels  was  covered  in  the  chapter  on 
overhauling  the  front  assembly. 

The  Muffler 

1 — The  Ford  muffler  is  very  easily  and 
quickly  disassembled  if  the  body  is  off 
the  chassis,  but  if  the  engine  is  in  place 
and  the  body  bolted  on,  it  is  most  con- 
venient to  remove  the  bolts  which  hold 
the  muffler  bracket  to  the  frame.  This 
is  done  from  underneath.  A  section  of 
the  muffler  is  shown  in  Fig.  130. 

2 — The  muffler  will  now  slide  off  the 


exhaust  pipe  and  can  be  taken  right  out. 

3 — If  the  muffler  is  badly  rusted  up  or 
broken  it  is  an  economy  to  replace  it  with 
a  new  one. 

4 — If  susceptible  of  repairs,  the 
through  bolts  are  taken  out  and  the  two 
headers  will  come  apart  allowing  the  in- 
ner shells  to  drop  out.  These  are  either 
cleaned  or  repaired  as  the  case  may  be, 
and  then  replaced  as  they  were. 

5 — See  that  the  slots  on  the  smaller 
shell  are  at  the  rear  and  the  slots  on  the 
larger  shell  are  at  the  front.  Otherwise 
the  muffler  will  not  perform  its  function 
correctly. 

6 — Replace  the  headers,  the  shells  fit- 
ting into  the  ledges  on  the  headers. 

7 — A  new  asbestos  sheet  is  wrapped 
around  the  outside  and  held  on  with  the 
tin  strips. 

8 — .Replace  the  muffler  and  bolt  to 
the  frame. 

The  Gasoline  Tank 

1 — The  tank  is  supported  on  the  frame 
with  two  supports,  one  of  them  being  in 
the  form  of  a  cradle  with  two  points  of 


MISCELLANEOUS    PARTS 


201 


support  and  the  other  with  one  point  of 
support.  The  only  thing  liable  to  get 
wrong  with  the  tank  outside  of  a  punc- 


2 — If  the  tank  is  punctured,  it  can  be 
soldered  up  in  the  ordinary  way,  first 
removing  all  the  gasoline  and  allowing 


THROUGH  BOLT 


TIN  STRIPS 


EXHAU3T  PIPE 


Fig.  130— The  muffler  is  easily  disassembled  by  taking  out  the  three  long 

bolts  which  will  allow  all  the  parts  to  drop  out.     The  headers  have  ledges 

to  hold  the  shells  in  their  proper  position,  and  in  re-assembling  the  slots 

must  be  put  at  the  opposite  ends  of  the  muffler 


ture  is  the  loosening  of  the  bolts  which 
attach  it  to  the  frame. 


fresh  air  to  blow  in  the  filler  hole  to  re- 
move all  the  gasoline  vapor  so  there  will 


202 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


be  no  chance  of  an  explosion  occurring. 

3 — A  stopped  up  feed  pipe  is  remedied 
by  removing  the  coupling  nuts  at  both 
ends,  taking  the  pipe  out  of  the  car  and 
removing  the  obstacle.  This  may  be  done 
in  a  number  of  different  ways  as  fol- 
lows: 

4 — Run  a  stiff  wire  through  the  pipe, 
afterwards  washing  it  out  with  gaso- 
line to  remove  the  small  pieces  of  dirt 
which  the  wire  has  dislodged. 

5 — Make  up  a  connection  with  a  feed 


pipe  coupling  so  that  the  feed  pipe  can 
be  connected  to  the  steam  supply  by 
means  of  the  coupling.  A  stop  cock 
will  allow  the  steam  to  be  turned  on  and 
off.  If  steam  is  not  accessible,  connect 
up  to  the  air  supply.  The  pressure  will 
remove  the  obstruction  in  most  cases  and 
the  heat  of  the  steam  will  generally  do 
the  trick. 

6 — The  strainer  is  cleaned  by  taking 
it  apart.  It  can  be  unscrewed  from  the 
bottom  of  the  tank, 


CHAPTER  XXV 


Care  and  Repair  of  the  F.  A.  Starting  and  Lighting  System 


THE  F.  A.  starting  and  lighting 
system  now  being  installed  on  Ford 
sedans  and  coupes  is  of  the  two- 
unit  type  and  consists  of: 

1 — Starting  motor. 

2 — Generator. 

£ — Storage  battery. 

4 — Charging  indicator. 

5 — Lights. 

6 — Necessary  wiring  and  connections. 

The  starting  motor  is  mounted  on  the 
left  side  of  the  engine  and  is  bolted  to 
the  transmission  cover.  When  in  opera- 
tion the  pinion  of  the  Bendix  drive  shaft 
engages  with  the  teeth  of  the  engine 
flywheel. 

Instructions  for  Starting  the  Engine 

1 — Place  the  spark  and  throttle  levers 
in  the  same  position  on  the  quadrant  as 
when  starting  by  hand — the  spark 
lever  in  the  third  or  fourth  notch  and 


203 


the  throttle  lever  in  the  fifth  or  sixth 
notch. 

2 — Turn  on  the  ignition  switch.  The 
engine  may  be  started  either  on  battery 
or  magneto,  but  the  use  of  the  magneto 
is  strongly  recommended,  as  just  as  hot 
a  spark  will  be  produced  and  the  battery 
will  have  less  drain  put  upon  it.  How- 
ever, in  very  cold  weather,  when  the 
starter  will  not  turn  the  engine  over  very 
fast,  owing  to  thickened  oil,  the  battery 
will  give  quicker  results  in  starting.  As 
soon  as  the  engine  starts,  switch  to  the 
magneto. 

The  spark  must  not  be  advanced  too 
far  or  the  engine  will  backfire,  and  this 
may  bend  or  break  the  shaft  of  the 
starter. 

3 — Press  down  on  the  starter  push 
button,  which  is  located  on  the  floor  of 


204 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


ia   i— Top  view  of  the  Ford  power  plant,  shoiving  the  generator  mounted  at 
theriaht  front  of  the  engine  and  the  starting  motor  engaging  the  teeth  of  the 
flywheel  through  the  transmission  cover 


F.  A.  STARTING  AND  LIGHTING  SYSTEM 


205 


the  car  at  the  driver's  feet.  This  button 
connects  the  circuit  and  makes  the  cur- 
rent flow  from  the  battery  through  the 
starting  motor,  causing  it  to  turn  and 
causing  the  Bendix  drive  shaft  to  engage 
with  the  flywheel  teeth,  turning  the 
engine  over. 

4 — If  the  engine  is  cold,  it  is  primed 
by  pulling  out  the  carbureter  priming 
rod,  which  is  located  on  the  instrument 
board.  This  should  be  held  out  for 
only  a  few  seconds  at  a  time  to  prevent 
flooding  the  carbureter. 

Causes  of  Failure  to  Start 

1 — If  the  starting  iiv?tor  turns  the 
engine  over  and  the  engine  refuses  to 
start,  the  trouble  is  not  in  the  starting 
system,  but  is  in  the  engine  or  some  of 
its  accessories  or  equipment.  In  such  a 
case  release  the  button  and  look  for 
trouble  with  ignition,  carburetion,  or 
other  trouble  with  the  engine.  Continu- 
ing to  press  the  button  will  only  dis- 
charge the  battery  and  will  not  remedy 
the  trouble. 

2 — If  the  starting  motor  does  not  act 


when  the  button  Is  pushed,  then  th« 
trouble  is  in  the  starting  system,  and 
faults  may  be  looked  for  as  follows : 

3 — See  that  the  connection  to  the  ter- 
minal of  the  starting  motor  is  tight. 

4 — See  that  the  connections  to  the  two 
battery  terminals  are  tight. 

5 — See  that  the  connections  to  the  two 
terminals  on  the  starting  switch  are 
tight. 

6 — See  whether  any  of  the  wires  are 
broken  or  have  the  insulation  damaged 
so  that  a  short  circuit  exists  between  the 
wire  and  the  frame  of  the  car  or  some 
other  metal  part. 

7 — Examine  the  condition  of  the  bat- 
tery. It  may  be  run  down.  Test  it  with 
a  hydrometer.  If  it  is  less  than  1.225 
there  will  not  be  enough  current  to  turn 
the  engine  over.  There  may  not  be 
enough  electrolyte  in  the  cells  to,  cover 
the  tops  of  the  plates  and  this  may  b« 
caused  either  by  evaporation  or  by  a 
leaky  battery  jar. 

The  Generator 

1 — The  generator  is  mounted  on  the 


206 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


QBE  EN 


Fig.  2 — Wiring  diagram  of  the  F.  A.  Starting  and  Lighting  system  as  now  installed  on 

Ford  Sedans  and  Coupes 


F.  A.  STARTING  AND  LIGHTING  SYSTEM 


207 


t&ine  and  is  bolted  to 
cover.    The  pinion 
engages  with  the 
d  the  charging  rate 
t  to  cut  in  at  engine 
hg  to  car  speeds  of  10 
its  maximum  rate  at 


right  side  of 
the  cylinder 
of  the  arma. 
large  timin 
of  the  gene 
speeds  corre 
m.p.h.    It 
20  m.p.h. 

2 — To  remove  the  generator  take  out 
the  three  cap  screws  holding  it  to  the 
front  end  cover. 

3 — Place  the  point  of  a  screwdriver 
between  the  generator  and  the  front  end 
cover,  prying  it  off.  Start  at  the  top  and 
force  it  backward  and  downward  at  the 
same  time. 

4 — if  necessary  to  run  the  car  with- 
out the  generator,  plates  can  be  obtained 
from  Ford  branches  to  put  over  the  tim- 
ing gear. 

5 — If  the  engine  is  to  be  run  with  the 
generator  disconnected  from  the  battery, 
be  sure  that  the  generator  is  grounded 
to  the  engine  frame  by  running  a  wire 
from  the  terminal  of  the  generator  to  one 
of  the  valve-cover  stud  nuts.  A  piece  of 
wire  at  least  1/16  in,  in  diameter  should 


be  used  and  both  connections  must  be 
made  tight.  Failure  to  ground  the  gen- 
erator when  the  engine  is  running  with 
the  generator  disconnected  will  seriously 
injure  the  generator. 

6 — Ford  dealers  are  instructed  by  the 
factory  not  to  take  the  generator  or 
starter  apart,  but  to  return  the  units 
to  the  Ford  branch  for  repair  or  replace- 
ment. 

7 — The  generator  is  lubricated  by 
splash  from  the  timing  gears.  There  is 
also  an  oil  cup  at  the  front  end  of  the 
generator  housing,  and  this  should  have 
a  few  drops  of  light  oil  each  week. 
The  Cut-Out 

The  operation  of  cutting  in  and  cut- 
ting out  at  suitable  speeds  is  accom- 
plished by  the  cut-out,  which  is  mounted 
on  the  dash.  This  is  set  correctly  at  the 
factory  and  should  need  no  other  adjust- 
ment during  its  entire  life. 

The  Charging  Indicator 

The  charging  indicator  is  on  the  in- 
strument board.  It  registers  "charge" 
when  the  generator  is  charging  the  bat- 


208 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


tery  and  "discharge"  when  the  lights  are 
burning  and  the  engine  is  not  running  at 
a  greater  speed  than  that  corresponding 
to  a  car  speed  of  10  m.p.h.  At  a  speed 
of  over  15  m.p.h.  the  indicator  should 


3 — With  the  generator  running  at  a 
moderate  rate  of  speed,  take  a  pair  of 
pliers  or  a  screwdriver  and  short  cir- 
cuit the  terminal  stud  on  the  generator 
to  the  generator  housing. 


•IS 


Fig.  3. — The   starter   with  Bendix   drive.      The   cover   on   the   opposite   side   of   the 
transmission  cover  allows  room  for  the  pinion  to  move 


show  a  reading  of  10  to  12  amperes  with 
the  lights  burning.  If  the  indicator  does 
not  show  "charge"  under  such  condi- 
tions, 

1 — Inspect  the  terminal  posts  of  the 
indicator. 

2 — Disconnect  the  wire  from  the  ter- 
minal on  the  generator. 


4 — If  the  generator  is  generating  cur- 
rent, a  good  hot  spark  will  be  observed. 

5 — Inspect  the  wiring  from  the  gen- 
erator through  the  charging  indicator 
to  the  battery. 

Removing  the  Starting  Motor 
1 — Remove  the  left  engine  pan. 


F.  A.  STARTING  AND  LIGHTING  SYSTEM 


209 


2 — Remove  the  four  small  screws 
which  hold  the  shaft  cover  to  the  trans- 
mission cover.  These  can  be  taken  off 
with  a  screwdriver. 

3 — Take  off  the  gasket. 

4 — Tnrn  the  Bendix  drive  shaft  around 
so  that  the  set  screw  on  the  end  of  the 
shaft  is  in  an  upright  position  or  on  top. 

5 — There  is  a  lock  washer  immediately 
under  the  set  screw  and  it  has  lips  or 
extensions  on  it  opposite  each  other  on 
the  outside  diameter.  One  of  these  is 
turned  against  the  collar  and  the  other 
against  the  side  of  the  set  screw. 

6 — Bend  back  the  lip  which  has  been 
forced  against  the  screw  and  remove  the 
eet  screw. 

7 — The  lock  washer  will  be  broken  or 
weakened  and  should  be  junked  and  re- 
placed with  a  new  one. 

8 — Pull  the  assembly  out  of  the  hous- 
ing. Do  not  lose  the  small  key. 

9 — Remove  the  four  screws  that  hold 
the  starter  housing  to  the  transmission 

COTCT. 


10— Poll  out  the  starter,  taking  it 
down  through  the  chassis  where  the  left 
engine  pan  was  taken  out. 

11 — In  replacing  the  starter,  reverse 
these  operations  and  be  sure  that  the 
terminal  connection  is  at  the  top. 

12 — If  the  engine  is  to  be  operated 
without  the  starter,  plates  can  be  ob- 
tained from  Ford  branches  to  put  over 
the  holes  to  keep  the  oil  from  flying  out. 

The  Lights 

The  lighting  system  consists  of  two 
2-bulb  headlights  operated  by  a  combi- 
nation lighting  and  ignition  switch  on 
the  instrument  board.  The  large  bulbs 
are  6-8  volt,  17  c.p.,  and  the  small  bulbs 
are  6-8  volt,  2  c.p.  A  small  bulb,  6-8  volt, 
2  c.p.,  is  used  in  the  tail  lamp.  All 
lamps  are  connected  in  parallel  and  the 
burning  out  of  one  lamp  will  not  affect 
the  others. 

Caution — Do  not  connect  the  lights  to 
the  magneto,  as  this  will  burn  them  out 
and  may  discharge  the  magneto  magnets. 

The  wiring  and  connections  to  the  dif- 
ferent lamps  are  shown  in  Fig.  2. 


210 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Battery  Care  and  Maintenance 

The  battery  is  a  6-volt,  13-plate  Exide 
type  3-XC-13-1.  The  following  points 
are  to  be  observed  in  testing,  adjusting 
and  taking  care  of  the  battery: 

1  —  Under  no  circumstances  must  the 
current  from  the  battery  be  allowed  to 


SHAET 


EDUQKf 

Fig.  4 — The  generator  is  driven 
from  the  large  timing  gear.  It  will 
be  noted  that  the  gears  are  spiral 

pass  through  the  coils  of  the  magneto. 
Current  flowing  through  these  coils  even 


for  an  instant  would  discharge  the  mag- 
nets and  require  the  taking  down  of  the 
engine  and  the  installation  of  new  mag- 
nets, not  to  speak  of  possible  damage 
that  .might  be  done  to  the  coils  them- 
selves. To  guard  against  this,  discon- 
nect the  positive  wire  from  the  battery 
before  doing  any  testing  or  working 
around  the  wires  and  wrap  this  terminal 
with  tape  so  that  it  cannot  make  contact 
with  anything.  As  the  negative  termi- 
nal is  grounded  to  the  frame,  this  will 
prevent  the  current  from  going  anywhere 
until  the  positive  terminal  is  connected 
again. 

1 — Add  nothing  but  distilled  water  to 
the  battery.  This  filling  should  be  done 
at  least  once  a  week  on  cars  that  get 
ordinary  use,  and  oftener  on  cars  that 
are  used  constantly.  Water  will  evapo- 
rate more  quickly  in  summer  than  in 
winter  and  replacement  will  therefore 
be  necessary  at  more  frequent  intervals 
in  warm  weather. 

2 — Test  the  density  of  the  electrolyte 
at  frequent  intervals  to  make  sure  that 


F.  A.  STARTING  AND  LIGHTING  SYSTEM 


211 


the  generator  is  keeping  the  battery 
charged.  This  is  done  by  removing  the 
filler  cap  of  each  cell  in  turn,  sucking  up 
some  of  the  liquid  with  a  hydrometer 
syringe  and  noting  the  number  on  the 
scale  of  the  hydrometer  that  comes  even 
with  the  top  of  the  liquid. 

A  fully  charged  battery  should  read 
from  1.275  to  1.300. 

A  battery  half  charged  will  show  a 
reading  of  1.226  to  1.250. 

A  battery  completely  discharged  will 
show  a  reading  of  less  than  1.200. 

3 — Return  the  electrolyte  to  the  cell 
from  which  it  was  taken  and  then  pro- 
ceed to  the  next  one.  The  electrolyte  of 
one  cell  must  not  be  put  in  another  cell. 

4 — Hydrometer  tests  must  be  taken 
after  the  battery  has  been  charging.  If 
the  test  is  taken  after  adding  water,  the 
water  will  not  have  had  a  chance  to  mix 
thoroughly  and  the  test  will  not  show 
the  true  condition  of  the  battery. 

5 — Continued  operation  of  the  car 
with  the  battery  in  a  discharged  condi- 


tion will  injure  the  battery.  The  cause 
of  the  run-down  condition  should  be  as- 
certained and  fixed  and  the  battery  then 
charged  from  some  outside  source  to 
bring  it  up  to  a  fully  charged  condition. 

6 — Keep  the  filler  caps  in  place  and 
screwed  down  tight. 

7 — Keep  the  battery  connections  clean 
and  tight.  They  should  be  coated  with 
heavy  grease  or  vaseline  to  protect  the 
metal  from  the  acid. 

8 — The  battery  must  be  secured  firmly 
in  place,  and  if  the  holddowns  are  loose, 
tighten  them,  as  a  loose  battery  will 
shift  and  jump  around  breaking  the  con- 
nections or  damaging  the  insulation. 

9 — A  voltmeter  test  of  the  cells  should 
show  2.2  volts  for  each  cell,  or  6.6  volts 
for  the  three  cells  if  the  battery  is  fully 
charged.  If  the  battery  is  discharged 
this  voltage  will  drop  to  1.75  volts  per 
cell,  or  5.25  volts  for  the  three  cells.  The 
voltmeter  reading  is  not  as  reliable  or 
as  accurate  as  the  hydrometer  for  test- 
ing the  condition  of  the  battery,  but  it 
can  be  used  as  a  check, 


212 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


Never  connect  an  ammeter  in  circuit 
directly  with  the  battery,  as  this  will 
burn  out  the  instrument  or  heat  it  so 
badly  that  it  will  be  useless.  It  also 
imposes  a  severe  drain  on  the  battery. 

Making  Circuit  Tests 

Where  there  is  trouble  in  the  circuit 
due  either  to  an  open  circuit  or  a  ground, 
connect  up  a  dry  cell  to  a  small  electric 
light  and  run  two  leads  off,  one  from  the 
cell  and  one  from  the  lamp.  When  these 
are  touched  together,  the  lamp  should 
light.  By  attaching  these  wires  to  two 
ice  picks,  a  simple  but  useful  test  set  is 
made  and  this  can  be  used  to  prod  all 


the  terminals  and  wiring  to  locate  the 
trouble. 

If  the  lamp  fails  to  light  when  the  test 
points  are  placed  at  the  terminals  where 
there  is  supposed  to  be  a  complete  cir- 
cuit, there  must  be  an  interruption  of 
some  kind  and  by  getting  down  closer 
with  the  test,  the  exact  point  can  be 
located. 

In  the  case  of  'a  ground,  the  battery 
will  most  likely  be  discharged  when  the 
car  is  brought  into  the  shop  and  the  bat- 
tery terminal  should  be  disconnected  im- 
mediately to  prevent  further  damage. 
The  wiring  can  then  be  tested  out  at 
leisure,  making  use  of  the  wiring  dia- 
grams in  discovering  the  faults. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 


Reading  Wiring  Diagrams,  with  Blueprints  of  25  Internal  and 
External  Circuits  Used  on  Ford  Cars 


EVERY  car,  every  individual  elec- 
trical system  and  every  unit  of  a 
system  will  vary  from  other  cars, 
systems  and  parts  of  systems  in  some 
details.  The  terminals  come  in  different 
places,  the  terminals  vary  in  number  and 
the  wires  go  in  different  directions.  In 
order  that  the  mechanic  who  is  working 
on  the  car  may  understand  very  clearly 
just  what  he  is  doing,  it  is  convenient  to 
have  a  wiring  diagram  of  the  particular 
installation  he  is  working  on.  This  simply 
consists  of  a  series  of  lines,  each  of  which 
indicates  a  particular  wire.  Most  of  the 
units  are  conventionally  represented  so 
that  by  tracing  the  lines  out  with  a  pencil 
on  the  paper  he  can  see  where  the  wires 
start  from  and  where  they  go  to. 

Every  standard  starting,  lighting  and 
ignition  system  must  include  the  four 
following  component  parts: 


1 — Generator. 

2 — Storage  battery. 

3 — Starting  motor. 

4 — Spark  plugs. 

The  generator  is  mechanically  con- 
nected to  the  engine  in  such  a  way  that 
all  the  time  the  engine  is  running,  the 
generator  is  generating  current  which  is 
used  to  charge  the  battery. 

The  storage  battery  serves  as  a  means 
of  storing  up  energy  while  it  is  available 
from  the  generator  and  then  delivering  it 
at  such  time  as  the  generator  may  not  be 
running. 

The  starting  motor  is  a  simple  electric 
motor  with  windings  especially  adapted 
to  the  low  voltage,  high  amperage  cur- 
rent from  the  storage  battery. 

The  ignition  device  transforms  the 
electrical  energy  which  is  supplied  by  the 
battery,  magneto,  dry  batteries  or  gen- 


213 


214 


MODERN    METHODS    OF    FORD    REPAIRING 


erator  into  heat  energy  or  spark  which  is 
arranged  to  take  place  in  the  interior  of 
the  cylinder. 

In  addition  to  the  units  thus  briefly 
described,  there  are  any  number  of  ad- 
ditional parts  required  to  make  all  these 
perform  their  proper  functions  at  the 
proper  time.  Some  of  these  are  wire, 
switches,  connectors,  ammeters,  volt- 
meters, fuses,  circuit  breakers,  auto- 
matic current  and  voltage  regulators, 
lamps,  sockets,  etc. 

In  the  blueprint  section  of  this  book  are 
a  number  of  wiring  diagrams  of  different 
systems  that  have  been  adapted  for  use 
especially  on  the  Ford  car.  Such  dia- 
grams permit  the  circuits  to  be  traced 
much  more  easily  than  on  the  actual  wir- 
ing of  the  car.  Consequently  the  ability 
to  read  a  wiring  diagram  is  essential  in 
locating  troubles  in  circuits. 

Certain  conventional  symbols  have 
come  to  be  used  almost  universally  in 
wiring  diagrams  to  represent  the  differ- 
ent pieces  of  apparatus  and  their  connec- 


tions. These  are  really  shorthand 
pictures  of  the  thing  represented.  They 
are  not  all  standard,  but  some  of  them, 
such  as  the  ground  connection  and  the 
battery,  are  standard.  Lamps,  for  ex- 
ample, may  be  represented  by  a  circle,  a 
bulb  or  the  complete  lamp  assembly.  The 
most  usual  symbols  are  shown  on  the 
page  plate  opposite. 

In  reading  a  wiring  diagram,  start  to 
trace  from  some  particular  point  and  go 
through  all  the  wiring  till  you  get  back 
to  the  point  where  you  started.  A  com- 
plete circuit  comes  back  to  the  same  place 
where  it  started,  if  it  can  be  said  to  start 
any  particular  place.  If  there  is  any 
break  in  this  circuit  it  must  be  in  the 
nature  of  some  piece  of  appartus  that  is 
capable  of  being  closed  at  the  proper 
time,  such  as  a  switch  or  a  commutator. 
In  most  of  the  starting  and  lighting  dia- 
grams there  will  be  at  least  a  half  dozen 
separate  and  distinct  circuits.  Some  of 
these  will  be  entirely  separate  and  dis- 
tinct from  the  others,  and  in  some  cases 
two  or  more  circuits  will  use  a  common 


READING  WIRING  DIAGRAMS 


215 


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216 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


wire.  A  little  practice  in  tracing  these 
things  out  will  enable  the  mechanic  to 
easily  solve  the  problems  of  ignition 
wiring. 

Most  all  diagrams  that  include 
switches,  show  the  switches  open,  so  that 
in  tracing  these  wires,  it  is  necessary  to 
assume  the  switches  closed  and  to  jump 
these  connections. 

One  thing  that  usually  causes  a  lot  of 


trouble  to  those  unused  to  reading  wiring 
diagrams  is  the  fact  that  the  diagram 
does  not  usually  show  the  parts  in  their 
relative  positions  that  they  occupy  in  the 
chassis.  This  is  usually  done  to  simplify 
the  wiring  lines  so  there  will  be  the  few- 
est possible  number  of  lines  and  crosses 
to  get  from  one  part  to  another.  Need- 
less to  say,  if  the  parts  are  recognized, 
there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  tracing  out 
the  circuits, 


READING  WIRING  DIAGRAMS       — 
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GENEMOTOR    STARTING    AND    LIGHTING    SYSTEM    WITH    CHAIN    DRIVE 


Index 


PAGE 

Acids,  soldering 168 

Aligning  connecting  rod 59 

Alignment  jig,  connecting  rod 59 

—  Front  wheel 185 

Arbor  press 99, 100 

—  press  tools,  transmission 98 

Assembly  of  engine  and  transmission.  128 

—  of  transmission  drums 102 

Atwater-Kent     ignition     system    for 

Ford 217 

Automatic  switch,  magnet  tester 83 

Axle,  front,  assembly 175 

— ,  — ,  straightening 184 

—  shaft,  broken 196 

B 

Babbitt,  melting 46 

Babbitting  bearings 46 

Ball  caps,  steering  gear 199 

—  race  reamer,  inner  and  outer 182 

Balls,  front  wheel 180 

Bands,  transmission 107 

Bar,  front  axle  bending 184 

Battery,  care  and  maintenance 209 

Bearing  adjustment,  front  wheel 180 

— ,  caps,  burning  in 74 

— ,  knocks 160 


Bearing,  races 180 

—  rock,  burning  in 74 

Bearings,  blow  holes 47 

— ,  burning  in 68 

— ,  main 41 

— ,  reaming 48 

— ,  scraping 48 

Bench,  rear  axle 189 

Bending  bar,  front  axle 184 

,  timer  rod 148 

—  tool,  connecting  rod 59 

Blow  holes,  bearing 47 

Bolt,  spindle 182 

Bore,  micrometer  measurement 52 

Boring  mill 49 

—  tool,  cylinder 51 

Bosch  DU4  gear  driven  magneto  for 

Ford    218 

Boxes,  junk  and  salvage 14 

Brake,  adjustment 138 

— ,  ratchet  wrench 138 

—  shoes,  worn 195 

Brake-drum  bushing  driver 98 

Brazing  crankcase  arms 114 

Burning-in  bearings 68 

— ,  cool  cap 77 

— ,  machine 73,  69 

— ,  —  clutch 78 

— ,  — ,  driving  head 76 


241 


242 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Burning-in,  machine,  power  required.   69 

— ,  — ,  pulleys    79 

— ,  — -,  speed 69 

— ,  time  required 68,  76 

Bushing  reamer,  spring 182 

Bushing,  starting  crank 114 

Bushings,  camshaft 112 

— ,  piston  pin 57 

— ,  spindle 180, 182 

— ,  steering  connecting .* 185 

— ,  transmission 99 

— ,  triple  gear 99 


Camshaft,  aligning 112, 113 

—  bushing  reamer 112 

—  bushings,  replacing 112 

—  testing 112, 113 

Carbon,  removal  from  ring  grooves ...  66 

Carbureter,  adjusting 116, 118, 126 

— ,  float  clearance 127 

— ,  — gage    119,  120 

— ,  gasoline  level 120, 127 

— ,  Holley  (float) 119, 120 

— ,  inlet  needle  seat  tool 122 

— ,  Kingston  float 127 

— ,  low  speed  hole 125 

— , tube 124 

— ,  needle  valve 126 


Carbureter,  straightening  tube 124 

— ,  throttle  plate 126 

— ,  — rod    126 

Cashier,  duties  of 12 

Charging  indicator  operation 207 

Claim  check 9 

Clamping  device,  drum 102, 103 

Clearance,  piston 56 

Clutch  adjustment 106 

— ,  burning-in  machine 78 

—  disks,  assembly 105 

,  examination   99 

—  neutral  for  testing 158 

—  push  ring 105 

—  ratchet  wrench 138 

—  release  ring 108 

—  shaft 108 

—  shift 105 

—  spring 105 

Coil  box 139 

—  unit  testing  machine 142, 143 

terminals,  testing 145 

—  units 139 

,  testing 91 

,  —  and  adjusting 143 

,  wet   144 

Coils  engine  testing  set 155 

—  magneto,  repairing 94 

,  testing,, , 92 


INDEX 


243 


Commutator  (See  Timer) 146 

Compression,  loss  of 161 

Condenser,  punctured 144 

Connecting  rod,  aligning 59 

alignment  jig 59 

,  bending  tool 59 

— ,  —  bearing  caps,  marking 39 

—  bearings,  burning-in 68,  80 

Cotter  pin  box 28 

Crankcase  arms,  brazing 114 

—  bolts,  removing 39 

—  nose 129 

—  testing 115 

—  and  transmission  cover  assembly.  .136 
—  and  transmission  cover  gaskets . . .  136 

Crank  handle,  loose 129 

,  ratchet 129 

Crankshaft  endplay 128 

— ,  press   44 

— ,  straightening 43 

— ,  testing 43 

— ,  testing  gage 44 

Cut-out   operation 207 

Cylinder  block  clamps 36 

,  rebabbitting  46 

stand   40,  41 

— ,  crack  in 161 

—  head  bolts,  removing 35 

—  head,  removing 35 


Cylinder  lap .  •  •  t » » » » » » » i » , , 55 

Cylinders,  reboring 49,  51 

D 

Department  arrangement 13 

Differential,  lubrication 193 

Disco  two  unit  starting  and  lighting 

system  for  Ford 221 

Disks,  clutch,  examining 99 

Dixie    magneto    ignition    system    for 

Ford    218 

Drive  shaft,  disassembly 191 

Driven  gear  puller  block 98 

—  gear  sleeve  bushing  reamer 97 

Driver,  brake  drum  bushing 98 

— ,  reverse  drum  bushing 98 

— ,  slow  speed  bushing 98 

Drivers  Front  Wheel  inner  ball  race .  182 
outer  ball  race 182 

—  inner  and  outer  ball  race  remover.  182 

—  spindle  arm  bushing 182 

body  bushing 183 

bracket  182 

Driving  head,  burning-in  machine ....   76 

—  plate  bushing  reamer; 97 

Drum  clamp 103 

Dust  washers,  front  wheel 179 

Dyneto  starting  and  lighting  system 

for  Ford  1913.14,,  ,.222 


244 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


E 

Electrodes,  spark  plug 146 

Engine  division  labor  charges 15 

—  lifting  tongs 38 

—  lubrication    161 

—  noises 159 

—  numbers    170 

—  pans,  removal 28 

-running-in   155,  156,  157,  159 

—  stand,  metal 34 

— ,  wood   32,  33 

—  starting  with  electric  starter 203 

—  taking  down 31 

—  test  stand 150,  156,  157 

—  testing 150 

and  running-in  stand 151 

—  tongs 29,  150 

—  and  transmission  assembly 128 

—  turning    over 134 

Eveready  starting  and  lighting  sys- 
tem for  Ford 223 

Exhaust  manifold,  removal 28 

—  pipe  for  testing  engine 154 

pack  nut 28 


Fan  belt,  taking  off 31 

—  shaft  bracket 31 

Feed  pipe,  gasoline 202 


Field  coil  assembly,  removing 38 

Fisher  starting  and  lighting  system 

for  Ford 224 

Fitting  pistons 54 

Flywheel,  removing 38 

—  stand    104 

Front  axle  assembly 175 

bending  bar 184 

stand 178 

straightening 184 

template 184 

—  end  hook 176 

—  radius  rod  ball  cap 30 

—  universal  ball  cap 96 

—  wheel,   balls 180 

ball  race  drivers 182 

—  wheels,  bearing  adjustment 180 

,  lining  up 185 

Fuel  inlet  valve,  Holley 121 


Gage,  crankshaft 44 

—  feeler  for  burning-in 74 

Gaskets,  crankcase  and  transmission 

cover 136 

Gasoline  feed  pipe 202 

— ,  for  engine  testing 155 

— ,  strainer 202 

—  tank   ,  . . 200 


INDEX 


245 


Gear  distance  ,,,,,,,,,,*.,, 47 

—  noises-timing   160 

Genemotor  starting  and  lighting  sys- 
tem with  chain  drive 226 

Genemotor  starting  and  lighting  sys- 
tem with  shaft  drive 225 

Generator,  mounting  on  engine 204 

— ,  troubles  and  remedies 205 

Gray  &  Davis  electric  starting  and 
lighting  system  for  Ford,  electro- 
magnetic regulation 229 

Gray  &  Davis  starting  and  lighting 
system  for  Ford,  third  brush  reg- 
ulation ., 228 

Grinding  bearing  caps 74 

—  compound,    cylinder 55 

,  valve 130 

H 

Heinze-Springfield  Model  33  internal 
connections 231 

Heinze-Springfield  Model  33  starting 
and  lighting  system  for  Ford, 
generator  regulation  by  bucking 
field  coil 230 

Heinze-Springfield  starting  and  light- 
ing system  with  electromagnetic 
regulation  .,,,,,,, 232 


Helper,  engine  work 25 

Holley  fuel  inlet  valve 121 

—  spray  nozzle 123 

tool 123 

Hook,  front  end 176 

Hose  clamps  removal 26 

Hub  cap  removal 177 

Hubs,  removing  from  wheels 179 


Ignition,  wiring  assembly 141 

diagram    141 

—  system  139 

—  test  coils 155 

Inlet  needle  seat  tool. 122 

Instruction  card 7,  9 

Intake  manifold,  removal 27 


Jew  socket  wrench  for  crankcase  bolts  37 

,  for  differential  flange  nuts . .  194 

Jig,  connecting  rod  aligning 59 

— ,  for  steering  gear  ball  caps .  .  198,  199 

— ,  —  transmission  band  linings 108 

— ,  triple  gear  riveting 103 

— ,  piston    57 

Junk  box , ,  .14 


246 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Kemco  starting  and  lighting  system 

for  Ford 233 

Knocks,  connecting  rod 160 

— ,  main    bearings 160 

— ,  piston    160 

L 

Labor  operations,  prices 12 

Lapping,    cylinder 55 

Leece-Neville    starting    and    lighting 

system  for  Ford 234 

Lighting  system,  care  and  repair. . .  .203 

Line  reamer,  camshaft  bushing 112 

Lining  reamer  for  spindle  bushings .  .  182 

—  up  front  wheels 185 

Low  speed  hole,  carbureter 125 

Lubrication,  engine 161 

M 

Machine,  burning-in 73 

Magneto,  Bosch  DU4  gear  driven,  for 
Ford 218 

—  clearance 128 

—  coil  support  shim 129 

—  coils,  repairing 94 

,  testing 92 

— ,  Dixie  ignition  system  for  Ford. .  .219 

— ,  testing  and  overhauling 81 

Magnet  pole  pieces* 85 


Magnets,   assembling 85 

Magnet,  assembly 88 

—  improperly    placed 87 

—  locking  wire 89 

—  polarity 86 

—  remagnetizing 85 

—  replacement  assemblies 90,  91 

—  strength    83 

—  test  weight 83,  84 

—  testing  instrument 81,  82 

Main  bearing  caps,  marking 39 

—  bearings    41 

,  burning-in 68 

,  reaming 48 

Micrometers 52,  53 

Motor,  mounting  on  Engine 204 

—  shifting  mechanism 157 

Muffler 200,  201 

N 
Needle  assembly,  carbureter 122 

—  seat  tool,   inlet 122 

North  East  binding  post  type  starting 

and  lighting  system  for  Ford . . .  236 
flexible  lead  starting  and  light- 
ing system  for  Ford 235 

starting    and    lighting    system 

for  Ford  1913-14 237 

Numbers,  engine  ,,*.»»  K 170 


INDEX 


247 


Oil,  draining 31 

—  leakage,  preventing 135 

—  level,  engine 161 

—  pipe,   removing 39 

Old  material,  disposition 13 

Open  circuit,  test  for 92 

Oversize  pistons 49 

—  piston  rings 67 

Oxy-acetylene  welding  outfit 167 


Parts  box 25 

Perspective  view  of  Gray  and  Davis 

system  on  Ford 227 

Philbrin  duplex  ignition  system  for 

Ford 219 

Pinion  gear  press,  rear  axle 191 

Piston  clearance 56 

—  jig  57 

—  pin,  bushing  reamer 58 

,  bushings 57 

,  fitting 57 

- —  ring,  groove  tool 66 

tool    64 

—  rings  fitting 63 

oversize    67 

tapered  63 

—  sticking  , , , 160 


Piston  vise. ......  ( t ..  1 1 ....... 60 

Pistons,  fitting. 54 

— ,  lapping 55 

— ,  marking   39 

— ,  oversize 49 

Planet  gear  bushing  reamer 97 

Plugs,  testing 144,  145 

Pole  pieces,  magnet 85 

Porcelain  spark  plug 146 

Porter 12 

Prices,  labor  operations 12 

Puller  block,  driven  gear 98 

— ,  rear  wheel 189 

Pulleys,  burning-in  machine 79 

Push   rods 130 

—  rod  hole  reamer 114 

R 

Races,  bearing 180 

Radiator,    draining 25 

— ,  leaks  and  causes 162 

— ,  removing 26 

— ,  repairs    168 

— ,  repair  tubes 168 

— ,  springs   169 

— ,  stay  rod  removal 26 

— ,  straightening    168 

— ,  stud  bolt  nuts,  removal 26 

— ,  testing  ,-,,-, 166 


248 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Radiator,  testing  outfit. , , 162 

— ,  test  plugs 163, 164 

— ,  testing  tank 162 

Radius  rod  ball  cap,  front 30 

,  replacement    185 

Ratchet,  crank  handle 129 

—  wrench,  clutch  and  brake 138 

Reamer,  camshaft  bearing  bushing..  114 

— ,  crankshaft  bushing 112 

— ,  driven  gear  sleeve  bushing 97 

— ,  driving  plate  bushing 97 

— ,  lining  for  spindle  bushings 182 

— ,  piston  pin  bushing 58 

— ,  planet  gear  bushing 97  . 

— ,  push  rod  hole  oversize 114 

— ,  reverse  gear  bushing 97 

— ,  slow  speed  gear  bushing 97 

— ,  spindle  bushing 179 

— ,  spring  bushing 182 

— ,  steering  bracket  bushing 130 

— ,  starting  crank  bushing 130 

— ,  transmission    97 

— ,  triple  gear  bushing 98 

— ,  valve  stem  guide 114 

Reaming  main  bearing 48 

—  trasmission  drums 101 

Rear  axle  assembly 186 

bench,   wood 189 


Rear  axle  combination  stand,  • , 193 

,  disassembly 190 

jack  and  truck 194 

overhauling  time 195 

pinion  gear  press 191 

sleeve  puller 192 

speed  wrenches 195 

Rear  end  hook 186,  188 

Rear  wheel  puller 189 

Rear  wheel  removal 177,  187 

Rebabbitting  cylinder  block 46 

Reboring  cylinders 49,  51 

Remagnetizing  magnets 85 

Removing  cylinder  head 35 

bojts 35 

—  transmission  cover 35 

—  valves 35 

Repair  order 7,  8,  9,  10 

—  tubes,    radiator 168 

Replacing  crankshaft  bushings 112 

Reverse   adjustment 138 

—  drum  bushing  driver 98 

—  gear  bushing  reamer '. .   97 

—  ratchet  wrench 138 

Rings,    piston 63 

Rivets,  triple  gear 99 

Rock,  bearing  for  burning-in 74 

Running  in  engine. ..  .155,  156,  157,  159 


INDEX 


249 


S 

Salvage  box 14 

Scraper,  bearing  cap 74 

Scraping  bearings 48 

Segregation  of  work 12 

Service  manager,  duties  of 12 

Shim,  magneto  coil  support 129 

Simms-Huff  starting  and  lighting  sys- 
tem for  Ford 238 

Shop  foreman,  duties  of 12 

Short  circuit,  test  for 94 

Slow  speed  hand  adjustment 138 

bushing  driver 98 

gear  bushing  reamer 97 

Socket    jew   wrench   for    differential 

flange  nuts 194 

Soldering    acid 168 

Spark  plug  electrodes 146 

,  gap 146 

,  porcelain  146 

,  size 146 

,  testing 144,  145,  146 

Speed  wrench,  crankcase  nut 27 

,  flange  nut 190 

,  how  to  use 37 

,  radiator  nut 26 

,  rear  axle 195 

,  torque  tub  -  retaining  nut 190 

Spindle  arm  bushing  driver 182 


Spindle  body  bushing,  ,.,,,,,•,,»,,..  180 
,  driver   182 

—  bolt  180,  182 

—  bolt   removal 181 

—  bushing  reamer 179 

Splitdorf  starting  and  lighting  system 

for  Ford 239 

Spray  nozzle,  Holley 123 

,  tool,   Holley 123 

Spring  bushing  reamer 182 

—  clutch 96 

—  repairs,  front 182 

Springs,  radiator 169 

Stand,  cylinder  block 40,  41 

— ,  engine,  metal 34 

— ,  engine  running  in  and  testing. . .  .151 

— ,  flywheel   104 

— ,  front  axle 178 

— ,  rear  axle 193 

Starting  and  lighting,  care  and  repair 

203 

—  crank  bushing 114 

—  crank  bushing  reamer 130 

—  motor,  removing 208 

Steering  bracket  bushing  reamer. . .  .130 

—  connection  bushings 185 

—  gear   197 

adjustment    200 

ball  caps,, ,,,,,,,,,,,, 199 


250 


MODERN  METHODS  OF  FORD  REPAIRING 


Steering  wheel , , 197 

removal    198 

Stock  clerk,  duties  of 12 

Strainer,  gasoline 202 

Strangling  tube,  carburetor 124 

Switch 149 

System  in  service 7, 


Taking  down  engine 41 

Tank,  gasoline 200 

Template,  front  axle 184 

Terminals,  setting  up 149 

Test  points,  ignition  system 91,  92 

Tester 12 

Testing  magnet  strength 82 

—  the  engine 150 

—  stand,  engine 157 

Timer 146,  147 

—  advance    device 161 

—  rod  bending  bar 148 

—  troubles 147 

Timing  gear  case,  removing. .  < 31 

noises    160 

— ,  valve  114 

Tongs,  engine  lifting 29,  38 

Tools,  arbor  press  for  transmission. .   98 
Torque     tube     retaining     nut     speed 

wrench    .  , . 190 


Towing  device,  broken  axle, ,,,,,,,.  196 
Transmission,  arbor  press  tools 98 

—  band  lining  jig 108 

—  bands,   assembly 107 

,  holding  jig 107 

,  lining   material 106 

,  relining   106 

—  bushings 99 

—  cover    gaskets 136 

packing 135 

removal    35 

—  drum  assembly 102 

clamps    102 

support 101 

—  overhauling    96 

—  reamers 97 

—  rebushing  drums 96 

—  turning  bar 105 

Triple  gear  bushings 99 

bushing  reamer 98 

rivets 99 

—  gears,    riveting 103 

—  gear  riveting  jig 103 

Tubes,  radiator  repair 168 

Turning  bar,  transmission 105 

U 

Units,  coil 139 

— ,  — ,  adjusting  and  testing 143 


INDEX 


251 


Universal  joint  ball  housing 30 

,  lubrication    193 


Valve  assembly 136 

—  clearance 133 

—  covers,  removing 35 

—  grinder  131,  132 

— ,  grinding  110,  130,  131 

—  grinding    compound 130 

— ,  Holley  fuel  inlet 121 

—  lifter 35 

for  grinding 133 

—  noises     160 

—  parts,  renewing 110 

— ,  removing    35 

— ,  replacing    130 

—  reseater Ill 

— ,  reseating 110,  111 

—  springs,   weak 160 

—  stem  guide  reamer 114 

— ,  test  for  leaky 161 


Valve  timing 114 

,  improper 160 

— ,  too  long 136 

Vibrator  screw,  adjusting 143 

,  repairing 143 

Vibrator-Les  ignition  system  for  Ford 

220 

Vise,  piston 60 

Voltage,  testing  machine 144 

W 

Water  connections,  removal. 26 

for  testing  engine 153,  154 

Westinghouse    starting    and    lighting 

system  for  Ford 240 

Wheel  alignment,  front 185 

Wheels    179 

— ,  assembly    180 

— ,  removing  hubs 179 

Wire,    colors 190 

Wiring  assembly 141 

Wiring  diagram 140,  141 

Wrenches,  speed,  rear  axle 195 


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